LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Need Constructive Criticism

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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 09:46 PM
  #16  
SStrokerAce's Avatar
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Originally Posted by MachinistOne
I agree completely.

And whatever caused that bent rod would have happened to a scat or eagle - looks like a hydrolock.
I agree you compressed that rod into submission... I would want to know how since what you did wasn't the caused by RPM it was caused by too much pressure.... possibly lots of knock and spikes in cylinder pressure.

What I always do for a motor is a Mahle Pro Pack and a I beam aftermarket rod. Hypers will work but they usually aren't made to the quality of the lower cost Forged stuff.

Bret
Old Jan 14, 2007 | 10:25 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
What I always do for a motor is a Mahle Pro Pack and a I beam aftermarket rod. Hypers will work but they usually aren't made to the quality of the lower cost Forged stuff.

Bret
So basically, ANY forged piston is better than any hyper piston??
I am coming across some rotating assemblies with SRP pistons and forged I-beams for a pretty good price ~$1200
Old Jan 14, 2007 | 10:53 PM
  #18  
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ok guys, you have convinced me to go with forged pistons. looking around I can get forged I beams, and Mahle ProPack pistons/rings for ~775 shipped. cast cranks aren't too much either with eagle or scat, that is if my stock crank isn't worth machining. just gotta get some new bearings, and have someone put this together for me because I'm not sure if I can do it myself.

Again, thanks for any input you all have given me, and feel free to keep it up too. I am open to any suggestions and comments.
Old Jan 16, 2007 | 05:32 PM
  #19  
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If you're gonna buy a new crank, may as well make it 3.75"
Old Jan 16, 2007 | 05:46 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by mourningyou
If you're gonna buy a new crank, may as well make it 3.75"
I would, but wouldn't that require additional work done to the block??
Old Jan 16, 2007 | 05:50 PM
  #21  
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Yes, the block must be clearanced. My local machine shop quoted me around $200 but it may wildly vary from shop to shop

I was mostly joking though, as most of us start out to do a simple stock replacement, and end up with an endless money sink of a project :P
Old Jan 16, 2007 | 05:54 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by mourningyou
Yes, the block must be clearanced. My local machine shop quoted me around $200 but it may wildly vary from shop to shop

I was mostly joking though, as most of us start out to do a simple stock replacement, and end up with an endless money sink of a project :P
I have a feeling that is whats going to happen, and that sucks because I dont have the money for too much lol. I dont even know of any machine shops in the area.
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