So I started up the new motor and I'm not showing any oil pressure on the stock gauge (don't know if that's a communication problem or not) and no oil is coming from the pushrods, so I'm assuming I'm not getting any oil pressure. I've got a canton 242t oil pan and a melling high volume oil pump and about 6.5 quarts of oil in it. It's showing full on the Lokar dipstick. For the oil pump drive I've got a MSD like this.



I've got an oil feed and return for the turbo. Is there something simple I'm overlooking? I'm running the 24X coil on plug ignition and have the oil pressure sensor connected.

 

it's all mechanical so if it's bolted on the problem maybe with the gauge.

Pot a mechanical gauge on and see what happens

 

So I took the oil feed line for the turbo off and its pumping oil to the turbo. I am still seeing no oil at the pushrods though. I packed the oil pump with assembly lube when I installed it a few months ago. I'm stumped. I have cranked it enough to where I should be getting oil. How long does it usually take to get pressure on a new build?

 

Took my build about 4 or 5 minutes to get oil to the pushrods. Unfortunately most people think that oil should be gushing out of them. Truthfully you only get a trickle..and I DO mean trickle, like maybe a drop every 10 seconds or more. If you don't look close enough you won't see it. Remember you're trying to fill all of the oil passages, pump up the lifters, and fill the pushrods which are all empty - it takes awhile.

 

I'm going to try this oil pump prime tool that O'reileys has to rent, it uses compressed air to blow out the system, then I'm putting a new oil pressure sender on. Hopefully that will solve my problem.

We cranked the hell out of it and didn't see a single drop at the push rods, so I don't know if that assembly lube that I packed the oil pump with is clogging the system or whats going on. I know it won't be gushing out, but as much as we turned the motor over, I should have seen a little oil.

 

I found the problem. Turns out I was getting oil pressure all along. I thought I was since everything is gear driven and has a very low probability of failure but that slight chance had me scared. The problem was the instrument panel connector became dislodged somewhere along the way and none of the gauges or lights were working. I'm getting a solid 55psi at start up now. And finally saw some oil spurts at the pushrods when I upped the revs a little.

 

As Joe said, it takes a while. That's why you pour oil over your valvetrain before new engine startup.

 

I poured it on the drivers side valve train and into the lifter valley but didn't start it right away. On a side note, is it safe to run a mechanical oil gauge inside the passenger compartment? I got a good deal on a set of autometer gauges and could use a more accurate oil pressure gauge.

 

Oil is fine. Worst case scenario it leaks and gets oil on the interior (it will puddle, not spray). For the price though it's hard to beat the electric gauges.

 

Any time you run fluid through the firewall, IMO, is a bad idea!

 

Any pics of the engine bay?

 

Still working on it. I'm trying to figure out some stuff. I'll let you know when I get it all done though.

 

Oil is not considered "hazardous", and is not prohibited inside the passenger compartment. I've got a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and a -3AN braided S/S line that runs from the block tap above the oil filter, through the hole in the firewall that used to have the clutch master mounted through it (and is now otherwise sealed) and up to the oil pressure gauge in one of the three center dash vent holes.

Nitrous pressure gauge is similar. OK to run into the passenger compartment, as long at the connection outside the firewall is fitted with a flow restriction orifice to prevent a high flow into the interior, that would create an opaque cloud that would impede driver vision.

My fuel pressure gauge is electrical, but I did try using the AutoMeter high pressure isolator to use a mechanical gauge inside the passenger compartment, and the isolator failed, and was recalled by AutoMeter. They gave me full credit for my mechanical guage, isolator and braided SS hoses toward an electronic gauge.