600hplt1sm

the engine builder is coming by tomorrow morning and were going to scan it. so hopefully ill find a direction to go.

95Blackhawk

Didn't read all the posts but I would take a look at the opti based on what you said. Mind did the same thing when it went out.

600hplt1sm

Wellthe engine tuner came up today and brought his laptop. He uses data master. The computer threw 2 codes. One was Hi res failure, the other was maf failure. So we changed the opti base since my cap & rotor are brand new. the base was used. Got it back together and started it up and everything sounded good. the tach wasen't jumping around like before and now the revs crisp and fast. but then it threw the maf fail code again. The previous owner spliced the maf harness to lengthen the wires so Im going to redo those and hopefully that fixes it. if not i guess the maf is bad as well. but atleast i made some big progress today and the car is driveable but ill wait to its 100% ready. I do like that data master software though.

WS6T3RROR

Datamaster isnt bad sometimes the graphical layout is nice, but i prefer looking at the hard numbers in a spreadsheet. For whatever reason i can just see stuff easier in that way for drivability tuning.

When you get the maf code is it right after you have pushed the engine kinda hard? If you're maxing out the maf iirc it will throw a code. It maxes out in the 480g/sec range I think. You should be able to cross that without much work with your setup being boosted. Just tossing an idea out there.

Most people end up abandoning the maf sensor and using some wild methods to get the thing to work right on high levels of boost.

600hplt1sm

Yea, well data master is really the first program i have seen for tuning, but im sure a hard copy would enable you to be a little more through. After we cleared it I started it again, and left it idle for a few seconds the i held the throttle @ 3000 for probaly 15 to 20 seconds and then cleared it. thats when the code came through. As for the boost. Since i now have an ati super damper, i need to get another spacer so I have the belt off the blower as of now. Im also wondering with the blower not functional right now, so i unhook the intake tube and put a cone filter right off the maf. Do you think its making a difference that all the air has to run through all the piping b4 it gets to the motor. I know with the blower hooked up it will force it, but natural thats a long way for the air to travel

WS6T3RROR

Nah with the blower off it should not max out the maf especially at 3000rpm.

Length of your intake tract wont hurt anything since you're not worried about max power should be very little loss from the tubing. Part throttle is very piddly compared to wot use. The amount of air you're flowing wouldnt cool off your pizza at low rpm and throttle.

Just as food for though. The only time I worry about intake tract length is when i have a cammed lt1 that is over 255* @ .050". In those cases the reversion from the cam will make the maf read much higher than it should and make the idle get pretty sick. So i usually move the maf farther away from the engine, and also place restriction in the map sensor to damp the pulses and keep timing more stable.

600hplt1sm

OK. so i found a tread on here about testing the MAF connector. when i connect the red lead to pink wire and the black lead to the blk/white wire with the key on and engine off I get 11.8 volts. i tried to jiggle the harness around and the voltage seemed to fluxuate. I drove the car this afternoon around the block. when i started the car i left it warm up for a minute and the AF gauge was showing 17 to --- on the display. i drove the car around the block the SES light came on for about 5 seconds and then went back out. I got the car back to the house and the AF gauge showed 13 to 14. Im assuming i have a problem with the harness to the MAF.

I have one other problem. The motor seems to sound like a distorted speaker a little. Its a little muffled up around 3000 or so rpm. My other motor was 11.8 to 1 CR, and this motor is 8.8 to 1 would that make a difference in how the motor sounds. Maybe im used to hearing the blower as well and with it not hooked up right now you dont hear the whine from it. I dont know maybe im stupid

600hplt1sm

Ok hopefully this is the last post for this thread. I think i have the maf problem pinpointed to the pigtail. I drove the car a good bit today and the SES light came on one time but then went out right away and my AF gauge was reading around 13 to 13.5 while i was on the gas & when i say on the gas im talking about 2000 rpms coming through town. When i get off the gas it reads 15 -16. What do you guys think of those AF numbers. Keep in mind this motor is in the beggining stages of break in period so there wont be any WOT AF numbers anytime soon.

And on a side note I want to thank everyone who replied to my posts, all the info given helped a great deal, & i greatly appreciate it.

WS6T3RROR

When off the gas it will usually show lean like that on any of em. If the rpms are coming down quick enough at a high enough rpm, the injectors will flat out shut off for a few ms. If it aint spitting and coughing over it I would not even give it a thought.