I am out of transportation until I get a harmonic balancer hub installer, so I need one as quickly as possible. I know for sure that the one eastwood makes doesn't work with lt1's. I also know that according to others that have bought and tried the snap-on version that it doesn't work for lt1's. Also, the moroso version doesn't work for lt1's. the only other company that I know that makes one is kent-moore, but I hear they charge an arm and a leg. anybody else know of another company that makes one for an lt1? I've also heard of making one using a long threaded bolt, some washers, and a nut; could someone tell me what size bolt and thread I would need to do this. thankyou!

 

I borrowed a tool from a Kragen that worked.

The crank is threaded for a 7/16-20-2½” bolt. So the gist of the "make it yourself" tool is to get a 7/16-20 threaded rod and bottom it out in the crank, then use some washers and a nut on the rod to pull the hub onto the crank. You want the threaded rod to stay still in the crank, not to be turning against the threads in the crank. When you're all done, you'll need a way to pull the rod back out and replace it with the hub bolt, of course.

Dave

 

Dave-

Where would I be able to find a threaded rod strong enough to not strip to use? Places here in town only carry cheap bolts that wouldnt cut it.

 

Boy, I don't know for sure. Like I say, I used a tool for it. But at my local better hardware stores they carry threaded rod in cheapo quality, and in a good quality steel. It's not grade-8 material, but sort of a dark colored steel (rather than a shiny galvanized look) that I'd hope would work.

Dave

 

A really good hardware store or a fastener supply place. I found some grade 5 bolts at Lowes, but did not find any threaded rod of the right size.
I bought an install tool that I thought woud work, but the adapters were not long enough. I am looking for a way to make some good adapters for it.

Here is is hint if you make your own: whatever you use to thread into and bottom out in the crank, taper the end of it so that it is a little pointed (like some chassis bolts are). That way, it will not jam into the end of the hole and will be less likely to get stuck.

 

I did like LPE said but I got a 3 foot piece of all-thread. Shortest one they had. My fluid damper went right on. I had to get the all-thread from a fastener supply shop since 7/16 fine thread is not a common all-thread size but I have plenty left and would gladly send you or anyone else a hunk. If you could wait that long.

 

O.K. I used a 7/16 x20 hardend threaded rod with a piece of 1/2" flat stock with a hole drilled in the center & a nut. My hub went on in 5 seconds with an Impact gun. Anyway I used the treaded rod because that enabled me to bottom out the threads into the crank. This helped avoid damaging the threads on the crank. Then you slide the hub over. Then the steel flatstock with the hole in it, then the nut to use the impact gun on.
That is my budget hub puller. There was no way in hell I was going to pay for one. Works perfectly.. It is no engineering feat but I thought I'd share.
Want it? I can send it to you...

 

Mine is a Snap-On, and it works just fine....do you have a part number of the one that doesn't work???? I've never had any trouble with mine on any car.....

 

I went to one of the local Auto Parts and bought a Harded 7/16 x 20 "Leaf Spring" center bolt I believe ( theaded area was 10") @ the cost was about $6.00 (Dorman Product) ..... Just cut off the lenght that was needed to make my own installer.

Like the other fellas said remember to bottom out the stud before pulling in the hub

 

Now that was a clever solution! I'm getting ready to pull mine and this sounds like a good way to get it back on.

A few years ago I helped a bud do a cam in his and we just heatd the hub adapter in the oven and then slid it on. That appoached worked very well as I recall. We just had to be certain to use some well insulated mittens!

 

MYT30TH--Good idea. I know of a place in town that sells the center leaf spring bolt. I'm going to check there tomorrow.

Smokn '94 Z/badass383--I might take one of you guys up on that offer if I can't fabricate one myself. Thanks!

G22Lvr--About the snap-on installer, I read this> http://lists.f-body.org/pipermail/ma...ry/012686.html The part number is YA188C

 

Hmm... surely if that Snap-on tool doesn't work, Snap-on has one that does. At least one would think.

What special tool does Mr. Goodwrench use? Why did the engineers at GM design such an odd ball crank hub assemby that is problematic to work with?

 

Yeah it could be that snap-on has multiple types of installers. And I was also going to call GM tomorrow to see what they use. As to why GM design such a difficult hub, I'd like to know myself.

 

Just as a side note guys..... instead of using a piece of flat stock to draw in the hub I had used a 1/2" drive impact socket as a spacer w/ a thick 7/16" i.d. washer , and a grade 5 nut.( Worked Great )

 

Just as a side note guys..... instead of using a piece of flat stock to draw in the hub I had used a 1/2" drive impact socket as a spacer w/ a thick 7/16" i.d. washer , and a grade 5 nut.( Worked Great )


DITTO