It all depends on what the manufacturer tells you to do,I soak my lifters in clean oil for atleast 24 hrs,install them,set the lash and never had a problem..Everyone does it their own way..

 

First of all I didn't call anyone and idiot, that is your interpretation.

Maybe I'm not following you here. Are you stating that you don't want the lifter plunger at it's highest possible position prior to setting the preload? That is what I was taking from your statement. If it is different than that please say so.

Listen, there will always differing ideas among builders and that will never change. What works for some doesn't necessarily work for the next guy, no biggie, do what works for you.

I'm kinda hard headed so I'll continue to do what has worked for me for the last 2.5 decades.

 

Exactly, i'm sorry that we are having such a bad miscommunication on this one guys. Yes, you want the plunger at the top of it's travel. I was told never to "pump" the lifter up, meaning fill it with oil so there's a lot of pressure built up. I was always told that when adjusting your valves it will be harder for the plunger to depress if you pump them up with oil. We all do it our own way, this is the way I choose to do it. That dosen't mean this is the only way, this means this is MY way. It works for me, and it will work just as well for anyone who does it. If you read the LT1 rebuild manual specific to this engine, it says nothing about pumping a lifter. Yes, you want the plunger all the way at the top, and you want to lash your valves 1/2 to 1 full turn past zero lash. Meaning, when you can no longer easily turn the push rod with your fingers that is zero lash. After that, tighten your rockers 1/2 to 1 turn and your done. Do this in sequence and you will have a smooth running engine. Hope everyone understands this. Merry Xmas and new year to you all.

 

How do you pump a lifter by hand?

 

alright guys i didnt want an argument in my thread...this is a fresh engine rebuild...stock block but its been hot tanked and honed and heads have been machines and r almost brand new...so what im asking is having pre-pumped lifters goin to screw things up? iv heard i could do it either way

 

By nature a lifter plunger is ALWAYS at the top of the cup because of the internal spring. The term "pumped up" just means that the lifter is full of oil. No big deal.

By the way we aren't arguing, just trying to get some clarification here.

 

Absolutely not.......pre-oiled lifters are more than just fine. My caddy racing lifters came full of oil from new.....

I have no idea why anyone would recommend setting them empty of oil. It might actually be harder to find zero lash that way as the spring yields a whole lot easier than the oil does.....and you might not even feel it. The whole idea is to set the preload so the lifter plunger is in the center of it's travel. Using the thread pitch you can calculate that that's somewhere between 1/2 half and 3/4 of a turn past zero lash.

None of that changes when the lifters are full of oil....

 

Exactly, I have never "pumped up" a lifter by hand. Not really sure how that's done, but I'm not against giving the lifters an oil bath overnight and always done that.

Yes, the spring will hold the plunger at it's highest position and depending on how you find your zero position(spin or lift and drop method), the added lifter resistance will go a long way to assuring an accurate preload. That's my thoughts on it anyways........

 

i soak the lifters so there is oil in them for break in... I guess priming wouldnt hurt but I believe they come filled for shelf life... kinda like pickeled lol rust inside internal engine components is not good for new motors...
just my 2 cents