Rukee

This is getting weirder by the minute. The car starts and runs if I push start it. I had a buddy jump in and I pushed him with the 4-wheeler and he popped the clutch and it took right off. He drove it around the half little block here and shut it down cause it has no water pump on right now, he said it ran great....trying to restart with the starter after he shut it down and no-start and tries to run backwards again when you realise the key from crank. It has to be a security thing that the crank signal is controlling. There`s gotta be an answer somewere.

Guest47904

Turn the key on and leave it there. Then jump directly to the starter. A remote starter switch is good for this. And try to start it. This will bypass all the wiring and switches and see if it fires up.

Rukee

That`s an excellent idea!! Think I`ll pull the starter down and remove the one purple wire that is suppose to excite the solenoid to prevent the voltage from going through the circuit backwards from that direction. I`ll report back my findings. Thanks again for the great idea!!

Rukee

Dang it, I really thought that was going to work.
I followed the purple wire up the harness on the pass side to the top of the inner fender well and cut the wire there and ran it forward to the battery. With the key on and jumping the starter I get great spark, but still weak to no injector pulse and no-start. It doesn`t seem to want to run backwards anymore......hmm...maybe it`s seeing a signal from the VSS and that`s why it`s (the security system possibly) allowing it to run when push started??

Guest47904

If you suspect you have no injector pulse 2 things:

It would be showing a code if the PCM shut them off

Second, it should start if you squirt fuel in the intake.

Rukee

I have neither. I have no codes and fuel in the intake does nothing, no pop, no nothin(still appears to be sparking at the wrong time durring crank). But yet it runs when you push start it. Scanner tool shows injecter pulse at crank, but it reacts soo slow (even with a running engine) I`m not sure if it`s an acurate reading, but does go to zero when wide open throttle is applied while cranking. It can`t be a wiring problem like between the computer and injectors, if it runs normal when pushed, can it??

Guest47904

The only thing that makes sense to me at this point is the starter is not cranking the engine.

Remove it from the engine. I guarantee you will see something wrong with with either it or the flywheel

Rukee

I assure you the starter is turning the motor over and in the correct direction. I`ve put two in in the last couple weeks. One was just worn out from cranking so much, the second the nose cone exploded when the other guy hit the key when the motor was doing that goofy running backwards thing.
I`m thinking it must be a security thing disabling the engine from running. I mentioned this before, I see a theft deterrent module in the wiring diagram, where is it located and what kind of a signal does it send the ECM?

Guest47904

The TDM connection to the PCM is the fuel enable signal. It is a PWM signal and can be replaced.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...024&view=1&N=0

However I do not think your problem is VATs related since there is no difference between push starting and crank starting. Since your VATs did not shut down the starter in first place. The fuel and ignition effects are no different for either method. AND you never mentioned your SECURITY light blinking.

Think you're going in the wrong direction.

Rukee

The security light comes on with the key 'on' and stays lit for about 5 seconds and goes off.
If it`s not the TDM, then what`s diffrent between crank and push? The VSS with the ECM and possably the ABS module sending the wheel speed signals through the BUSS wire to the ECM are the only things I can think of. Seems like the ECM is going into a diffrent mode when the is car rolling, but why?

Guest47904

Look for the fuel enable signal. If it's there, you know the TDM is not the cause.

Ignition switch acting funky maybe

Rukee

I`ll order an ignition switch, that`s easy enough to try and report back the findings. Thanks again for the great ideas.
The hynes repair manual only gives the TDM wire as a 'blue' wire, no plug or pin location. There seem to be at least 4 blue wires going into the ecm, not knowing which one it is or what kind of a signal it should be getting, not sure what to look for. :/

*edit*
That`s why I hate these Hynes books, they give a guy JUST enough info to make him dangerous.

Rukee

I pulled the steering column down and plugged in the new switch with the same results.

Rukee

...

goblue9976

By the way, mine was doing the exact same thing and it was the opti connector that was screwed up, put a new connector on there and it was good as new.