Keep an eye on the fuel pressure.

 

OK. I have started to change the plugs. I have 5 of the 8 done and everyone of them is black and wet. These other 3 plugs are going to be a complete PITA. I think im going to have to remove the Y pipe to get to the 2 back plugs on the driver side. Does anyone have any ideas why my AF gauge is not registering under idle. When you give a little gas it starts to register on the gauge

 

Do you have a wideband or is it one that taps into the stock sensors?

 

I have a aem wideband. I got all the plugs changed, checked the firing order and started the car and its worse than it was before, It misses, tries to stall out while idleing and it just wont rev up at all.

 

First talk to whoever did the base tune, make them go over all thier work. If nothing is found there or electrical its time to start looking into the engine, opti phasing cam out of whack rockers too tight etc.

What does your wideband say while all of this is going on?

 

ok. Realize the car hasent been driven since i got it back. The AF gauge shows about 14.7 @ startup and slowly creeps higher until it stops registering, But this is only under idle. if you try to give the gas the AF gauge will start to show a number again. but like i said the car doesnt rev at all. it sounds like it on 4 cylinders. A friend of mine said if you have a plug wire off or bad plugs that it could damage the opti. I dont know if this is true

 

I'm having very similar issues right now with my 383 build. I got great compression on all cylinders at around 220psi. I was getting a very rich condition due to leaking injectors but now that I have replaced them I'm still getting lean popping and rich conditions. I think my opti is causing a few cylinders to miss badly. I'm going to do some testing on it and get back to you. It is one part that I did not replace and sat for 8 weeks not getting used while the motor was down.

 

Yeah my cap and rotor are new, but the base is used.

 

I was thinking of swapping the cap and rotor but now I'm just thinking about dropping 3-4 hundred on a whole new unit. I hate replacing things if I'm unsure about them though since that can be expensive. I'm going to do every test necessary before I become another "must be the opti" person. I see to much false accusation everywhere on the opti.

 

I talked to the engine builder today and he was there when they first started the car. He said it reved fast and smooth, but the FP gauge said 78. The only thing i have done to the car since i got it back was adjust the FP back to a normal setting and change the plugs. The engine builder is going to make a trip to my house on thursday with his scanner and laptop to maybe diaganose the problem. Im wondering if my o2 sensors are bad

 

Well i unplugged the maf sensor today and the car reved a little better but it wanted to stall out, but didnt make a big enough difference that i thought i was on to something. One thing though, how soon after you start the car should the fans come on. My car was only running for about 25 seconds and the fans were coming on, I don't know if thats normal or not

 

Depends on engine temp and where your fans are programmed to turn on at, and if the a/c is on. Theres no time element to it.

 

the engine was cool, I have a 160* thermostat, but i don't have a/c on this car

 

with the maf unplugged the car is very hard to start. you have to give it alot of gas, & it will idle for a few swconds and shut off, so i plugged it back in. The other thing i noticed was the factory tach is way off. it jumps around like girls on trampolinesif you just qive the throttle a quick on & off the tach goes above 4000, but there no damn way the engine is at 4000.

 

Having the fans run on startup is often a sign that there is a diagnostic code set in the PCM? Is the SES light on? Have you scanned it for codes?