LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Need harmonic balancer hub installer ASAP!

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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 01:39 AM
  #16  
br1ev8's Avatar
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From: Tallahassee, Florida
Originally posted by MYT30TH
Just as a side note guys..... instead of using a piece of flat stock to draw in the hub I had used a 1/2" drive impact socket as a spacer w/ a thick 7/16" i.d. washer , and a grade 5 nut.( Worked Great )
Perfect. I have 3/8" flat stock, but was dreading trying to cut it with my sawzawl burning up metal cutting blades, then dulling up my drill bit to get the hole through the center. If I only had a machine shop in my garage It is a great idea using the flat stock, I just dont have the resources to cut the piece efficiently. But, otoh, using an impact socket is really resourceful. I just picked up the leaf spring bolt today and am going to try it out tomorrow. Thanks all!
Old Mar 18, 2003 | 08:18 PM
  #17  
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From: California
That is a diffiult piece of hardware to get around here. I called auto zone and Advanced and they don't carry anything. I even went to Ace and Lowes and they didn't have anything either. I would of bought the die to add 3 inches of thread to the 4inch bolt I got at Ace but I don't have a vice to hold the bolt head while cutting the new threads. I'm going to give NAPA a call tomorrow and see what they have.
Old Mar 19, 2003 | 12:16 AM
  #18  
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this is definitely not the "right" way to do it, but i just knocked it on as much as i could and then slid it on with the crank bolt, reaaaallly slow oiled it up and everything, and it went on just fine. not worth risking it doing it this way though if you have an installer of some sort. good luck
Old Mar 20, 2003 | 11:35 PM
  #19  
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From: Tallahassee, Florida
Well, I took MYT30TH's advice and used the leaf spring center bolt and impact socket today and with a little force with the wrench, I got the hub on all the way. Thanks a lot for the great info; without it I would have probably spent the high price for the installers offered by kent-moore and the like.
Also, the first time I tried to install the hub I tried the method of using the hub bolt to pull it onto the crank but started to strip the threads inside the crank. Luckily I stoped before causing too much damage to prohibit use. So, this method isn't recommended.
Old Apr 1, 2003 | 03:15 PM
  #20  
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From: columbia, sc
WOW. it was refreshing to see this post. after this past weekend i was begining to think i was the only one looking for an install tool. every auto parts store and tool supply place around here never heard of one. a couple of places told me to hit it with a hammer then screw it on with the bolt. thanks for the idea with the all thread. i was going to use progressively shorter grade 8 bolts to pull it on.
thanks
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 08:28 AM
  #21  
Don 97 SS's Avatar
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From: Robinson, IL
Well, I just got my new cam, lifters, keyed hub and timing chain this week and my engine is going back together this weekend. I guess I'll find out how easy it is based on the fine responses with ideas to get that hub back on.
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 09:59 AM
  #22  
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From: Indiana
After all these replies, there may not be much to add, but I just did this and used a 6" length of 7/16-20 threaded rod. I threaded it to the bottom, put the hub on, put the washer in and put a 1/2 drive 5/8 socket on that to use as a spacer. Then I threaded a 7/16-fine thread nut onto the rod and cranked it on. It went on great. I did it by hand for the first part to make sure it was going on straight, and then took the impact to it. No problem.
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 10:26 AM
  #23  
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From: columbia, sc
threaded rod worked great. what about after, should you then clean out all the grease and use some loctite on the bolt?
thanks.
Old Apr 2, 2003 | 07:38 PM
  #24  
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From: kentucky
Spray some brake clean in the hole, run a tap all the way to the bottom of bolt hole, then spray it again with the brake clean. I wouldnt use any loctite on the bolt, dont think it needed. JMO
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