TCI

 

3-4 are gone agian just like befor so i guess ill suck it up and pull it out

 

Anyone running low 13s and faster should consider junking the 4L60E. The gentlemen that said his trannies will live in a 10 second car can't be telling the truth. I'm sorry for that but i have blew 3 A4's in 1 summer. Torched a yank converter, a TCI streetfighter tranny, and a stocker. Everyone I know has blew that junky tranny out at least once before. If you can get one to live in a fast car, I know it will need rebuilt after 1 summer of racing. There is not enough clutch material and the overdrive is a BIG problem too. I have experienced this many times before. Save your self the trouble and put in th350 or th400. You won't have to worry about being left at the track because of another burnt 4L60E!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I had my Automatic go out twice. The first time it was rebuilt with a shift kit. The car shifted so hard it tore everything inside. It was way too radical for that tranny. I saved my money and changed out the auto Tranny for a Manual 6 SPD. The cool thing about it is Chevy did all the work. Installed new harness's, peddal installation, clutch, shifter.......It was very nice when it was all done. The manual tranny was able to handle the power a lot better.

 

As far as I know Carl Rossler builds very good transmissions.
The T-G kits modify the 2-4 servo that simply doesn't work, and contributes to 2-4 band failure. From what I've seen about their 3-4 clutch pack arrangement they tell you to reinstall the "load release" springs in the input drum. As a matter of fact they give you a few sets in the kit. GM originally installed to keep the top and bottom pressure plates in the 3-4's seperated by spring pressure to keep the clutches from dragging due to centrifical force. The problem is, they reduce the holding power of the clutch pack because it doesn't have enough clamping pressure. The best way to set a 3-4 clutch pack up is to throw away the original "load release" springs that cam in the trans...And not use ANY at all! I use (6) .079" 700 style steels and (7) frictions. The stock 4L60E uses (5) .105" steels and (6) frictions. I stay away from some of the Alto kits that use .059" steels. Yes, they do allow more frictions in the pack, but a steel acts as a heat sink to soak up heat in the pack. .059" steels have a tendancy to warp because they can't handle the heat. I use Raybestos "Blue" frictions in the racing units, and Borg Warner "Tans" in all others. Alto makes a great "Wide" 2-4 band that has more surface area for more holding power. They come in Red lining and Kevlar. I don't use the Kevlar! The lining is too hard and it burns up too quick. Cltch clearance is very importantin a racing trans. also.

As for a shift kit I recommend? Good question. I use parts from a few different manufactuerers, such as Sonnax, Fairbanks, and Superior. Mostly I do alot of mods that are free. In reality, you can buy the parts to do a shift kit for around $50.
The 700/4L60E suffers from high RPM pressure loss. An Art Carr or Sonnax pump slide spring will help solve that problem, but you need to pull the pump to install one. A Sonnax .500" pressure boost valve and sleeve will help boost pressure. Throw away the 2nd gear check ball. block the 4th accumulator. Use either a Corvette 2-4 servo or a Fairbanks billet 2-4 servo. The fairbanks unit will make the shifts really obnoxious. If you plan on using a Billet servo make sure you have a good 2-4 band with a H/D anchor. They apply the band so harshly that it'll rip a stamped anchor out. Also, if you use a billet servo, leave the 2nd ball in! If you use the factory Vette servo, you can block the 2nd accumulator. You'll need to drilll a few holes in the seperator plate. You'll also want to throw away the SKF input sprag element, and replace it with a Borg Warner late 700 style. The SKF sprag has a single cage as opposed to a dual cage BW. The SKF's were prone to rolling.

So, you see...There's more to making a trans. work than just installing a shift kit, but in all actuality you're better off without a kit than you are with a "Trans-Stop". If you absolutely need a "kit in a box" try Sonnax Ind, or Superior.

Frank

 

My 700 has lasted over 2 years in a 12.82 second car! Dirks 4L60E has lasted 2 seasons in a 11.2 second car! Both cars have over 150 passes on them, as well as street driving. You remember street driving right? Something 4th gear comes in very handy for. I like cruising @ 2200 RPMs in 4th gear @ 60 MPH...With 4.10 gears!
Yes, I can build them to last! Don't make a comment you can't back up. I know I can provide proof of what I claim.

BTW, my '93 will be in the high 10's this year with the 700 in it. Wanna come to Maryland and be amazed?

Frank

 

Be amazed that it blows up or that it holds up

 

12SCNDZ

thanks for the imput but have one more ? for you.
What needs to be replaced when you blow the clutches in the low rollers i have no manual holding in 1st -third but the trans works splended in drive and dose not silp. The temp is even ok and has about 10k on it since lost them

any imput would be very helpfull
as well
is there a complete rebuild kit or do you just put one togeather as a hogg pogg of different parts

 

The guy that did my trans removed the springs and it caused it to go out 4 times. He put in stronger springs on the last and it works great now. With the trans go, billet servos, kevlar clutches and what ever the hell else he did the thing is awesome. The shifts are so hard before I got the cam in it would under 1/4 throttle bark them into 2nd and under WOT it would chirp them in 3rd and kick the car out sideways from 1 to 2. He took care of me good and I only paid for the first rebuild.

 

Im here to back up Frank's claims about the trans holding. 2 years and at LEAST 35-40 bottles of nitrous,plus miles of street duty,and the Trans is showing no signs of letting me down.

For those that say anyone running quicker then 13's should junk the OD,you need to find a better builder.

I also was sceptical about the 4l60e lasting through what i was putting it through,and Frank said he could build it and make it last,i took the gamble,and it paid off.

Hell,yesterday i put 300 miles on the car,and not so much as any hint of slipping or not shifting right.

Frank has listed ALL the parts he used in my trans before,it's not a secret,try a search.

 

Good to know a decent OD auto could be built with the 4L60!. The TH400+Gear Vendors is damned heavy and $$$$$!

Thanks for the info, Frank. I may be sending some people your way. Best to contact you via email?

Rich Krause

 

I am another person that does beleive what Frank says. I've read a lot of his threads, including the one in which he lists all the parts that he uses in his racing transmissions. I am confidant that he knows what he's talking about and if I had the money, I would have him rebuild mine without a hesitation!! Then at least I know that it would finally last more than a couple thousand miles. I'm that confident in his work even though i've never seen it personally. However, as everyone knows, word of mouth means a lot as far as a good rep goes. Frank has a great reputation and he does know what he's talking about, no question!

-Rick

 

I can't understand what happened to my Transmission.

I have no 3rd, no 4th, and no reverse. We installed a Trans Go Shift kit in it and it ran fine for a day. Now it's sitting at a Transmission shop. In my opinion it should be sitting in a junkyard.

Can somebody give me some advice?

 

This sounds like another case of the transgo shift kit. Hey at least your car is sittin at a trans shop, mine is just sittin in my driveway broke . Since you live in PA your not too far from Frank! I would send it over to him to get rebuilt, this way you know it'll be done right.

-Rick

 

some people say they are strong, but my personal experience has been: 6 dead 4L60E, I have a T-56 in the car now.

There might be ways to make them strong, but obviously nobody around me knows how