S/C reliability and gas miliage I can say nothing on because I don't have exp. with it. I am going to say that for relability like if this car is going to be driven more the 4 times a week for a few hours a day go N/A. But S/C could be very reliable you will have to get imput from someone that has one.

 

SC cars are usually more emmisions friendly too if im not mistaken.

Fat cams or stroker and emmisions dont belong in the same sentence.

 

Well it is going to be my everyday car so I need something that will last me and not cost a fortune after I built everything up which is why I ask this question

 

learn more about everything before you make your choice.
much more simple to take care of a basic 383, its also cheaper(than a 396 or SC/TC). alot of people ask the type of question you are, and aiming for big numbers the best answer is the one that you make yourself after you become familiar with whats going on.

500rwhp via N/A is relativly tough(deffinatly achiveable though), but deffinatly expensive. If 500rwhp is your deffinate goal, i'd go SC. TC is obviously more dessireable but also more exotic, and naturaly, more expencive. Just absorbe what you can from these boards......might be easier to talk to a knowladgable engine builder-much easier to tell via conversation than typin

 

this is a common revelation.

Your mpg and emissions will take a crap no matter what you choose-much worse with N/A.

make your goal 410-450rwhp N/A, and you'll be pleasantly suprized by the cost drop from 500rwhp. Dont forget, there's always N2O

 

thanks tony, I know what you mean... I do need to learn more about the subject but I'm just tryin to focus on what would be the best way for me, because I really wanted to go with a forged engine and all with an Ati d1sc.....But I really need to find out if I do this, is it going to be reliable and worth it in the end, or am I going to regret it and be **** out of luck, because this is a very big investment and it is going to be driven more than just on weekends

 

What tony said.

500 rwhp NA isnt the easiest but can definately be done it just requires LT4 stuff. LT1 heads just dont flow well enough (275 max) to support 500 rwhp.

AFR or LT4 heads are gonna run up the price ALOT ~2k for heads alone. And theres always nitrous.

 

well I figure for the entire motor alone it would cost about10- 15k to have it built for some nice amounts of boost and horsepower

 

Just thought I'd chime in in this one. I just built a 385 for a blower and went fully forged and had the stock heads Ported & Polished with 2.02 & 1.6 valves. I don't want to take up a bunch of space describing what I did to the motor but when all was said and done my shortblock with the headwork was $7500. I was familiar with blown motors as my last one was a blown 355 and with the cam I had in that one I wouldn't have passed emissions without the blower. If you take the time to do it right it will be very dependable. I went with 9.5:1 CR on pump gas and am putting down 540rwhp with Aftercooled Vortech S-Trim at 5lbs boost and am not finished tuning yet. Like the others have said before if you are going to go blown you can't just bolt on a blower. I have upgraded about everything on the car, Mcleod S/T Clutch, AS&M Headers, 72# injectors with converter box, LCA's, Panhard Rod, SFC's etc. and I still need a 12 bolt rear to complete my set-up. If a blower is what you want go for it but keep in mind it ain't cheap to do it right.

 

In a blown motor you should just put a forged crank or can you put a forged stroker with low compression for better performance

 

RCF925 has alot of good information there, also good that he added that that much power is not simply an engine only venture.

naturaly, i think what i am doing is the best route. It's a N/A 383, will make probly around 420rwhp. it will drive very well (not crazy cam at all), but will still have significant power. the key is that it can take a 200 shot if i so desired; i will have the big power when it matters.

Just thought i'd mention this, its a reasonable and cost effective route, but i dont concider it as cool as forced induction. money matters, always

 

well thanks for all the help everybody, I really am heading towards the supercharger, plus I've always wanted a supercharged car.......but why do some people say you with a supercharger, you blow the stock motor then rebuild it to be stronger and then just blow it again.....those type of lines scare me away from getting a supercharger

 

Horsepower is cheap. You can get a fat gm847 cam ($200), cast 3.75 crank ($250), hypocrap pistons ($200), stock rods (free), heads ported on stock valves to flow in the 260 range ($700 fully assembled w/ .580 springs), and a 200 wet shot of nitrous ($450) all for under 2000 bucks. With all that you would be looking at roughly 400-450 rwhp and 600-650 on the bottle.

Would it last long? Probably not, but it would be fast while it lasted. So it all depends on what you want. Just remember that horsepower is cheap, quality horsepower that will last is $$$.

 

Unfortunatley, how fast you can go is related to how much you can spend and how much you know. If it was cheap and easy, every one would be doing it!

Your question is very general, and therefore hard to answer specifically. But I would sum it up like this: if you want a streetable car with insane horsepower, you need some sort of forced induction. Once you start to talk about 500+rwhp, you are getting into this territory. The number of 500rwhp NA street LT1's has to be very, very small. And the $$$ you put into one are no less (and maybe even more) than for a blower car that will make a lot more hp. Neither of them will have OEM levels of reliability.

OTOH, if you want a car in the mid 400hp range, go NA. That can be done reliably and less expensively than with a blower with proper selection of parts. But no matter what, you have to realize that the more powerful you make it, the more you will be overstressing other parts of the car. This will mean either reliability issues, or expensive upgrades to parts like the rear end, driveshaft, transmission, clutch or converter, brakes, etc.

Good luck, and if you have more specific questions, I will try to answer them since I have "been there, doine that" with both NA and blower cars over the years.

One other thing, I would stay away from the turbo idea unless you are after trully astounding power levels and either have very deep pockets or excellent fabrication and tuning skills with the requisite tools.

Rich Krause

 

rs kraus

how much horsepower are you running under how much boost and what kind of procharger

thankyou