well just got my sending unit replaced and i want to be safe on the fuel pump install and what needs to be EXACTLY done!!

please let me know ASSAP!!!!

i have the walbro 255 in my broken assembly and the stock one in my new used assembly!!

THANK GOD I HAVE A WORKING GAS GAUGE!!!!!!!!!!!

 

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ight=fuel+pump

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ight=fuel+pump

That should do ya.

 

just finished doing that myself like 2 days ago. HAVE FUN! drop the tank, i could do everything but reconnect the fuel lines by going though the hatch so i ended up having to partially drop the tank anyways. it's not as much work as ppl make it seem.

nice car!
hey dude, i'll be moving down to Houston at the end of the month for school. how is it down there? all i ever hear about is how dirty it supposedly is.

 

I guess the hole method is ok. I am a little skeptical about sparks around the tank though.

i don't know why so many people bitch about dropping the rear to do it. I dropped the rear out of my car the other week in less than an hour. And put the new rear in in about the same time. Don't need to unhook the brake lines, just be carefull manuvering the calipers and stuff around after you unbolt them from the axle so you don't kink the lines up.

I did it in this order:
1) loosen lug nuts and jack the rear up just enough to take the tires off
2) Support car on blocks by the frame rail right beside the LCA mount
3) remove DS
4) support rear with jack and a block of wood
6) Unhook shocks
7) lower rear to take out springs, unhook brake calipers
8) unhook LCAs
9) unhook TA
10) unhook PR (undo this last since it'll help steady the rear while working)
11) pull the rear out, carefully moving brake calipers over axle

Reinstall in reverse of this order. With air tools you can do it in less than an hour. Maybe 15-20min longer if all by hand (however, make sure you torque all the bolts down BY HAND after using the air gun... they don't always put adequate torque on a bolt). Not sure how much longer pulling the tank out takes. Plus this way you can flush the tank while you have it out to get any debris out. Hate to have any junk in there screwing up that pretty new pump. I've never seen the inside of the Z's tank, but when i changed the FP in the GN (@ 90k miles), there was about a handful of stuff in the bottom and the FP sock was both collapsed and full of crud. It'll amaze you just how dirty gas can be even after all the refining it goes through before getting to the gas stations. My $.02

 

no i need to do the fuel pump, not the tank....

i have access from the top of my car cause i have cut a hole in it a while ago!!!

 

I understand that. Just trying to say cleaning out your tank will be a good idea while you're putting a new pump in it (if there's stuff in there, which i'm sure there will be... see my post above). Just stating my view on pulling the tank versus cutting the access hole, especially if you have a lot of miles and still running the factory pump (like mine with 113K miles). But cutting the hole would be a good idea, IMO, while the tank is out. That way you can upgrade pumps easier later, if needed, and know that your new pump is going into a clean tank.

 

noooo.....i already have my 255 walbro in my car now, i am replacing my sending unit so i can get my gas gauge working again!!!!

 

if you've already swapped out the pump why do you need to know how to take the pump out. Haven't you already done it?

 

no i had taken it to the shop for a cam and other things done, plus gears and the shop also installed my pump!!!


How do you get the pump out of the yelow housin?

 

Use a small razor knife and seperate the "lid" from the "bucket." It's only glued together.

 

if you are talking about the tan/brown bucket that goes around the pump then i don't think you need to take that off. The sending unit isn't in the pump its on the pump bracket.