Breaking or cross-threading fasteners is usually the first thing a novice does. Experience has a way of changing that.

 

I'm sure some guys on this board would be willing to lend a helping hand. Never underestimate the luring power of beer I'm in Toledo, OH - otherwise I'd be down with helping out. Brakes are actually pretty easy. Do you have a Chiltons or Haynes manual for your car? If not, I highly suggest the $15 or so investment. One only need one or the other, but can get both. Can be had at Meijer, Murray's, AutoZone, or pretty much anywhere else that has car parts.

 

Yeah, and I've got the scars to prove it We've all been there before. You have to start somewhere.

 

Yeah well you should see my middle finger. It feels your pain.

So on a scale of 1-10 what do you guys think the hard level of new brakes would be? 1 being the least and 10 being the worst.

Now keep in mind that it took me probably 6 hours total for me to install the Hurst (although I did have to go buy a new socket wrench set after littlerally cracking the socket in half). I'm thinking I'll just drop the $150 the guy quoted me and let them put it on. If I get this bolt out, and get a new bolt in, and this stat actually works, you guys will be on my coolest people list.

Anyone know of a good mechanic around the northern subs of Chicago? I'd much rather drop the cash on a fellow CZ28er than the tire place I was going to go to.

Also, the one thing I'm somewhat good at about the car is cleaning it (at least IMO). Here's the most recent photo shoot if anyone is curious:

http://www.dakology.com/images/car/

 

I don't know on a scale of 1-10, I suck at rating things like that. You have one beautiful car there, BTW. What exactly are you doing to the brakes? Just putting in new pads? Or new brakes? Pads are pretty easy. You need an allen socket on a breaker bar or an allen wrench (probably with some sort of cheater bar, i used a pipe laying around the garage on my allen wrench) to get the caliper off the rotor, and then you just pop the pads in and out. Try not to touch the friction surface with your hands. Sometimes you need to compress the brake piston with a block of wood and a c-clamp to get it back on the rotor. May sound kinda confusing, but its easy when you are looking at it. HTH

 

No Freakin way It broke while tightening with a little heat it should pop right out it can't be that far in, did you look at the pics, I think maybe the bolt was too long and bottomed out maybe used the wrong bold

 

I think brakes are out of the way for now, I really don't know what's wrong with them. I got new tires all the way around and the guy said I have 0 brakes on the rear and about 50% on the front. I'm thinking the fronts are pretty much done for now too. He quoted me $150 for the rear.

Thanks for the compliments on the car, it's my baby

 

this will help too, The heat expands the aluminum and releives pressure. Propane torch works fine.

 

What should I apply it to?

 

all around the broke bolt, but not the broken bolt, It will expand the metal around the broke bolt, then while still hot try vise grips.

 

I GOT THE SOB BOLT OUT! Pic:

http://www.dakology.com/images/removed%20bolt.JPG

I went to Ace this morning and got all the necessary hardware. My question now is about the new bolts I bought. They didn't have a bolt exactly like the old one. Here are pictures of the 2 side by side. The guy suggested using a washer to try to make it like the old one:

Pic 1:
http://www.dakology.com/images/new%20bolt%201.JPG

Pic 2:
http://www.dakology.com/images/new%20bolt%202.JPG

I talked to several people there and they told me that I could just put the new bolt in slowly and try to make sure the threading is alright. The only tap that they seemed to have was for a drill. As I mentioned earlier I don't want to use a drill. So, will these bolts work? They also have a screw of sorts that is supposed to create threads, but the guy said there's a good chance of me screwing up the threads that are already in there. Any ideas? Thanks for the nut idea btw, worked great!

 

Glad to see you got it out just becareful when putting the other one back in.

 

Using a washer should work. Just try to thread the bolt in without the washer first, going slow and making sure that its still smooth. If there are some sticky parts, you might want to consider taking a trip to Sears and buying a tap to chase the threads. Does anyone else see a problem with using a washer? I don't.

 

Thanks for your help dude! So, I should just slowly put the new bolt in and see how easily it goes in? I borrowed a nice tool set for work so now I'm pretty properly equipped.

 

I was thinking of putting the bolts in without the stat cover on first. That way I'll be able to tell what's going on a little better, I would think at least. Or would that not be good? Would I not be able to tell how far I got it in then? Also, should I use a socket wrench to put it in, or the screwdriver type wrench that you put the socket on? You guys are great btw