Have you tried lubing the inside of the hub with anything? I light coating of anti-seize will help a lot, plus it'll be a ton easier to get off the next time. Use a long bolt grade 8 bolt with a hefty washer and nut to pull it on.

-Dave

 

http://thumb1.webshots.com/s/thumb3/...1bOxMot_th.jpg

http://community.webshots.com/s/imag...1bOxMot_ph.jpg

Use a tool like this one that I made. It is the right way to put back on the Hub. I can make you one...

 

i would do tht, but the problem is i can not find a some what long 7/16-20 bolt. its a fine thread.

 

My tool is a heavy duty steel plate, 7/16 -20 grade 8 threaded rod and a grade 8 threaded nut. You do not want to use a bolt! That puts too much stress on the crank snout threads. The threaded rod bottoms out in the snout allowing the threaded rod and nut to see the strain of pressing the hub on. I am fabricating and selling these tools if you need one. Check the F/S section....
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288507


Good Luck

 

do you guys heat the hub and balancer or just hub? mine is a ATI dampner, I really dont won't to heat the whole assy like that.

thanks
taner

 

Just get a stud, ARP head stud works for me, and you can heat it and pull it on with the threads of the stud. This way you dont risk stipping the threads on crank. you cant use the typical pullers/installers that they rent at most auto stores, they're made for old style hub/balancer assemblies.

I say get the stud, and a nut, and pull it on that way, you should also probably heat it up just to make sure you get it on there.

P

 

weird mine slid on and I just pounded the hell out of it with a hammer to get it back on. Not gonna hurt anything. My balancer is straight now too, no more wiggling .

 

A few clarifications.....

Always deburr the edge of the hub.
Make sure the keyway is fully seated.
Make everything shiny & clean. 1 speck of dirt can lock it up.
Lube the mating surfaces.

Heat shouldn't be necessary. If you do something is likely wrong.
Boiling may not work....that can only be 212 deg. It is better than nothing.
Do not use a torch or you may cook the seal.
I would stay under 250 deg with heat, but so careful.
No reason to heat it for a few hours either, just enough to get it hot..... like 15-20min after the oven is hot.

Only heat the hub, never the balancer.

Never hammer it on.... you can ruin the thrust bearing (rear main). This is a very bad idea or suggestion. Hammers have no place anywhere near an engine.

If you pull it on.... use a grade 8 all-thread stud, not hardware store garbage or it may break off in the crank. The wrong length bolt will strip the crank & a stud gives full thread engagement.

Better yet, buy the correct $40 tool or rent one from an autoparts store for $15 so you do not ruin an expensive motor or balancer.

 

Amen Lonnie,

I don'tclaim to know everything but I've got to butt in and tell everyone TO NOT USE A FUC**ING HAMMER!!! There is a tool to do this. Beating on the balancer with a hammer WILL pound out the thrust surface of the rear main bearing. Also, a grade 8 bolt is harder than the threads in your crankshaft end, so you roll the dice hard with that method as well.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...44&prmenbr=361

The right tool cost less than a tank of premium so don't bitch about how you can't afford one. If one person reads this thread and learns something I've done my job. And if I've offended anyone so be it, I wish you all the best of luck with your hammered on ****.

My rant for the day,
James

 

ok, so now say you've pounded your crank hub on, how worried should one be about the longevity of the rear main seal :/

 

thanks for the link! will that work on an lt1 style of crank?

thanks
taner

 

I just pulled my flywheel inspection plate and not a damn drop from the rear main seal. Its not like I had thors hammer and slammed in a railroad spike. Jeez, some people are so ****. Mine slid on well to begin with.

 

Just use a sledge hammer. Works everytime and it's big enough to hit the end without mushrooming it. I do it all the time and not one problem.

 

I say you STOP right now. Remove your bolt and first go buy a new one from GM. Next run a tap into the crank to make sure those threads arent damaged.

Then follow with a VERY slight sandpaper rub, clean it up, warm it in over, and then antiseeze and it should pull right on.

I had hell with my hub several times. First time it mushroomed from hammer approach and bent it up enough that the balancer bolts didnt fit. New hub needed. Next time hub came off and the really really didnt want to go back on. I was pulling it on with the stock bolt and the bolt broke in two. One half in crank, other in my socket. I then had a professional welder weld to the bolt to try and spin it out, and it wouldnt budge, the metal kept flaking. Only thing i can assume is it became cross threaded. Ended up with locktighted hub and put it on with a bigger hammer. After the fact i also read those are 1 time use bolts because of the stretch they encounter. Sounds like you have already given yours hell, and its only a 4 dollar part for the new bolt.

Removing it after the locktight was harder than anytime with only the bolt in there. Took a torch and a big puller to get it off. I finally said screw the hub. New engine is keyed and ATI balancer which is super easy to put on and take off.

 

i just put mine on last night, and unfortunately i had to tap it on. mine too is the ATI balancer. i also had the hub cleaned out ever so slightly to help installation. i am ordering the tool above if it fits an lt1. gonna call jegs to confirm. unfortunately i had to pull it to install the camshaft.