My 383 back to the dyno after some tuning
My 383 back to the dyno after some tuning
So when i first built my motor she put down a horrible 389rwhp 388rwtq SAE corrected due to false knock freaking the motor out, it running a point or so rich. Needless to say i was unhappy but I knew she had some bugs to work out.
After I had PCM4less tune out the knock sensor, lean her out about a point she put down 407rwhp/394rwtq...I was happy the A/F was good and the motor wasn't having any issues but i was unsatified with the numbers.
This was even through a stock t56, spec stage 3, aluminum flywheel, stock driveshaft and stock 10 bolt! I was DREADING seeing the numbers after I had my Moser 12 bolt, dennys steel driveshaft, street twin clutch and steel flywheel installed.
Fast fordward....since then I've ditched the SLP Loudmouth exhaust, and jet-hot y-pipe (no cats)...ive went to a true dual setup (no cats) with an H-Pipe with (2) Dynomax bullet mufflers dumped before the axles, did a BUNCH of suspension work (spohn al around), switch from 20w-50 standard oil to 10w-30 standard oil, Moser 12 bolt with 4.10 gears, denny's nitorus ready driveshaft, street twin clutch w/ steel flywheel, built t56 trans w/ viper rear tail conversion. I thinking I was going to loose a significant ammount of hp by adding all that extra rotating mass but i was wrong :-)
I ended up putting down:
Uncorrected:
433 rwhp
408 rwtq

SAE:
425 rwhp
400 rwtq

Specs:
Block: Originaly 1996 Caprice Police Car 5.7L LT1 w/ 86,000 miles, bored .030 over, decked line honed, hot tanked 1000 times, and converted to 4 bolt splayed main with 3 center program caps, Clevite "H" Series Bearrings all around, block also painted jet black.
Crank: Callies Dragon Slayer 3.75" Forged
Rods: Callies Compstar 5.7" Forged
Pistons: Custom JE -16cc, forged 2816 alloy w/ nitrous pins and Hell-Fire Rings.
Heads: LT1 Alluminum Casting ported by Total Engine Airflow, flowing 276in/248exh @ .600 lift, 2.00" intake valves and 1.56" Exhaust valves (Exhaust flowed with a pipe), bolted up with Cometic MLS .040 Head Gaskets.
Cam: Custom Bret Bauer 23x/24x
Valvetrain: Comp Cams Pro Mag 1.6 NSA RR, Comp Cams 'R' Lifters, PEP Springs, Titanium Locks, Comp Cams Chromemoly 7.2" push rods
Intake Manifold: Stock LT1 ported by Lloyd Elliot and enlarged to fit the Holly 58mm tb.
MISC
Canton Oil Pan
ATI Super Dampener
Holly 58mm TB
Aeromotive AFPR
Delphi 42lbs injectors
Chrome Valve Covers
Coyles Double Roller Timing Chain
Converting to Vented Opti
CSI Eletric WP
Deleting HVAC
Static CR Roughly: 10.9:1
Very satified with the numbers, not bad for a nitrous motor N/A, a/f was dead on, got about .50 rich in the last 1000 rpm or so...now to hook up the nitrous kit. Sorry for the weird angled images, my scanner sucks.
After I had PCM4less tune out the knock sensor, lean her out about a point she put down 407rwhp/394rwtq...I was happy the A/F was good and the motor wasn't having any issues but i was unsatified with the numbers.
This was even through a stock t56, spec stage 3, aluminum flywheel, stock driveshaft and stock 10 bolt! I was DREADING seeing the numbers after I had my Moser 12 bolt, dennys steel driveshaft, street twin clutch and steel flywheel installed.
Fast fordward....since then I've ditched the SLP Loudmouth exhaust, and jet-hot y-pipe (no cats)...ive went to a true dual setup (no cats) with an H-Pipe with (2) Dynomax bullet mufflers dumped before the axles, did a BUNCH of suspension work (spohn al around), switch from 20w-50 standard oil to 10w-30 standard oil, Moser 12 bolt with 4.10 gears, denny's nitorus ready driveshaft, street twin clutch w/ steel flywheel, built t56 trans w/ viper rear tail conversion. I thinking I was going to loose a significant ammount of hp by adding all that extra rotating mass but i was wrong :-)
I ended up putting down:
Uncorrected:
433 rwhp
408 rwtq

