Ohhh the PROBLEMS 93lt1 electric/charging/security
Ohhh the PROBLEMS 93lt1 electric/charging/security
So I had issues with car and alternator was replaced. Since then purchased one from other member and got it installed. Then my ignition wouldnt turn it over after it cranked fine several times...mechanic replaced the module on top of right side of intake..oddly the one taken off car was ultimately one put back on car (Im going by part numbers as I take photos if everything to help me understand with it all...an adhd/ocd thing lmao) anyhow this morn at 8am the horn starts blowing and wont stop until I go out and move steering wheel up n down. My 86 yr old Daddy just passed away and Ive been running in circles trying to do everything and need the short of it all...
A toggle switch was tied in for 2ndary fan by prior mechanic...looks like small yellow wire from harness to back of stereo(which isnt orig but installed in 1996 by local pro shop with no issues until yr before last) The wires to toggle were “circle circuited” to relay in box under hood and tied into wiring right before fan on drivers side. The fuse it was drawing hot power from was 20 amp that seems not for fans. There is NO fuse in panel on side of dash to ACC,a 3A in there for ignition on top where it should and checked all of these and found no blown fuses...all relays are correct under hood in that box as are fuses and none blown...if someone had put or started to put a remote start on this car would the outer plug under dash to the gas pedal be unplugged? Is there an aftermarket relay or sensor that could be causing an issue? This time I had to have new AC line,condenser and all installed..I know there is an O2sensor and the knock sensor that tie together,but should be grounded like possibly causing mimic Optispark failure if not. Know its a ton of questions in one post and Im super sorry. Im afraid something is ungrounded and is causing all this to go haywire...a “hot” wire supposedly to my ac compressor is alligator clipped on another set of wires,but dont actually have power unless you clip it to battery...so how is my ac compressor working without “hot” power to it then?? Im freaked out as I got this car in 93 with only 19k miles on it and dont want entire wiring or car to burn up! Can anyone give me the part # for the ignition piece I referenced... Ive got 599 8A22 stamped on the underside that fits to the top of motor against the piece already there.
Thanks yall Im struggling here with losing my Daddy last week and then the car he and Ive always owned together being the source of this post. I need to make sure its fixed correctly.
A toggle switch was tied in for 2ndary fan by prior mechanic...looks like small yellow wire from harness to back of stereo(which isnt orig but installed in 1996 by local pro shop with no issues until yr before last) The wires to toggle were “circle circuited” to relay in box under hood and tied into wiring right before fan on drivers side. The fuse it was drawing hot power from was 20 amp that seems not for fans. There is NO fuse in panel on side of dash to ACC,a 3A in there for ignition on top where it should and checked all of these and found no blown fuses...all relays are correct under hood in that box as are fuses and none blown...if someone had put or started to put a remote start on this car would the outer plug under dash to the gas pedal be unplugged? Is there an aftermarket relay or sensor that could be causing an issue? This time I had to have new AC line,condenser and all installed..I know there is an O2sensor and the knock sensor that tie together,but should be grounded like possibly causing mimic Optispark failure if not. Know its a ton of questions in one post and Im super sorry. Im afraid something is ungrounded and is causing all this to go haywire...a “hot” wire supposedly to my ac compressor is alligator clipped on another set of wires,but dont actually have power unless you clip it to battery...so how is my ac compressor working without “hot” power to it then?? Im freaked out as I got this car in 93 with only 19k miles on it and dont want entire wiring or car to burn up! Can anyone give me the part # for the ignition piece I referenced... Ive got 599 8A22 stamped on the underside that fits to the top of motor against the piece already there.
Thanks yall Im struggling here with losing my Daddy last week and then the car he and Ive always owned together being the source of this post. I need to make sure its fixed correctly.
Re: Ohhh the PROBLEMS 93lt1 electric/charging/security
Sorry to hear of your loss.
Lots of info.... but I think you need to break it down to individual questions, rather than lump it into one long post. It is very hard to follow your narrative. I'm sure it's not easy to deal with these problems at such an emotional, stressful time.
Let me try helping with the first one:
You indicated the following:
When you reference "top right side of intake", do you mean the passenger side of the intake?
