LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Problem with 160 stat install. Just cracked the bolt PICS, ideas?

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Old Jun 15, 2003 | 08:06 PM
  #61  
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I used a nut because I didn't have enough washers to do the job. It worked better than expected and the cap isn't budging. I put everything back together and went for a ride. I can't tell a bit of difference from before and I'm rather pissed about it. I expected somewhat of a lesser temperature and I'm either blind or this thing just doesn't work. Here are a couple of pictures of the temperature after letting it sit at idle for a few minutes, rather terrible results if you ask me.

Pic 1:
http://www.dakology.com/images/temp%201.JPG

Pic 2:
http://www.dakology.com/images/temp%202.JPG

This is basically the temperature before the new stat. Is something wrong with this one? So, dissapointing! This is just way too hot for comfort, what else can be done? Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 08:09 PM
  #62  
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did you bleed the air out and also

the pcm will need to be reprogrammed or a different temp switch in the water pump.
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 08:16 PM
  #63  
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what p/n thermo did you put in?

ttt
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 08:17 PM
  #64  
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I got the stat from SLP. Hypertech part # 1008, SLP part # 100224. Is the only way to reprogram my pcm by using the Power Programmer?
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 08:24 PM
  #65  
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make sure you keep all metal frags outta the t-stat hole. it could lead to overheating probs later on
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 08:24 PM
  #66  
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they sell a switch that replaces the stock one and then you dont need a program

change, it is designed to work with the 160 thermo.
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 08:25 PM
  #67  
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Re: they sell a switch that replaces the stock one and then you dont need a program

Originally posted by yorkie
change, it is designed to work with the 160 thermo.
Who's they? Where exactly do you get this?
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 08:28 PM
  #68  
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jegs

pn 533-4026 and 533-4028
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 08:30 PM
  #69  
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hypertech

makes it.
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 09:00 PM
  #70  
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It doesn't say it fits on a 95 Z. How and where do you install that? Is it completely automatic, or is there a manual option as well? Big difference from now?
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 09:15 PM
  #71  
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Originally posted by dak125
I used a nut because I didn't have enough washers to do the job. It worked better than expected and the cap isn't budging. I put everything back together and went for a ride. I can't tell a bit of difference from before and I'm rather pissed about it. I expected somewhat of a lesser temperature and I'm either blind or this thing just doesn't work. Here are a couple of pictures of the temperature after letting it sit at idle for a few minutes, rather terrible results if you ask me.

Pic 1:
http://www.dakology.com/images/temp%201.JPG

Pic 2:
http://www.dakology.com/images/temp%202.JPG

This is basically the temperature before the new stat. Is something wrong with this one? So, dissapointing! This is just way too hot for comfort, what else can be done? Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.
You should notice lower temps when there is air flow across the radiator (fans on or when cruising). At idle with the stock fan programming you will not notice a difference. It will just heat up as before because you are merely changing the opening temp of the thermostat. The difference will be when you get moving again or when the fans come on. PCM programming or a fan switch is not mandatory when you add a 160º thermostat, but is recommended if you want to keep the temps lower all the time.
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 09:39 PM
  #72  
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I knew ya'd get it out!!!!! Like I said If your gonna snap a bolt, That's the kind ya want!!! I really haven't read all the other posts, (I'm on dialup now) Will check them at the office tomorrw. but I just hopped on to check my E-Mail and I saw replies. Don't worry bout that I consider myself very mechanically inclined and I messed up one of my header bolts in my aluminum head!!! yesterday, I repaired it but It's amazing how a simple project can turn into a cluster F*@K!!
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 09:44 PM
  #73  
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You aren't kidding. Very good idea about the nuts, the guys at the hardware store were even impressed with the idea . I did notice a lower temp at cruising now that you mention it, considerable even. So, when I saw that I was thinking "wow this works real well." Then I let it idle on my driveway and it went way up. So, the easiest install way to go to get a lower temp all the time is that switch? How exactly do I about that ?
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 10:04 PM
  #74  
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as I stated

To take full advantage of the thermostat you need the fan switch or a reprogram then she will be running cooler even when not moving.

Eric
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 10:16 PM
  #75  
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Re: as I stated

Originally posted by yorkie
To take full advantage of the thermostat you need the fan switch or a reprogram then she will be running cooler even when not moving.

Eric
Alright, I'm liking the SLP version. It has a manual turn on, that from what I can tell the other does not have. Anyone know of a guide to install these? Or is it pretty basic?



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