Ok here is what am after, I currently have a 96' Z28 w a LT1 and 65k on the clock. Car is basically stock sans trans rebuilt with good parts,small stall, cut out, cai. lt4 module, and free mods. Nitrous on just no ignition so that is on my list.

I am wanting to go fast! Don't we all lol, anyway I have had blown Stangs for the past ten years, and decided to switch back to a general ran across a great deal. Anyway my dilima is either keep the LT-1 or trade for a LS-1. I own the car I have now. I am going to compare the trade up value and mods price to decide which way to go. I want to be in the 11's low to mid.

Any suggetions on what it takes to acheive this, parts and price.

Say a Lt-1 with Strip then Street H/C and drivetrain to match vs LS-1 what is it gonna take in an LS-1 car to beat this N/A.

Thanks
Owens

 

I would go the LS1 rout. A local F-bod guy here in SC has went 11.3 with only bolt on's (The valve covers have never been off). The LS1 is just so easy to make very fast that the HP -vs- $$$ for what you want to do in the end would be cheaper going the LS1 rout Here is the sig for Silent BTW there is also another LS1 F-bod here in Charleston into the low 12's w/only bolt on's http://www.scfyb.com/forum/member.php?userid=589

 

Do you have a weight on that car? That is a big factor.

Thanks
Owens

 

I have looked around the Lt-1 stuff pretty extensive and LS-1 a bit but just wanted to have someone with experience in these to elaborate. So my searches have led me to asking some detailed questions.

Thanks for the responses so far but where are the ones running Heads cam cars? I mean cc 306 or bigger cam cars. I sahould specify the car is not my daily driver by any means. This leads to a healthy set up one way or another, how good are the AFR's any run these?

Thanks again
Owens

 

I have a LT1 383 with AFR 195's and a CC 306 and if you have an LT1 and want low 11's then get ready to drop some $$$$. I went over because I plan on sticking a good size shot on it in the near future (175) so my motor may be a bit more then some others but I got over 6k in it. The block work with the splayed mains was $600 so none of it's cheap. While I think dyno numbers don't mean all that much my car has yet to see the track so I can only give dyno results 414RWHP 412RWTQ and there is more in it and the rest of the tuning will be done at the track. I think for the same $$$ you can trade your car in for an LS1 and get enough mods to run the same ET's with a lot more potential for the future.

 

The car is light but I don't know the weight. race seat and no carpet as well as a fiberglass hood.

 

at the least,if you build the lt1 up with the good parts as spoken in previous post they should last,you go out and buy an Ls1 and make it run those times all good but you still have a stock motor as well as limits when an Ls1 blows up they spit stuff all over,now you have to build an LS1,so i think you should build what you have and make it bad! just my opinion though!

 

LS-1 will make more power because of the heads.To get an LT-1 doing the same thing you have to get heads and that alone will be $2500.00 new and ported.The intake on a LS-1 is also more suited to HP & TQ and the block is aluminum(lighter).Also their computer has a fuel table above 7200 and a built LS-1 WILL GO 8500 NO PROBLEM.Sooooooo is a hell of a choice but IMO you can go faster cheaper with an LS-1.

 

Pains me to say this, LS1

 

Depends on finding a good LS1 car. I wouldn't contemplate a swap (a transplant). But the LS1 really responds well to mild mods.

Rich