True words, but the exception is wood dead blow and rubber.

But I allways clean everything thouroughly with some emerycloth and then apply anti seize, with a damener installer which is basicly a hardened steel threaded rod with a bearing, mine allways goes on without a hitch, but reiterate never hammer the hub on with a solid metal hammer.

 

Yes a deadblow hammer, block of wood etc. will protect your hub from damage. BUT, you are still pounding on the bearings. If anyone wants to argue my point try this.

When building your next shortblock, hammer the **** out of the front of the crank. Check clearances. Feel the crank shake back and forth in the block. Proceed to kick your own *** because you now know better.

 

Yep, never never hammer a crank (except on initial installation seating)

I forgot to add that to my statement, I was thinking it was explained in Lonnies post I quoted, but I didnt clarify.

 

that part doesn't work on a callies crank/ati balancer....just my .02. i guess i will be returning it! **** i can't get my balancer on! only reason i had to pull is cause of the ****ing rotor coming loose in the opti! looking at all of the different experiences i am afraid to even use threaded rod!!!

so no one makes a proper install tool at least to work on an aftermarket crank and balancer! any help is greatly appreciated! lmao!!!! don't ya just love this ****!

 

Weather or not this will work for your ati/callies set up, I do not know.

GM installation tool #j39046 Crankshaft hub remover/installer tool,

That is right out of my factory service manual.

 

thanks!
taner

 

Taner, Sorry if you bought that tool and it didn't work. You can use the same Idea to work on your application though. Take a threaded rod that fits your crank threads and place a double nut on the end where the wrench flats would be at the end of the jegs tool. Get a roller thrust bearing like on the Jegs tool but with a smaller ID to match your rod. You will also need to find or make a large flat washer that locates on the ATI, inside the ring of bolts but still has some surface area to push against the balancer. Then you need to make a spacer to go between the bearing and the washer so can put a wrench on everything and not get into the pully. Hope this helps(makes sense). Pm me if you need any help or have some questions.
James

 

What are the symptoms that damage has been done from hammering hub ?

 

I watched Mr. Golen at Golen Engine Service hit my ATI hub on with an aluminum block and hammer... He said they have always used that method without a single problem...

 

capndbol,
no problem, i returned it for a refund, i don't know where to get the thrust bearing, i know what you mean, but nowhere to buy it right away. i have to have car together and on trailer friday night!!!!! i have dyno time scheduled for satuday morning!!! fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck!

i bought some rod, a nut (both grade 8 have some washers, couldn't find a f'n bearing though.

gm tool = $242

callies tool = $94 (for my crank)

if i can get it on myself..... priceless!! i will report back. i have a small torch, and more will i guess!!! lol!!!!!

 

threaded rod, nut and washer= $10

flat plate from Randy = freebie!

my drill and wrench = balancer installed properly!!! now i can get it together!!! and dyno the bitch!!!