need help!!! keep blowing ignition fuses
#33
OK, here is what I have found.
The problem was the wiring going from the PCM on the pass. side that goes down toward the started and around the header. I had already looked over it but I was going to add some heat wrap, and when I pulled the wiring up and out on the pass. side, and took off the tape to put some new tape on it it had 3 wires just twisted together, and starting to poke through the tape.
the wires with the problems were 2 that go to the O2 sensor, and one that went to the pink on the crank position sensor-which are the reasons for the ign. and sens. fuses were blowing.
I also hooked up the pass. sensor(front), and the driver sensor was actually one of the after cat ones (square plug) ran up to the header and the flat plug was just tie strapped up.
SO I put in a new sensor(flat plug) and hooker up the driver o2 plug as it should be.
the rear o2 sensors are still not connected because I have to get the bungs put in for them. I should be able to do this til next week.
Now the car stays on and also is idling alot better, and isn't pig rich either
One other problem still- the check engine light is on which I know would be on since the rear o2 sensors are not in, but then ever now and then the SES light flashes, I noticed it last night when I got on it pretty hard. Is there a reason that it is flashing??????
I know I need a code scanner, but I don't have the cash yet, so I might try and get one next week.
Should I get a scanmaster LT!1? I know that they read trouble code right?, I know that they do more diagnostics for OBD1, but it should read and clear trouble codes on and OBD2 right?
The problem was the wiring going from the PCM on the pass. side that goes down toward the started and around the header. I had already looked over it but I was going to add some heat wrap, and when I pulled the wiring up and out on the pass. side, and took off the tape to put some new tape on it it had 3 wires just twisted together, and starting to poke through the tape.
the wires with the problems were 2 that go to the O2 sensor, and one that went to the pink on the crank position sensor-which are the reasons for the ign. and sens. fuses were blowing.
I also hooked up the pass. sensor(front), and the driver sensor was actually one of the after cat ones (square plug) ran up to the header and the flat plug was just tie strapped up.
SO I put in a new sensor(flat plug) and hooker up the driver o2 plug as it should be.
the rear o2 sensors are still not connected because I have to get the bungs put in for them. I should be able to do this til next week.
Now the car stays on and also is idling alot better, and isn't pig rich either
One other problem still- the check engine light is on which I know would be on since the rear o2 sensors are not in, but then ever now and then the SES light flashes, I noticed it last night when I got on it pretty hard. Is there a reason that it is flashing??????
I know I need a code scanner, but I don't have the cash yet, so I might try and get one next week.
Should I get a scanmaster LT!1? I know that they read trouble code right?, I know that they do more diagnostics for OBD1, but it should read and clear trouble codes on and OBD2 right?
#34
The SES light flashes to identify a misfire that is severe enough to cause damage to the cats (if you had them).
The ScanMaster LT1 will work on the 96/97 OBD-II cars, but will not pull OBD-II codes. It will only pull OBD-I codes. It can not clear codes at all. You can get an OBD-II code reader for $40 from Harbor Freight.
The ScanMaster LT1 will work on the 96/97 OBD-II cars, but will not pull OBD-II codes. It will only pull OBD-I codes. It can not clear codes at all. You can get an OBD-II code reader for $40 from Harbor Freight.
#35
what would cause the misfire?I have new plugs and wires, and everything else seems to check good that I know of??????
I did however notice that the car did not feel near as strong as it did before
would it have a problem if I was running too cold of a plug?I am running TR6's in it right now because I plan to spray on it after I get all this figured out and hook up my wideband on it.
And I do have A cat it is a magnaflow cat mounted after the ORY before the rearend-but, my rear o2's are not connected yet.
about the scanmaster I just figured I could knock out 2 birds with one stone and put that $40+ towards that but I will wait on it, and payday I will make a trip to harbor freight.
thanks again guys you have been a tremendous help with all my problems on my car.
I did however notice that the car did not feel near as strong as it did before
would it have a problem if I was running too cold of a plug?I am running TR6's in it right now because I plan to spray on it after I get all this figured out and hook up my wideband on it.
And I do have A cat it is a magnaflow cat mounted after the ORY before the rearend-but, my rear o2's are not connected yet.
about the scanmaster I just figured I could knock out 2 birds with one stone and put that $40+ towards that but I will wait on it, and payday I will make a trip to harbor freight.
thanks again guys you have been a tremendous help with all my problems on my car.
#36
I was just still up and thinking-
would it be better to use my extra OBD1 auto pcm from a 94' on my 96' if I mod(resistor) the pcm for the knock sensor? it should just plug in right?then I could take full advantage of scanmaster feature and eliminate rear o2 sensors. I know I will have to have it tuned for the cam and other mods, and they could also tune it so the idle is right and to function like a manual trans PCM am I correct on this?
And is it possoble to have it mail order tuned just off of wideband readings and datalog?
just some thought I was up late thinking.
would it be better to use my extra OBD1 auto pcm from a 94' on my 96' if I mod(resistor) the pcm for the knock sensor? it should just plug in right?then I could take full advantage of scanmaster feature and eliminate rear o2 sensors. I know I will have to have it tuned for the cam and other mods, and they could also tune it so the idle is right and to function like a manual trans PCM am I correct on this?
And is it possoble to have it mail order tuned just off of wideband readings and datalog?
just some thought I was up late thinking.
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