Do you mean this piece?
http://shbox.com/1/map.jpg
If so, that is not an "ignition" piece, it's the MAP sensor, and will not prevent the engine from starting. Per Shoebox, the part # is
1993-1997 MAP Sensor - AC Delco # 213-185 GM Part #12569240
Lots of info.... but I think you need to break it down to individual questions, rather than lump it into one long post. It is very hard to follow your narrative. I'm sure it's not easy to deal with these problems at such an emotional, stressful time.
Let me try helping with the first one:
You indicated the following:
Then my ignition wouldnt turn it over after it cranked fine several times...mechanic replaced the module on top of right side of intake..oddly the one taken off car was ultimately one put back on car (Im going by part numbers as I take photos if everything to help me understand with it all...an adhd/ocd thing lmao)
Can anyone give me the part # for the ignition piece I referenced... Ive got 599 8A22 stamped on the underside that fits to the top of motor against the piece already there.
Can anyone give me the part # for the ignition piece I referenced... Ive got 599 8A22 stamped on the underside that fits to the top of motor against the piece already there.
When you reference "top right side of intake", do you mean the passenger side of the intake?
Do you mean this piece?
http://shbox.com/1/map.jpg
If so, that is not an "ignition" piece, it's the MAP sensor, and will not prevent the engine from starting. Per Shoebox, the part # is
1993-1997 MAP Sensor - AC Delco # 213-185 GM Part #12569240
Re: Ohhh the PROBLEMS 93lt1 electric/charging/security
the horn starts blowing and wont stop until I go out and move steering wheel up n down.
Download (free) the 1993 factory service manual.
http://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
The horn diagram is in part 2 of 2, page 8A-40-0
Not going to be easy to inspect that wire.
Re: Ohhh the PROBLEMS 93lt1 electric/charging/security
I know there is an O2sensor and the knock sensor that tie together,but should be grounded like possibly causing mimic Optispark failure if not.
Are you asking if this problem could be the reason the engine wouldn't "turn over" (start)?
The O2 sensor has a single purple wire that supplies 450 millivolts to the passenger side O2 sensor. The ground side of the O2 sensor circuit comes from the sensor being attached to exhaust pipe.
The knock sensor has a single dark blue wire that supplies 5 volts to the KS. The ground for the KS comes from the sensor being attached to the en gine block.
While those wires are in the same "bundle" in the wiring harness, along with the purple wire to the starter and a black ground wire from the ECM to the block, none of these wires are connected together at any point. The O2 sensor wire runs directly from the ECM to the sensor with no intermediate splices or connectors. Ditto with the KS wire... direct from the ECM to the sensor.
Are you asking if these wires were shorted together, would it somehow prevent the engine form starting, or somehow simulating a failure of the Optispark distributor? Because the answer to both of those questions would be "no". Is there some obvious damage to the harness that lead you ask the question? If not, why do you suspect the problem is related to these wires/sensors?
Re: Ohhh the PROBLEMS 93lt1 electric/charging/security
A toggle switch was tied in for 2ndary fan by prior mechanic...looks like small yellow wire from harness to back of stereo(which isnt orig but installed in 1996 by local pro shop with no issues until yr before last) The wires to toggle were “circle circuited” to relay in box under hood and tied into wiring right before fan on drivers side. The fuse it was drawing hot power from was 20 amp that seems not for fans. There is NO fuse in panel on side of dash to ACC,a 3A in there for ignition on top where it should and checked all of these and found no blown fuses...all relays are correct under hood in that box as are fuses and none blown...if someone had put or started to put a remote start on this car would the outer plug under dash to the gas pedal be unplugged? Is there an aftermarket relay or sensor that could be causing an issue?
I think this is the only part that hasn't been answered, but I can't totally understand it.
For example "would the outer plug under dash to the gas pedal be unplugged?" - not sure what plug you are asking about - there are no switches or wires related directly to the accel pedal. Or are you saying there is an unconnected harness connector near the accel pedal? There is a switch on the clutch pedal assembly that prevents the starter from engaging unless the pedal is depressed, but you indicate the starter does crank the engine, so that can't be it.
Sorting out electrical problems on a stock setup is difficult enough, but when you start introducing so many aftermarket changes and additions, it going to be almost impossible to sort out, except by someone that can physically look at the wires, switches, relays, etc. and trace down what they are connected to,
Actually, I'm not clear onn the entire problem. You say it wouldn't start after the alternator was replaced, Then the mechanic replaced some part sitting on top of the intake. Did it start after he replaced it? If not, is that why you reused the old part? And it still isn't starting? Or did I totally misunderstand your post?
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