LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

New LE2 355 Running Rough.

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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 04:03 PM
  #46  
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I recently got one for another build and that is accurate. I got it through a local guy though for $340, they definitely aren't $200 anymore like I used to remember.
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 06:12 PM
  #47  
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Update.

I got my new Delphi fully assembled optispark in. I also had Bryan Herter check the PCM to make sure it was OK. He ran his checks & gave it a good bill of health then sent it back to me.

I changed out the opti (MAKING SURE THAT I PUT THE CAM DOWEL IN THE CORRECT POSITION ON IT), changed out the plugs, DOUBLE CHECKED the plug wires were connected in the correct order on the opti. DOUBLE CHECKED the plug wires to make sure they were connected tightly to the Opti. Installed the PCM, double checked all wiring for tightness & correct connection. I put coolant in the car, installed the battery then decided to try to crank it up.


Same damned problem. Car will run like garbage if you modulate the accelerator but will not idle. Kept it running for maybe 30 seconds then cut the car off. I scanned the car for codes, yet again. I got a total of 5 (only 3 were unique codes.) In order on the scanner:

1. P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit.
2. P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance.
3. P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit.
4. P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance.
5. P0443 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit.


The Crankshaft position sensor is brand new. When I installed the cam & new timing chain I made sure the reluctor wheel was on correctly.

From my research, the crankshaft position sensor should not cause a performance problem but are indicative of a misfire problem which is consistent with the ****ty way this car is doing right now.

So, new AC DELCO Opti, Coil & IC module are new (module does have some rust on it now from setting outside), computer has been checked by Bryan Herter & given the OK yet It STILL will not run right.

I am totally frustrated right now & don't know where to go next.

Last edited by METALBEAST; Mar 30, 2009 at 06:52 PM.
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 06:50 PM
  #48  
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Damn dude.
If you are 100% confident that all fuel and ignition components are properly installed, it may be time to go deeper into the motor.

Did you degree the cam and what were the findings?
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 06:53 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
Damn dude.
If you are 100% confident that all fuel and ignition components are properly installed, it may be time to go deeper into the motor.

Did you degree the cam and what were the findings?
No I didn't degree the cam. Just lined up the dots.
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 07:31 PM
  #50  
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I am going to speculate that the cam is not timed correctly either as a result of cam gear to crank gear position or a defective grind. I would start degreeing that thing right now. It is now time to rule the cam out. Whatever it is, it is major and it will rear its ugly head in a big way once you find it.
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 07:49 PM
  #51  
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Post a video.
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 07:50 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
I am going to speculate that the cam is not timed correctly either as a result of cam gear to crank gear position or a defective grind. I would start degreeing that thing right now. It is now time to rule the cam out. Whatever it is, it is major and it will rear its ugly head in a big way once you find it.
Guess I really have no choice. Damn thats gonna be a PITA
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 08:04 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by METALBEAST
Guess I really have no choice. Damn thats gonna be a PITA
Its not too bad you just need the tools.
Get a degree wheel. Attach it to the front of the crank and shim it towards the front as much as it takes to keep from hitting things.

Get a dead stop that goes in the #1 spark plug hole. Turn the cranks both direction till you hit the dead stop, do the math and find TDC.

Get a lobe tool that attaches to the dial indicator so you can get your readings.

Rig up a pointer out of a coat hanger.

I dont recall the exact directions to do it, my engine builder did it and the cam was 1 degree off which is no biggie. Do a search to get the exact directions and rule the cam out.
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 08:17 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
Its not too bad you just need the tools.
Get a degree wheel. Attach it to the front of the crank and shim it towards the front as much as it takes to keep from hitting things.

Get a dead stop that goes in the #1 spark plug hole. Turn the cranks both direction till you hit the dead stop, do the math and find TDC.

Get a lobe tool that attaches to the dial indicator so you can get your readings.

Rig up a pointer out of a coat hanger.

I dont recall the exact directions to do it, my engine builder did it and the cam was 1 degree off which is no biggie. Do a search to get the exact directions and rule the cam out.
I actually bought a degree wheel but decided not to use it. Thanks for the advice man! Gonna start tearing her back down tommorrow
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 08:24 PM
  #55  
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Where are you located?
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 08:24 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by marshall93z
Post a video.
Is it smoking black when you can keep it running?
Old Mar 31, 2009 | 07:31 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
Where are you located?
Cleveland, Georgia. About 90 miles north of Atlanta. Right at the beginning of the Appalachian Mountains.
Old Mar 31, 2009 | 12:32 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by marshall93z
Post a video.
Originally Posted by marshall93z
Is it smoking black when you can keep it running?

Are you blind, or have me on ignore or something?!
Old Mar 31, 2009 | 12:39 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by marshall93z
Are you blind, or have me on ignore or something?!
Sorry bout that man. I just missed it.

My video camera is on loaner right now. No black smoke either
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 10:10 AM
  #60  
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One qucik thing to check before degreeing the cam is to make sure the pushrods are the correct length and the rockers are adjusted correctly. I had the same problem on my friend's 408 LS1 car and it turned out the builder put in a pushrod that was too long causing the valve to hang open. Same symptoms you desrcibed. We put in the correct length pushrods and the car ran great.



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