SAE:
425 rwhp
400 rwtq

Specs:
Block: Originaly 1996 Caprice Police Car 5.7L LT1 w/ 86,000 miles, bored .030 over, decked line honed, hot tanked 1000 times, and converted to 4 bolt splayed main with 3 center program caps, Clevite "H" Series Bearrings all around, block also painted jet black.
Crank: Callies Dragon Slayer 3.75" Forged
Rods: Callies Compstar 5.7" Forged
Pistons: Custom JE -16cc, forged 2816 alloy w/ nitrous pins and Hell-Fire Rings.
Heads: LT1 Alluminum Casting ported by Total Engine Airflow, flowing 276in/248exh @ .600 lift, 2.00" intake valves and 1.56" Exhaust valves (Exhaust flowed with a pipe), bolted up with Cometic MLS .040 Head Gaskets.
Cam: Custom Bret Bauer 23x/24x
Valvetrain: Comp Cams Pro Mag 1.6 NSA RR, Comp Cams 'R' Lifters, PEP Springs, Titanium Locks, Comp Cams Chromemoly 7.2" push rods
Intake Manifold: Stock LT1 ported by Lloyd Elliot and enlarged to fit the Holly 58mm tb.
MISC
Canton Oil Pan
ATI Super Dampener
Holly 58mm TB
Aeromotive AFPR
Delphi 42lbs injectors
Chrome Valve Covers
Coyles Double Roller Timing Chain
Converting to Vented Opti
CSI Eletric WP
Deleting HVAC
Static CR Roughly: 10.9:1
Very satified with the numbers, not bad for a nitrous motor N/A, a/f was dead on, got about .50 rich in the last 1000 rpm or so...now to hook up the nitrous kit. Sorry for the weird angled images, my scanner sucks.
Last edited by NVetro; Nov 14, 2008 at 04:19 PM.
Not sure on the lash, my engine builder did them, but they appear to be dead on. And yep, HUGE difference it would appear going from the Y-pipe and slp loudmouth to a true dual setupw ith H-pipe...i would definitly tell someone to do it...it was cheap...jegs has the 3" piping..get it welded up with some collectors and mufflers and your good, for the center h-pipe i used jegs universal kit, worked perfect.
I went with -16cc pistons so that I could have an easier time slapping on some larger heads and putting either a turbo or supercharger on...the bottom end is built for n20 + boost applications (forged internals, clearences, etc..).
Even with those pistons I'm still just below 11:1 CR....and thats with 54cc heads and a .040 head gasket....set of AFR heads and a .040 head gasket should get me low enough for the boost.
Even with those pistons I'm still just below 11:1 CR....and thats with 54cc heads and a .040 head gasket....set of AFR heads and a .040 head gasket should get me low enough for the boost.
I went with -16cc pistons so that I could have an easier time slapping on some larger heads and putting either a turbo or supercharger on...the bottom end is built for n20 + boost applications (forged internals, clearences, etc..).
Even with those pistons I'm still just below 11:1 CR....and thats with 54cc heads and a .040 head gasket....set of AFR heads and a .040 head gasket should get me low enough for the boost.
Even with those pistons I'm still just below 11:1 CR....and thats with 54cc heads and a .040 head gasket....set of AFR heads and a .040 head gasket should get me low enough for the boost.
Do you have any undercar photo's of your true dual system that you could either e-mail me or post? I'm thinking of doing a true dual system for my car in the Spring. Also, any Jeg's or Summit part numbers for the parts/kit you used? TIA
As for the nitrous, prob a 250 shot on a progressive controller...who knows...prob going to start out small and then work my way up.
For the true duals, i do not have any pictures...i will try to get some....but here is a video i shot, can kinda see them:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pmzqu03ZgJ8
For the true duals, i do not have any pictures...i will try to get some....but here is a video i shot, can kinda see them:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pmzqu03ZgJ8
I guess if it was a 355 and not a 383 It would maybe be 15rwhp less or so, not really sure....as for the cam...its a custom ground nitrous cam so its not going to make amazing RWHP naturally aspirated...but it will shine on the spray...we will see...I think with a progressive 250 hp shot...i am banking on possibly seeing 300hp from that...bringing a rwhp dyno to about 733 rwhp or so...granted means nothing if I cant get it to the ground...we will see, thats why I did so much suspension work...i'll let you all know in March, my first track day :-)
I will prob not get great times as I have to learn it...but low to mid 11's is not out of the question NA....on the spray maybe take 1 second off, maybe 1 1/4 seconds who knows. We will see...anyone want to guess what the car will run on the 1/4 mile? By then she will weigh about 3500 with driver/helmet/etc.....about 3250 without.
I will prob not get great times as I have to learn it...but low to mid 11's is not out of the question NA....on the spray maybe take 1 second off, maybe 1 1/4 seconds who knows. We will see...anyone want to guess what the car will run on the 1/4 mile? By then she will weigh about 3500 with driver/helmet/etc.....about 3250 without.
We have a similiar setup! Be glad you went with the Denny's Nitrous Rdy driveshaft..I was using a decent DS and I ended up breaking the u-joints at the strip leaving at 4k on Nittos
It ended up twisting my output shaft and breaking a tooth on my counter shaft, along with breaking my UMI torque arm 
After the destruction, I wish I would have done the viper output shaft conversion but I was looking at $700 more than I already had in the rebuild. Hopefully, my output shaft will hold up with my current hp.
Anyways, sounds very good! Is it terribly loud? I don't want to be harrassed by the cops or neighbors but I wouldn't mind gaining 20-30hp more.
Gotta love a 6-speed with 400+ power!
Thanks
Cody
It ended up twisting my output shaft and breaking a tooth on my counter shaft, along with breaking my UMI torque arm 
After the destruction, I wish I would have done the viper output shaft conversion but I was looking at $700 more than I already had in the rebuild. Hopefully, my output shaft will hold up with my current hp.
Anyways, sounds very good! Is it terribly loud? I don't want to be harrassed by the cops or neighbors but I wouldn't mind gaining 20-30hp more.
Gotta love a 6-speed with 400+ power!
Thanks
Cody
i'm not gonna lie...it is pretty loud...less obnoxious then the slp loudmouth though...its a better kind of loud...sounds like the world is going to end if you punch it in 3rd gear above 3000 rpms or match revs and downshift her into that band 
I THINK I still have a little more in her....i'm pretty sure the first 2 dyno pulls the car was in closed loop since we first started...the last one she was in open loop im pretty sure (i may have those revered, i forget).

I THINK I still have a little more in her....i'm pretty sure the first 2 dyno pulls the car was in closed loop since we first started...the last one she was in open loop im pretty sure (i may have those revered, i forget).
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