Well, I have been without a car for 4 days now. After I changed my oil on Friday the car turned on and then cut off like a second after I started it like 3 times. Then the 4th time it started and ran great even drove it for about 3 hrs that night and started and turned it off several times. Then come Saturday I come outside to start the Z and nothing. If you didnt see my old thread I got great advice from the great Shoebox. I reallly thought the prob was the ignition switch because my car did cut off on me while driving and a few other symptoms of a broken ignition switch. ALso when I put my key inside the igniton my radio,power windows and locks still work but my fuel pump and dash lights dont come on when i twist the key. So today I busted my knuckles taken the whole steering column apart and replacing the ignition switch. I connect the connectors and guess what no nothing. Im totally stumped. my mechanic is coming over later tonight but this is really pissing me off. My Z choose the wrong time to break down especially since the motor of my Mustang is sitting on a engine stand in my mechanics garage

 

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Did you verify on the harness that none of the wires melted? I had to get a new harness to go with my switch because it melted wires. Just an Idea. Also maybe you got a bad switch? It happens... The replacement I got from BIG-A shorted out immediately after it was installed.. sometimes it wouldnt work... or wouldnt start...I got another one at the local dealership and have had ZERO problems since. Just a thought.

 

HUMMMMM... Well of the top of my head I would say the main power relay or fuse (both onder the hood) could be at fault. I would also check for faulty battery connections or loose power wires on the alternator, main power fuse box, and starter.

Problems in this area could cause the no power problem you are currently having, but would not necessarly cause the problem with it starting them dying. The only way a loose connection could cause that is if your alternator is **** up.

If all relays, fuses and power connections check out. I would get a test light and check for power at all fuses labled ECU. Almost all of these are hot all the time and all of them are hot with the ignition on.

With out looking at your car, this is about as far as I can go. If you and your mechanic can't figure it out tonite, post what you find and I'll see if I can brainstorm some more.

If you do get it running check system voltage with a digital voltmeter (the one on the dash is crap, don't trust it) and make sure it's above 13.0 VDC. Your initial problem could be a changing related.

 

I had the same symptoms in my Z. The problem ended up being that the fuel pump went. Start by checking your relays as previously stated. That is most likely your problem, but if there is no problem there, I would have a look at the fuel pump

 

not battery and fuel pump. Both brand new. Also when i twist the key no dash lights so that almost eliminates fuel pump. Brand new Walbaro 255

 

When the key is turned to the ON (RUN) position you should get power at the fuse box on numerous fuses like gauges, pcm ign and some others. If you have power going into the switch on the red wire in the blue connector, you should see power at those fuses mentioned before with the key ON.

 

UPDATE:

The Z28 lives again!! It was the Ignition Switch!! My mechanic had the magic touch to help me get the old switch out! Thanks again Shoebox for the how to chart it really helped alot! My old Ignition switch looked like someone put that b itch in a deep frier! The Z is still apart just because I found a loose hose that is spewing out coolant all over my engine bay But that will be a easy fix