Am I the only one who went with a Milodon pan, saved 150.00 bucks, and didn't have to clearance anything?

 

Gonna to have to say, ya....DynoTech did do some of the work. The same mechanic is now at RPM.

Really don't believe that had anything to do with it as it happened when they did the work, I did the work and even Jordon Musser did the work. None of us could get them to live and even the guy whom I sold one of my old solid roller cams to had issues.

After going with a hyraulic cam, I've not had problem one that was related to lifter breakage. Nada!! Only premature spring wear due to running higher lifts and think I've got that handled.

Normally shift 7200 rpm so hydraulics seem to not be an issue and I've yet seem any objective evidence that solid rollers when comparing apples to apples makes more power. Wish someone would show some.

 

I pinged it with a normal hammer to flatten that area. It doesn't interfere by much. On your setup I would highly recommend putting on an old oil pan gasket, put your canton pan on, tighten to spec. Then rotate the crank slowly, checking for binding or clunking noises indicating interference. If you hear any, take the pan off, put some assembly/cam lube on the counterweights, torque the pan down again, spin the crank again. When you pull off the pan, you should be able to see the dark cam lube on the interfering points.
Good luck,
Dave

 

What length pushrods are you guys running with solid rollers? I know mine maybe different but I am just wondeing about what length I will need. I have the tool to check it and I finally have all the parts to put my Lloyd Elliott package together in the next couple weeks. I have all the parts that Brett listed and will be running T&D shaftmount rockers also. Later Clint

 

Using the Manley tool and the adjustable pushrod kit from CC, my measured length was 7.825, right in the middle of the TFS offerings of 7.80 -7.90. I went with the 7.9's. Where did you find/buy the shaftmounted rockers? I bought the CCProComs under the delusion that they would bolt on with no mod's for the Solid Roller springs of 1.550 diameter. That was incorrect. I had to remove a substantial amount of metal to make them NOT bind.

 

Thanks for the info, Hopefully it's not that bad and it will clearance with ease.

 

Well I bought the T&D shaft rockers and don't know if they will fit w/o any mods but just putting them on the heads they look like they fit perfectly. I was thinking the pushrods would be 7.8-7.9" in length but I will check it out with my Trickflow tool once I get the heads on the shortblock later this week. Thanks Clint

 

Are you guys using regular hardened pushrods with your setups?.

 

My pushrods ended up at 7.850"

No they are not just a hardened PR. I am running Manton 3/8" series 5 pushrods. Expensive but I am much more comfortable with them over any less expensive 5/16" PR

 

Wow, those are some THICK PR you got there. Where did you pick those up and how high are you spinning the motor?

 

Mantonpushrods.com

They were $240 but well worth it. I'm going to run the stock ecm so I guess 7200 is all it will go. But the cam would love to run at 8000+ if I let it. Kind of forces me to be a little easier on the bottom end too. I havent fired this motor yet. Its not even back in teh car to be honest. The wife and i had a little boy last month so things have been on tempoary hold for a bit. I hope to put the motor back in soon.

 

Flew to Houston, assembled my 383 LT1 Solid Roller Long Block, installed it in my '96 and drove her home to Upstate New York. Here's a 5m .avi of her at idle...
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/solidroller96.avi

 

Mine will be:
Isky (not positively sure) springs
Ti retainers
Isky RedZone lifters
Chromoly one piece 5/16 pushrods .080 wall... probably around 6.125" length.
CC HiTech rockers
7/16 studs and LPE guideplates

 

Bump for anyone else with new motors/updates!

 

I'm definitely going to an SR next season (I think my current HR on a 113 LSA is really holding my car back). I’ll probably go with a Comp custom grind on a small base-circle with something along these lines; 108 LSA, Int/Ext duration around 250s/260s and lift at the valves in the .630” to .650” range.

I haven’t selected all the valve-train components yet, but when Lloyd Elliot reworks my AFR-195s during the off-season, I’ll probably go with new 2.050” intakes and the .100” longer valve stems. I have Jesel Sportsman shaft rockers and they came with the .100” spacers. Also, I haven’t decided which SR lifters to use.

WD