im still trying to get this dang car going. its been problem after problem. my right o2 was reading really lean and i wasnt sure what it could have been so i swapped sides to see if it would follow the sensor. well then the left bank was reading lean. so i changed the sensor while ago and its still reading the same and on the scanmaster the left n right bank stuff isnt balanced on most of it. what could it be. tuning issue or something else?

 

Are the o2 readings cyling up and down? When you go WOT, do the o2 readings stay steady? Is the left side still lean even after the new 02 sensor? Try swapping the injectors from side to side and see of the lean reading follows the injectors. Are you getting a random misfire code?

 

not really it usually sits at about 400 sometimes lower. has gone all the way to 200mv. i havent been wide open yet i just got the car together and maybe put 12 miles on it. yes its still lean after the o2 sensor. the right side mv's cycles up and down. ill try the injector swap but the right side was doing the same thing before the o2 swap.

if i had it to do all over again id stay stock and get a bigger converter and fuel pump and a bigger shot of nitrous lol

 

idling it seems fine i checked vaccum n all that stuff. i cleaned the mass air. my right o2 is reading in the 9??mv's and the left one is at about 430, sometimes sitting still but goes back n forth between 430 and about 435mv.
i noticed when i was putting my o2 sensor on today that the driver side header/ypipe flange has been leaking from the black **** right there. sitting still the car idles fine and it revs up fine but driving it it runs rough. when i went to the floor with it it slowly reved and was backfiring.and the left 02 mv only went to like 534mv at wot. any ideas as to what i should try or check next?

 

ttt

 

I'm having a hard time following your description. Are you saying when you start the engine, the O2 sensors NEVER reach the point where they start to fluctuate rapidly? That they seem to stay in one position - one of the about 900+ mV, and the other one stuck around 430mV?

When you start the engine cold, they should both be around 450mV. As the engine heats up the sensors, they should start to fluctuate RAPIDLY over the full range of 0xx - 9xx mV. It they aren't, you may have a sensor heater problem and/or a sensor wiring problem. It's likely that the one that stays as 430mV is not working at all, and what the PCM is seeing is its own bias voltage. The one that goes to 900mV may have voltage leaking from one of the other wires, or voltage being induced from a nearby high voltage wire.

12 miles of on and off driving isn't enough for the PCM to develop any sort of long term fuel corrections, and if it isn't going into closed loop, they will never develop.



Describe

 

even after driving the left sensor reads the same. and its a new sensor i just put it in yesterday. the other one ranges as you said from 0mv-9??mv constantly up n down. i checked for vaccum leaks and all of the vaccum lines are connected. the only one that isnt is the one from the egr solenoid and i have it plugged off and the other one going to the intake. no leaks around the air intake or mass air. does using o2 extensions have any negative effects on the o2 sensor? im lost as to what to do i have ran datamaster on it but i dont really know what im looking at lol but i logged it anyway

 

If the sensor that never moves is new, then its a wiring problem. Yes.... your extensions could cause problems if not well constructed, or burned.