LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

please help.....have a constant miss over 5K, please read, i cant figure it out....

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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 12:10 PM
  #196  
HEATH's Avatar
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From: ARNOLD MO USA
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no where can i find some locally and how does that stuff work??????
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 12:14 PM
  #197  
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I think all of you guys need to check your wires, that's where my problem is, and also check your guys pushrods. I had a few bent ones. Also look for any vacuum leaks. Maybe you guys should do a leak down test and see what that looks like. My problem why my car is also missing is because i missed third gear really bad and over revved the motor and floated the valves and #7 exhaust valve touched. I am also in the process right now installing an AFR Rev Kit which should help also.
I'll let you know when i'm back up and running.

MODS
Fully ported heads (I DID THEM MYSELF) with
bigger valves and milled to 52cc
Thinner head gaskets for more compression
Harland Sharp 1.6 rockers
CC306 CAM & Crane Springs
58 mm throttle body
Hooker Long Tubes & custom Y-Pipe
McLeod Street Twin Clutch
Moser 12 bolt 4:10 gears
and the list goes on and on.
STOCK BOTTOM END.
Also have nitrous but have not sprayed it yet due to problems.
Went 12.2 at 113 on motor with bent exhaust valve, wires arching. Can't wait to go back and run it on motor again when problems are fixed. Definetely 11.5 @ 118mph. Then i'll spray it in the 10's
Tony
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 12:15 PM
  #198  
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MJ z28
yes it does both (cool and hot)..... pending on driving habits, vehicular movement, and atmospheric conditions(temp, elevation, etc). if everything is ideal (cool out, easy riding, or no traffic) then cooling capacity maybe able to "cycle" the coolant as it should. as conditions worsen (driving hard for a long time, outside temp increases, etc) the "cycling" may not function as it should causing a hot running motor. now this is assuming we are all working off of a stock cooling system (radiator, fans cfm, etc)
also this extreme cool is definitely good for engine performance, but not necessarily when combined with the operative temps that sensors were designed to work in. Too hot is no good in any situation.
Rob
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 01:05 PM
  #199  
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From: Northern VA
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BTW, last night I did a rev test on a hot (above 200) engine and had no skip at all...Kinda makes me think that tony might be onto something with the bent push rods.

Correct me if I'm wrong...but if it's not doing it at idle then we can rule out the spark,fuel,air mechanism right?

Cheers,
-MJ

------------------
MJ - 1995 z28 M6
Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB Shocks, K & N Filter Kit, Borla Exhaust, Ground Effects.
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 01:19 PM
  #200  
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From: boxboro, MA, USA
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to answer your questions, yes i have an LT4 KM, but it did it with the LT1 KM also. also it does this 24/7, whenever it gets that high in the rpm range...
brian
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 01:24 PM
  #201  
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hey tony what did yours do when it misses.

and why if that was my problem how is it that it only started it after i put the head and intake back together.?????


congratulations weve now got 200 posts on this freaking problem?????????????????????????

[This message has been edited by HEATH (edited August 21, 2002).]
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 01:52 PM
  #202  
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From: Fremont, CA
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So have we decided on some similarities in everyones problems? It seems to me that they are mostly heat related. I would think that an electrical component (like the coil) is getting too hot and not working right. Anything else?

Brian

------------------
Black 1994 Z28, M6 conversion complete. Eibach Pro-kit, Bilstiens, Chrome 17x11 ZR1 rims, LS1 Brake Upgrade, K&N CAI, AS&M Headers, High-flow Cat, B&B Tri-Flo W/ Quad Tips, Cutout, B&M Ripper, McLeod Street Twin, Kenny Brown DD Subframes, More to come...

There Goes the Neighborhood!!!
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 02:28 PM
  #203  
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we are still all on board with the car running all right..... up until about 4800-5100 rpm then takens a sudden fall on the face like ran out of fuel or ignition stop right? we have checked fuel pressure at ALL RPM'S, changed opti, plugs, wires, ignition coil, etc.

Heath,
Is this the same problem you are experiencing? are you saying that it never happened until you removed your heads and intake? did you use stock heads and intake when reassembling, or if anything aftermarket was used what was it? what t-stat temp are you running?
Rob
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 02:29 PM
  #204  
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From: Northern VA
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by FRDEATR:
So have we decided on some similarities in everyones problems? It seems to me that they are mostly heat related. I would think that an electrical component (like the coil) is getting too hot and not working right. Anything else?

Brian

</font>
Brian,
I believe that Heath already changed to coil...keep posting up different parts that we may look at.

Again, I'm wondering if the problem isn't accually somewhere else...I mean if I can sit there and rev. to 6000rpm all day long in neutral, why is it bogging at 5100rpm when in gear...don't get it.

EDIT: will find out when I go home if it's really heat related...I may be confused...it may be open vs. closed loop related. will post my findings when I get home.

Cheers,
-MJ

------------------
MJ - 1995 z28 M6
Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB Shocks, K & N Filter Kit, Borla Exhaust, Ground Effects.

[This message has been edited by MJ_Z28 (edited August 21, 2002).]
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 02:31 PM
  #205  
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as far as engine goes...I'm just running a k&n cai (I removed the filter and tried a run...didn't help) and a borla cat back exaust.

Strange about heath and it starting after the header work.

Cheers,
-MJ

------------------
MJ - 1995 z28 M6
Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB Shocks, K & N Filter Kit, Borla Exhaust, Ground Effects.
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 03:07 PM
  #206  
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Hey guys, I now have the same problem with the high RPM stumble. I lost .4 because of it. After reading though I have come to believe that either the stock MAF cannot accurately read the increased amount of air coming though with our CAI's, or ignition not being able to keep up with the task at hand. My buddys 94 T/A lost it's high RPM hiccup with a MSD 6AL. Has anybody tried a Granetelli MAF, I heard they don't help much for HP but they could easily dissolve our problems.

------------------
1997 Camaro Z28 30th, T-Tops, Black on grey leather, T-56, CAI, Flomaster Cat-back, Airfoil, BBK Pulley, Hypertech 160 stat, SLP 1 3/4" Shorty Headers, MSD Wires, Autolite 106's, new OPTI and h2o pump
13.87 @ 101.77 w/2.24 60'
1993 Yamaha FZR 600
1995 Yamaha YZ 250
1988 Dodge Dakota
1979 Ford F-150
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 03:18 PM
  #207  
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From: Northern VA
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that could be a quick test. Anyone try to unplug the MAF sensor and going for a run? I've herd mixed reviews...about removing the MAF sensors, some say it will throw SES but still work, others say it shuts off the engine...will try tonight...

Cheers,
-MJ
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 03:19 PM
  #208  
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Brad,

I've had my problem before and after the CAI install so I don't know if that may be the problem or not. Ignition sounds right but I'm not sure. I also believe that I've lost a lot in the 1/4 et's because of this. Of course I won't know until I fix it.

------------------
94 Z28 A4 GU5
Currently in the shop
TransGo Shift Kit
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 03:23 PM
  #209  
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From: Northern VA
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anyone have an aftermarket iginition and having these probs?

Cheers,
-MJ
Old Aug 21, 2002 | 03:25 PM
  #210  
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From: Clearwater, FL
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Does anybody with this problem have a Granitelli MAF? Now that I think of it this problem started happening right after I removed my screen...I dunno, my next mod is a MSD 6AL though, maybe it will help. Then find someone with a Granitelli MAF.



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