My hoses appeared to be fine also. However, when i took them off to make sure, cause i was tired of the gas smell after driving it, i found that one was indeed rotten. You you need to look real carefully. I took SHOEBOX's advice and checked the hole system. I started by checking the purge valve that tends to get stuck and then i went over the evap lines.

 

Where is the purge valve? It sounds like that could be the problem, since the code says that it's flowing during non-purge. Would I have to replace it, or could I just fix the problem? I'd like to chedck that before tearing into all the hoses.

 

The flow detector is between the purge solenoid (on the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold) and the throttle body vacuum port. It appears the detector is seeing air/vapor flow when the solenoid is supposed to be closed. That could mean the solenoid is jammed open, or you have a leak in a vacuum line between the solenoid and the detector.

 

Is the purge solenoid on top of the intake, right behind the TB? Is the valve itself located off to the passaneger side of the intake, sort of behind the alternator?

 

No... the black plastic block on top of the manifold behind the TB is the MAP sensor.

Do a search for a link to Shoebox's site.... he has labled pic's of all these parts. If you haven't seen it, its worth the time finding it.

There is a black metal bracket on the passenger SIDE of the intake, between the #4 and #6 injector bosses, that sticks out at a 45-deg angle. The solenoid is connected to the bracket, and there is also a 4-wire gray electrical connector attached to the bracket (Opti test connector). The solenoid has the line from the EEC canister attached to it... that is the "third line" in the group of fuel lines that pop out of the driver's side fender liner. The line stops in the middle of the driver's side of the intake, is attached to a steel tube U-bend, and wraps around the front of the engine to the passenger side where it connects to the solnoid. A line from the solenoid goes to the flow detector (on the passenger valve cover I think???) and then a line goes from the flow detector to the bottom vacuum tap on the passenger side of the TB.

 

EVAP diagram

Item 7 is the EVAP solenoid and item 11 is the vacuum switch ("flow detector"). What that code is telling you is the switch is detecting flow when there is not supposed to be any. Even a leaking or open vacuum hose in the EVAP system can be diagnosed as "flow". Also, if the hoses on the solenoid happened to be put on reversed, that would cause the code.

The switch was added as part of OBD-II, so the computer would know when the EVAP system was not working properly.

 

Holy crap, that's cool! Thanks. So, how would I check to see if the valve is sticking? How would I fix that? Thanks to everyone helping out!

 

If you have a vacuum pump, like a Mighty Vac, you could pull a vacuum on the hose at the TB end, and see if it holds a good vacuum. Lacking a Mighty Vac, you could, pardon the expression.... try blow or suck air through the line. Be careful... you might get a mouthful of carbon or gas. If you can pull/blow air through the line at the TB end, pull that hose off and try pulling on the hose from the sensor back to the solenoid. If you can still pull air through the hose, the solenoid is probably stuck. Or just pull the solenoid off and see if you can blow through it.

 

I have to bring this up again, because my cheap/lazy as* never fixed this.

Once again, the Trouble cose I have is ...

1441: EVAP Control System Flow During Non-Purge

I've also noticed that when I get gas, that A LOT of fumes rushes out of the tank when I take off the gas cap. With this code, and that symptom, does it seem more related to the selenoid under the hood, ot the EVAP canister or lines themselves being plugged up?