LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

OMG Cant Drive Car!!!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 28, 2003 | 01:49 AM
  #16  
anasazi's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,604
From: Milton, FL
Originally posted by JulietZ28
but i have no power loss. if i had a blown head gasket wouldnt i loose compression in 1 or more cylinders?
its something simple, bleed the system, run it without a thermostat one time just to see if that fixed it, check to make sure the coolant is being circulated, check simple stuff first.
Old Mar 28, 2003 | 05:11 AM
  #17  
94F1Z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 208
From: Gordonsville,New Brunswick,Canada
Originally posted by carnutz
Guys think about it!!!! I have seen this many times, pushing coolant out the over flow and the heater doesnt blow hot. Sounds like a classic head gasket, compression in the cooling system, sounds like time to some serious investagating. Maybe I'm way off but those are 2 major sighns.
I agree because i have had this problem on a couple of different cars.
Old Mar 28, 2003 | 02:54 PM
  #18  
JulietZ28's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 39
ok guys new development. Im replacing the 160 thermo with a new one just to be sure its not that, and my old 160* has 3 prongs on the top and my new one has 2 WTF which one is the real 160? could this be part of my problem??
Old Mar 28, 2003 | 03:13 PM
  #19  
TheHeadFL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 464
From: Orlando, FL
Sounds like a Small Block Chevy thermo maybe?
Old Mar 28, 2003 | 04:05 PM
  #20  
shoebox's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 27,728
From: Little Rock, AR
Prongs don't matter, just make sure it is a long thermostat designed for the LT1.
Old Mar 28, 2003 | 04:09 PM
  #21  
My95Z's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 258
From: Minnesota
make a manual fan switch, someone probably already said theis but I am do lazy to read all the posts
Old Apr 1, 2003 | 10:08 AM
  #22  
JulietZ28's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 39
ok so i took it into the shop and told them it was either a clogged heatercore or a headgasket/ cracked head. And they couldnt get it to overheat I picked it up today and the heater blows hot air and it runs fine. Now i dont know when its gonna leave me stranded again. Guys plz help. What can i do??

Oh yeah, the fans are on. I checked a couple days back when it was overheating bad and the fans were on full blast.
Old Apr 1, 2003 | 10:53 AM
  #23  
RENE95Z's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 493
From: North Augusta, S.C.
I'm with Shoebox on this one, you probably had an air pocket in there that was giving you the problem. I experienced the same thing when I was flushing the system and didn't know anything about the bleeder valves at the time. Car got real hot real quick. Thought it was the thermostat so I replaced it. Found out about the bleeder valves and no more problem. At least I know I have a new thermostat now.
Old Apr 1, 2003 | 11:54 PM
  #24  
jwar19's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 85
From: Cali
I've yet to bleed the system on my car, so I have to do it. Before I do, are there any precautions I need to take? Do I bleed it with the car running or while the engine is off?

Last edited by jwar19; Apr 2, 2003 at 12:00 AM.
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 12:04 AM
  #25  
Kain's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 708
From: St. Louis, MO
Originally posted by jwar19
I've yet to bleed the system on my car, so I have to do it. Before I do, are there any precautions I need to take? Do I bleed it with the car running or while the engine is off?
Running and hot. Bleed it from the two little screws between the water pump and radiator on different tubes.
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 12:36 AM
  #26  
Lost's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 389
From: Palmetto FL/Tallahassee FL
Originally posted by Kain
Running and hot. Bleed it from the two little screws between the water pump and radiator on different tubes.
Overflow tank should be full, radiator cap securely on.. car at operating temp.. then open the bleeder valves and wait for all air to exit the system.

NOTE: stuff some rags around to keep any coolant from running down onto the opti! GM sure did a great job placing a water sensitive sensor right below the water pump
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 03:00 AM
  #27  
chasmanz28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,574
From: PA
Originally posted by Lost
Overflow tank should be full, radiator cap securely on.. car at operating temp.. then open the bleeder valves and wait for all air to exit the system.

NOTE: stuff some rags around to keep any coolant from running down onto the opti! GM sure did a great job placing a water sensitive sensor right below the water pump
could be air in the system if its not bleeded right it will do that
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Noenav
Cars For Sale
2
Mar 1, 2019 07:38 AM
SpeedJunkee
Parts For Sale
0
Dec 9, 2014 10:17 PM
Ricardo
Computer Diagnostics and Tuning
0
Nov 29, 2014 10:58 AM
USAirman93
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
4
Nov 24, 2014 03:37 PM
BIGCOWL-IMP
Midwest
0
Nov 21, 2014 09:40 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:59 AM.