hey rob nice mods!

definately try the lt4 knock module i paid 38$ for it from my delco ditributor,

at least try it if it dont work. after you try it, return it and tell them you meant sensor, theyll refund yo money!

my miss is still there when hot. but damn did that part help!
two tools 4 screws and 4 seconds?

my car is basically stock.
94 TA a-4
all stock internals.
msd coil
msd wires
borla catback
vortech elbow
lt4 km
thats all folks.



------------------
94 T/A LT1 A4
SOME MODS,KINDA QUICK
times- C-YA AT THE TRACK!!

 

i have all bolt ons (defined as performance enhancing parts NOT touching oil, so no rr's and the such). just full exhaust, CAI, TB, custom tune, etc. msd wires and autolite plugs, so no similarities there either. good idea, oh well, this sucks *** still...
brian

 

Heath.
Glad to hear that KM helped you out. going to try that myself...although, trying to keep the temp under 200 doesn't really seem like a solution...you think the 160, fan switch, and coolant sensor will keep it under 200...even at stop lights??

Has anyone attached one of those real time diagnostics computers see if there's anything wierd going on???

Can we approach GM with these problems...

Cheers,
-MJ

------------------
MJ - 1995 z28 M6
Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB Shocks, K & N Filter Kit, Borla Exhaust, Ground Effects.

 

FWIW, i have a pcmforless tune and the temp guage, even after 1 hr in traffic never gets above 1/4 of the guage.......and i still have the miss. hope i didnt burst anyones bubble here.......
brian
BTW, i also have a 160 stat.

 

sleeper,
do you have the miss 1st thing in the morning?
Have you tried the Knock Module that heath was talking about?
Need to find a solution here...keep on turning down challenges...
Cheers,
-MJ

------------------
MJ - 1995 z28 M6
Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB Shocks, K & N Filter Kit, Borla Exhaust, Ground Effects.

 

**** with a capital ****

its back!! how can i put a lt4 km in and it run so sweet. for4 days and then this morning it did it all the way to work everytime i jumped on it even first thing in the AM. im going to remove and reinstall the PCM and the lt4 km. and disconect the battery again/ because thats all i did when it helped..GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrr
it really does feel like valve float??

how do i test my valve springs.????
yes im installing the 160 stat today????
cooler is better.!
fan switch next week.

man i hope it starts running smooth agAIN
before track day this saturday.

why do you guys think it went away and returned??????

could it be false knock?? the dealer says it wasnt showing any knock retard?? but they could be retarded!!! since it started after we reassembled the engine, (could we of left something loose???

yes lets contact GM HOW?


[This message has been edited by HEATH (edited August 21, 2002).]

 

Buy a Ford. I'm thinking I should have stuck with my Ponies, even if they are considerably slower it's obvious that they are more durable and more affordable. *SIGH* I hope companies start stocking more items for these cars or this could be one nightmare experience. As for your problem Heath, I have it as well but there's no way in hell that I'm doing all the stuff you did. If it doesn't fix with a tuneup, fuel filter, etc... common stuff then I'll sell the POS. No way I change cam/heads/valvetrain or any other major components just to fix a miss. Can you sense the frustration I'm having just reading this post????

 

yeah i feel ya?

but we cant give up! well figure it out one day? and when we do it will be something so f=cking simple we wont beleive it!

dont give up and dont go ford

SO WHAT DOES ANYBODY THINK ABOUT MY LAST POST

??? ANY IDEAS ???

 

Heath,
dunno how to contact GM...would imaging going through the dealer...but what's the point if they can't even figure out the problem...
This HAS to be something computer related...it's not consistent enought to be mechanical failures...this is coming from the MOST amateur shady tree mechanic in the world.

Has ANYONE attached a PCM monitor to see if there are any problems...not a code reader...but an accual monitor.

Cheers,
-MJ

------------------
MJ - 1995 z28 M6
Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB Shocks, K & N Filter Kit, Borla Exhaust, Ground Effects.

 

is there some kind of aftermarket PCM that we could try?

Cheers,
-MJ

 

the dealer used a tech 1 and tech2 on it does that what you mean?

they also replaced the pcm.

 

basically...a NON GM pcm...or non gm programming might do it too...

Trying to skim around the other camaro boards to see if anyone else has info.

Was it skipping when you first pulled out this AM? In open loop (I hope that's the right term...when the car is first started).

EDIT: are we talking just z28, or all 4th gen f-bodies...are we talking lt1s or ls1s...how far does this problem go?

Cheers,
-MJ

[This message has been edited by MJ_Z28 (edited August 21, 2002).]

 

About the 160 thermostat....... I have one... and car runs really cool most of the time (maybe too cool is not good for computer) but since the t-stat is much cooler than the stock cooling system capacity was originally designed for combined with an engines inherent ability to generate heat, it causes the thermostat to stay open virtually all of the time. this causes full coolant flow all of the time not giving the radiator time to properly cool its coolant it contains. then that coolant goes back into the motor but not all the way cooled and gets even hotter once through the motor and back into the radiator where it again isnt locked in place long enough due to the fact that the 160 just never closes. and the cycle continues. basically the same principle as a stuck open thermostat, car will run cool in nice temps and so forth, but will not build heat properly throwing off the computer with closed/open loop. and in hot temps and traffic the heating cycle begins with the radiator not able to cool the coolant properly because the coolant simply flows back into the motor before it is cooled causing a run hot condition. doesnt it make more sense to just run at a safe 180 degree t-stat closer to the original t-stat and more within the realm of the stock lt1 cooling systems capacity? maybe the cooler stats or stuck open stats are causing the computer to flip, have seen this with other cars i would rather not mention on this board.
FYI... say the stock t-stat is 192 degrees, then the coolant is supposed to be locked in the motor until the t-stat reaches 192, it then opens. then the heated 192 coolant goes into the radiator for cooling. the already cooled fluid goes into the engine. the t-stat closes and coolant again begins to heat. cycle continues.
cooler t-stats sometimes dont allow proper time in radiator for proper cooling and throw off computer.
what do you think?
Rob

 

yes it did it this morning! im not for sure if it was still in open loop or not? usually it wouldnt do it until closed loop. but today was bad , and it definately seems heat related. under 200 it was fine until this morning that is!my low rpm bog is still there also. i punch it from a dead stop and it barely ever spins it just goes (which is good but its lost power not gained traction


this is all f body prob MINE IS A 94 transam
but it is only a LT1 problem.

 

Rob,
what you're talking about makes sense...but so many people report much cooler engine temps after droping the 160...wouldn't it make the engine temp higher if the coolant wasn't cooling down in the radiator?

Just my thoughts..

Heath,
have you added any water wetter (redline stuff)??

Cheers,
-MJ