Please help diagnose some problems
Please help diagnose some problems
Reinstalled a rebuilt LT1 into a 97 bird. Here are the issues I'm having and what I have done.
All plugs are plugged in.
Ground wires have been gone through and rechecked.
All fuses have been checked.
Battery has good power.
Motor turns over fine.
I get spark from the coil.
I do NOT hear the fuel pump come on.
I checked the wires to the fuel pump relay under the kick panel. I get power all the time to 2 wires. Only 7 volts to the plug in the back near the tank.
When I connect the battery, it seems that something is pulling a fairly good draw on it due to the small spark emmited when connecting the battery. (After rechecking, it seems it's only the headlight motors clicking)
With the key OFF I get an ABS INOP light, a CHECK GAUGES light, and a LOW OIL light.
Turning the key on, these lights go out and the normal lights come like they are supposed to.
NONE of the gauges work when the key is on.
I pulled the pcm back out to check the plugs. 1 of the pins came out of the pcm with the connector. It looked like it had kinda been burnt. I traced it and it is #C32 PCM GROUND. (With the connector unplugged, I am showing 12v at the pin location on the connector.)
I checked the entire engine harness and no wires are crimped or pinched.
Could that pin be related to the whole problem?
How would that pin have shorted?
Any help on this would be much appreciated.
All plugs are plugged in.
Ground wires have been gone through and rechecked.
All fuses have been checked.
Battery has good power.
Motor turns over fine.
I get spark from the coil.
I do NOT hear the fuel pump come on.
I checked the wires to the fuel pump relay under the kick panel. I get power all the time to 2 wires. Only 7 volts to the plug in the back near the tank.
When I connect the battery, it seems that something is pulling a fairly good draw on it due to the small spark emmited when connecting the battery. (After rechecking, it seems it's only the headlight motors clicking)
With the key OFF I get an ABS INOP light, a CHECK GAUGES light, and a LOW OIL light.
Turning the key on, these lights go out and the normal lights come like they are supposed to.
NONE of the gauges work when the key is on.
I pulled the pcm back out to check the plugs. 1 of the pins came out of the pcm with the connector. It looked like it had kinda been burnt. I traced it and it is #C32 PCM GROUND. (With the connector unplugged, I am showing 12v at the pin location on the connector.)
I checked the entire engine harness and no wires are crimped or pinched.
Could that pin be related to the whole problem?
How would that pin have shorted?
Any help on this would be much appreciated.
Last edited by Tim98TA; Jan 13, 2007 at 12:38 PM.
I pulled the pcm back out to check the plugs. 1 of the pins came out of the pcm with the connector. It looked like it had kinda been burnt. I traced it and it is #C32 PCM GROUND. (With the connector unplugged, I am showing 12v at the pin location on the connector.)
I checked the entire engine harness and no wires are crimped or pinched.
I checked the entire engine harness and no wires are crimped or pinched.
Applying 12V to the ground pin on the PCM may have done damage to the PCM that is preventing the PCM from providing the fuel pump signal.
If I read through all this correctly, I believe you are saying that a wire connected to pin C32 (PCM ground) has 12V on it, and burned off the pin in the PCM. If that's the case, you have to find out how +12V is getting into a ground wire. Something is miswired, or a 12V wire is shorted to the ground wire. The fact that you have a power draw on the battery could also indicate a wiring problem.
Applying 12V to the ground pin on the PCM may have done damage to the PCM that is preventing the PCM from providing the fuel pump signal.
Applying 12V to the ground pin on the PCM may have done damage to the PCM that is preventing the PCM from providing the fuel pump signal.
Being that I really didn't do any wiring/rewiring, I just unplugged everything, pulled the motor and put the motor back in.
The power draw on the battery, I learned, was simply the headlight motors whenever I would connect the battery.
Even with the connector, with the bad pin, unplugged, I still get the weird dash light problems.
Someone mentioned that the VATS could be my problem with the fuel pump, but doesn't the VATS disallow the engine to even be turned over?
This thing REALLY has me stumped. I have checked all my wiring 2-3 times, even looked at another LTI and verified my wires.
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