88IROC_Z

I will tonight, but I usually work like 14+hrs.a day and didn't get to do it last night, but I will definately try tonight, besides I need to go buy fuses all I have left are 30's and I need some 10's, I will also try and put a meter on it and see how many amps it pulls->off-ign. on, running, and while cranking.
I am at lunch now but I will post up results tonight.

88IROC_Z

OK, came home after work and tried it, I left the ignition on for like 2 hrs. and nothing, it does not blow.
today, I did notice that the "engine sens" fuse was blown, when I bought the car it did not have a fuse in it at all.
I also tried to check for how many amps it is pulling, it did not pull any amps when I connected my meter inline with the ignition on and car off or while I was cranking it.
I was going to check all the wires to it with my clamp-on amp meter, but it is only AC on my clamp-on.
Today it didn't turn on today so I couldn't test it with the car running to check how many amps it is pulling, I think I could have ran out of gas though and also my battery is getting low-not too low to crank it but I am sure the low voltage would affect any amp reading I would get.
I will fuel up and charge my battery tomorrow and try again.
thanks again for all the help.
Also tomorrow I will try and get a jack and re-check all the crank sensor wiring more closely.

hosspwr94

keep us posted on what you find

Guest47904

Without the 20amp Eng Sensor fuse number 10, I couldn't list all the problems you would have. That fuse powers all 4 O2's, the MAF sensor and in the case of your M6, the skip shift solenoid and reverse lockout solenoid. You should be setting all kinds of DTC's. Not to mention you couldn't get into reverse. Most likely due to wiring touching the headers. Start by looking at the wiring going down the inner passenger fender under the foil over wrap.

Sounds like the previous owner had a problem with wiring that was much larger than you realized.

Any VOM that can be used to measure current has a protective fuse. Almost always, someone has blown the fuse trying to read a current that is too high. IF you read no current either you had it hooked up wrong or the fuse is blown.

Don't forget to set it to 10 amp scale and move the leads if it is required like mine.

88IROC_Z

OK, well the eng.sens. fuse wasn't even in there when I bought the car, But someone had screwed up the wiring before I got it because the fans were just "hot wired" through a switch. I rewired them back to the OEM wiring and also it would sputter terribly above 4000 RPM. I then found out the MAF was backwards and that the fuse was missing. I replaced the fuse and turned around the Maf and it had ALOT more power and ran smoother.
I did notice that the skip shift light would come on but would not do anything also but reverse was not locked out.
Also should the car have 4 o2 sensors?!, it only has two in the headers and the pass. side one is missing the purple wire, and the one on the driver's side is wired to a connector that comes from somewhere above the tranny, and the connector that should go to it is not connected to anything??????
I was going to re-wire the sensor on the pass. side and connect the driver one and I thought it just had a third which I was going to get a new sensor and a bung welded in for it as well as my wide-band whenever I got the car running right.
As far as burnt wires on the headers there aren't any at least.
As far as the amp reading, I did not think of the fuse inside the meter (fluke 87), since every since I bought it I never used the amp function, but my brother used it for a while and he may have.I will check that and re-test the car.
I barely got out of work and didn't have time to bring my battery charger home, but I am off tomorrow and will do that and charge my battery as well as check the fuse on my meter.
anything else I should check in the morning in addition to this?
thanks again for all the help.
-Daniel

Guest47904

You have a mess on your hands. Probably too big for any one person on this board. I have to back up and start from scratch. As I mentioned earlier, your car came with 4 O2s. The 2 before the cats have 4 pins in a flat (straight) arrangement. These are used by the PCM to control fuel. The 2 after the cats have 4 pins in a square arrangement and are only used to monitor the health of the cats. The back 2 are very often fooled into thinking they see a good cat or are simply programmed out of existence.

However, with all that is wrong with your vehicle you should have a large number of DTC's set. And your SES light should be on. So first question is does the SES come on? both during and after the start up diagnostic?

If your blowing the ENG SENS fuse it's probably due to the O2 wiring touching the headers as I mentioned before. This could also account for running rich.

You should start by looking at ALL of the wiring on top and below the engine. Pay particular attention to the wiring where it passes thru any body work or near any hot surfaces. If it's over wrapped, pull the wrapping off to see under the wrap.

I would highly suggest you invest in a shop manual from Helms. I have one for your vehicle but that won't help you much. 135 bucks.

88IROC_Z

I do not have a shop manual, but my brother works for a dealership and I have all their online data and I can look up all wiring and schematics now, I plan to get some o2 sensors this weekend and at least start the wiring of them because I can't get the car to an exhaust shop till I get it running reliably enough to get me there.And as far as the wiring I have a whole other engine harness to take all the connectors off of.

Guest47904

I think I missed where you answered this question.

88IROC_Z

sorry, I am not sure if I did, it does not come on at all, the car has some aftermarket gauge overlays and I think that it may be covering it or the bulb could be burnt.

Guest47904

You have an Ign. Fuse that blows all the time.

You had no ENG Sens fuse and when you do it blows.

You don't know what the deal is with the SES light.

Some?? of the wiring you know is not hooked up.

Man it only gets worse if you had a fire..... Get a replacement harness and rip out the old one. Don't even try patching that crap.

88IROC_Z

I have a complete 94 obd1 pcm and harness but it was cut before the PCM, do you think I should try and splice that one and use it?

88IROC_Z

OK, here is what I have found today.
SES light did not have bulb- replaced with new one, But it is on. on the OBD2 cars is there something like an A-B jumper I can use similar to OBD1 to find the codes?

oxygen sensor wiring is there it just has a broken wire on the extension from the factory o2 wiring to the new location on the longtubes- So I just need to solder and splice the extension.

Also would it be blowing the ignition fuse if I had 2 spark plug with cracked porcelain arcing over.

And also the eng sens. fuse just blew that once I think maybe because it rained and the o2 extesion wire was exposed under the car, but it has not blown since and I am going to repair tomorrow.
I also have new o2 sensors for the front o2's and plan to install those tomorrow as well.
the rear O2 sensors I need too have the bungs welded in for, but my cat. is after the Y and only has one 3" pipe- so do I still need 2 rear o2 sensors?
If I can run it without the rear ones for now I would rather get some o2 simulators instead though, or have them taken off with a tune, but I can't get it tuned till end of Feb.

Injuneer

The only 4th Gen you can jump the pins on is a 1993. OBD-I 94/95 require a full scanner. OBD-II 96/97 require a code reader as a minimum. The OBD-II code readers are available for as little as $40 (Harbor Freight).

Cracked porcelain on the plugs will not blow the fuse.

Yes, you need 2 after-cat senors to eliminate the SES light, and they both have to be installed. The code/SES light for the after-cat sensors will not affect the way the engine runs, but it will mask any other things that are turning on the SES light.

88IROC_Z

sorry, I knew someone I knew use the jumpers on the 93', and I assumed it was because it was OBD1

I didn't think that it would(broken porcelain) blow the fuse, I just thought MAYBE it could have been sort of shorting the coil and causing it to draw more current-kinda a long shot, but was hoping that could have been it.
So since I have my cat after the "Y", would I just put one o2 bung after the other?
very rough diagram I know.

=======8===>-----<->--oo--
exhaust-o2's-y-pipe-cat.-o2's inline

94'BLKBRD

I had the same thing happen to me 2 years ago in my 94'ta,It kept on blowing the ignition fuse.took it to a mechanic he said it was a short in the transmission wire(pink)