Procharger F1. 630rwhp though a loose converter, 860rwhp with the nitrous.

Rich Krause

 

how do you like the d1sc, do you think that it would be a good choice......and what are your 1/4 mile times without/ with nitrous

 

The D1SC is a nice unit, and those twin intercoolers are trick.

10.77 @ 135 without nitrous. I never ran the full nitrous shot at the track but have gone 10.22 @ 140. That's in a 3,850lb car (not including my lard ***) with full emissions running unleaded.

Rich Krause

 

those are some nice times and is what I would like to see my own car do, plus a little shot of nitrous to bring the times even a little lower

Does your engine have fully forged internals and how does it stand up to these kinds of horsepowersalso how much boost are you running off your procharger

thanks for all this info it really helps me understand everything better

 

MAtt

if you want a powerful, reliable daily diriver - I'd look to building a a good heads/cam car.

I went the Sc route on a stock bottom end and worried constantly about something breaking - I saved for a rebuild and decided at the end of the day to sell the blower and get a strong head/cam combo and build up the other weakpoints of the car - suspensions, 12 bolt and so on.

i am now very happy with a very solid and fast car.

if i were ever to do the sc route again I'd do a forged low compression 383 with 12+# of boost and a FASt computer. and I'd still worry about reliability and ongoing costs and tuing issues.

 

17psi, maybe more this year. I did some head work and am going to try a new cam. The motor is very stout, and hence $$$. As far as the bottom end goes, it is a 3.75" stroke, 0.010" over with JE pistons, Oliver billet rods, Callies crank. I am using steel 4-bolt main caps with straight bolts. I have been running a simlar combo for three years with no failures. I did a new short block this year because I want to run it harder, with up to a 250hp nitrous shot. But the old shortblock looked great, I sold it and AFAIK it is in use with no issues. It was 0.040" over and therfore we did a partial block fill. At 0.010" over I am not running any fill.

Rich Krause

 

I know exactly how you feel BPS. Ever since I blew a head gasket over a month ago, I haven't been able to ditch the feeling that something else will go south. Of course, I've still got to get my belts to line up again before I start really worrying again.

If you want to do a FI car, I'd adivse you to buy a beater as well because when the car starts breaking, it doesn't stop. When it rains, it pours.

Lastly, it's not just building the motor that is the major cost factor here. Rearends, transmissions, intercoolers, etc... Just ask Rich how much it would cost to duplicate his fuel system.

 

You had to bring that up

I think there are some shortblocks out there that cost less than my fuel system, but it's way overkill.

Rich

 

You can point and laugh at me and say "I told ya so" when I start building the fuel system for my turbo motor. AN fittings and stainless braided line are expensive. It cost me $85 bucks to build a freakin coolant tube to replace that steel one on the back of the heads.

Oh well, I've got a steam tube that's raited to 1000 hp.

Now if I could get the belts to line up.

 

rskrause

that sounds like a real nice setup, about how much would it cost to do something like that to an LT1 meaning just the engine

and why did the fuel system cost so much to do

 

I got carried away with the fuel system. The whole thing adds up very quickly. It uses a lot of Aeroquip lines and fittings and that stuff is EXPENSIVE. Not to mention the twin pumps, AN fittings welded to the fuel rails, AFPR, four fuel filters, etc. About ~$1,200-1,500 in parts and subcontracted labor.

The shortblock is also very expensive and maybe overkill. But since you asked, here's breakdown.


block and prep (clean, align bore, bore and hone, clearance, deck, paint, install cam bearings, etc.): $1,000
coat pistons: $225
rotating assembly including balancing, custom pistons, rings, bearings, upgraded rod bolts, upgraded wrist pins: ~$4,000
main caps (steel caps at all 5 locations, that rear cap is $$$) ~$500

Figure ~$6,000. But as I said, it's over kill. You could get just about as strong a setup for $1,500 less.

Rich Krause

 

you may be right about overkill on the fuel system, but on the engine, I wold go the same way, because I always think of it this way, you can't ever go to strong, but if you push it on the line and get to weak then your only gonna spend more

so I will most likely spend that much or even more

now I just need to find a camaro that I want around my way

 

You ever ridden in a 550+ rwhp car camaro325?

I'm one of those NA guys putting down ~570 at the rear wheels. If you do a search for "jimlab", he's another one.... although I'm not sure on the status of his project.
As Rich said, it aint cheap no matter which route you take. Most people who have never built something like this just don't realize what they're up against ($$). Everything has to be fit for the task, so it's about more than just the motor. The motor's actually the easy part IMO.

To go SC or NA...

Having owned a few lysholm screw charged motors (still own a 00' Lightning) I chose NA for a strong daily driver. SC'ed cars at this level (550+rwhp) are just not very tractable on the street. Although the centrifs are gonna be more linear. They just make too much torque.

Yeah, that's right... I said too much torque.
Too much of a good thing, and I can give you a real world example....

A good friend of mine just got his Roe Supercharger aloft the mighty Viper V10 in his 97' GTS. If you know anything about the Viper, you know how torquey that big motor is. All said and done, this car is putting 762rwhp and 877 lbs-ft of torque to the ground. Bellinger headers, high-flow cats, accufab throttle bodies, the car is well modified and I must say... I had my doubts about even staying with this car.
Anyways, we take the cars out last night and shake em down here and there..... wherever we can find a lonely stretch of road. To make a long story short..... the snake got bit more than a few times.
My buddy just couldn't keep those 335's on the road. If he rolled on it slowly he'd already be a car length behind me..... but of course he'd reel me in. But then the speeds are crazy and it's time to shut it down. This is all in good sport mind you but we are very competetive when it comes to our cars. Hell, he stole my girlfriend some years back so I guess it's more than friendly competition, lol.

I have quite a bit of money in this car. Majority of that is in the cylinder heads, which are modified 15º GM race heads. Tough to say what it would cost to put something identical together because there are deals to be found.... not to mention, you may or may not be able to do alot of the work on your own (big labor savings). So a price is tough to ballpark.

If you wanted big reliable NA power, you could go with a gen 1 block and build a 450+ ci smallblock around a 4.125 or larger bore. More cubes = less rpm to make target hp = more reliability. Or you could build something smaller/more radical/less-streetable. Not my game though.

How much are you budgeting for this job?

-Mindgame

 

Two very good questions! With my combo, the N2O is useless on the street, so MG would outrun me easily with his NA car (lighter, more controllable hp).

Rich Krause

 

Well
i've never ridden in a 550 horsepower car, and I would really spend whatever it takes, I don't really have a budget

mind game how is your car on gas mileage?