might as well do it right the first time..383 questions
might as well do it right the first time..383 questions
i definalty want to go with a supercharger setup...but as I've been reading, I realize that at the power level I want,(approx 400-450rwph), ill probably need to forge my crank, pistons, and rods. So in that case, why not build a 383?
Now I can probably get that HP NA with a 383, however, I am not sure how streetable that will be, how extensive the heads need to be worked, and how radical the cam has to be, and that alone could bring me up to what a supercharger would cost anyway...please correct me if i am wrong...i might consider it. however, I'd rather do the supercharger, and it gives me an option to go bigger in the future.
Now for the questions..I dont need to have the best strongest rotating assembly out there..but i needs to be able to hold at max about 500rwhp(just in case i want to build for the future). I am looking at Combination motorsports rotating assemblies and the Thunderracing Lunati.
My budget for this assembly is about $5,000, and it could go up to $6000 if need be. I will do the superchager sometime next year.
I will not be installing this myself. I know a good place that can probably whip my engine together, and get it tuned and running properly. For a 383, how much labor would be expected? This way I can narrow my choices down to what packages I can select. Also, in conjuction with what I purchase through one of these guys, what other parts will I need to complete the setup?
If $6K won't cut it, I might as well just throw the blower on, upgrade the fuel, and see how long it lasts. But I would rather do the engine first.
Any help
PS: I'd like to keep the compression relatively low, (say 9:5:1), where as it wont kill my power before I have the supercharger, but it wont be too bad once I get the supercharger.
Now I can probably get that HP NA with a 383, however, I am not sure how streetable that will be, how extensive the heads need to be worked, and how radical the cam has to be, and that alone could bring me up to what a supercharger would cost anyway...please correct me if i am wrong...i might consider it. however, I'd rather do the supercharger, and it gives me an option to go bigger in the future.
Now for the questions..I dont need to have the best strongest rotating assembly out there..but i needs to be able to hold at max about 500rwhp(just in case i want to build for the future). I am looking at Combination motorsports rotating assemblies and the Thunderracing Lunati.
My budget for this assembly is about $5,000, and it could go up to $6000 if need be. I will do the superchager sometime next year.
I will not be installing this myself. I know a good place that can probably whip my engine together, and get it tuned and running properly. For a 383, how much labor would be expected? This way I can narrow my choices down to what packages I can select. Also, in conjuction with what I purchase through one of these guys, what other parts will I need to complete the setup?
If $6K won't cut it, I might as well just throw the blower on, upgrade the fuel, and see how long it lasts. But I would rather do the engine first.
Any help
PS: I'd like to keep the compression relatively low, (say 9:5:1), where as it wont kill my power before I have the supercharger, but it wont be too bad once I get the supercharger.
Re: might as well do it right the first time..383 questions
You do mean $5-6k for the engine alone, correct?
I think that a forged rotating assembly from Eagle would be fine for your goals, and have a good saftey factor too. This would allow you to do a decent heads/blower cam setup on the 383, which would probably hit atleast in the high 300s rwhp when NA, but throw the boost at it and watch the numbers grow.
I figure the costs this way:
$1500 rotating assembly
$1200-$1400 heads
$800 for cam, rr, springs etc
$1000-$1300 for machine work
$250 for splayed main caps/studs
Which puts you right around the $5k-$5.5k mark without touching a blower.
Remember that this will necessitate atleast a 12 bolt and a built tranny if you are auto, or a ST or Spec IV if you are manual. Then the driveshaft, sticky tires, roll bar, etc etc etc.
I think that a forged rotating assembly from Eagle would be fine for your goals, and have a good saftey factor too. This would allow you to do a decent heads/blower cam setup on the 383, which would probably hit atleast in the high 300s rwhp when NA, but throw the boost at it and watch the numbers grow.
I figure the costs this way:
$1500 rotating assembly
$1200-$1400 heads
$800 for cam, rr, springs etc
$1000-$1300 for machine work
$250 for splayed main caps/studs
Which puts you right around the $5k-$5.5k mark without touching a blower.
Remember that this will necessitate atleast a 12 bolt and a built tranny if you are auto, or a ST or Spec IV if you are manual. Then the driveshaft, sticky tires, roll bar, etc etc etc.
Re: might as well do it right the first time..383 questions
Originally Posted by TQdrivenws6
You do mean $5-6k for the engine alone, correct?
I think that a forged rotating assembly from Eagle would be fine for your goals, and have a good saftey factor too. This would allow you to do a decent heads/blower cam setup on the 383, which would probably hit atleast in the high 300s rwhp when NA, but throw the boost at it and watch the numbers grow.
I figure the costs this way:
$1500 rotating assembly
$1200-$1400 heads
$800 for cam, rr, springs etc
$1000-$1300 for machine work
$250 for splayed main caps/studs
Which puts you right around the $5k-$5.5k mark without touching a blower.
Remember that this will necessitate atleast a 12 bolt and a built tranny if you are auto, or a ST or Spec IV if you are manual. Then the driveshaft, sticky tires, roll bar, etc etc etc.
I think that a forged rotating assembly from Eagle would be fine for your goals, and have a good saftey factor too. This would allow you to do a decent heads/blower cam setup on the 383, which would probably hit atleast in the high 300s rwhp when NA, but throw the boost at it and watch the numbers grow.
I figure the costs this way:
$1500 rotating assembly
$1200-$1400 heads
$800 for cam, rr, springs etc
$1000-$1300 for machine work
$250 for splayed main caps/studs
Which puts you right around the $5k-$5.5k mark without touching a blower.
Remember that this will necessitate atleast a 12 bolt and a built tranny if you are auto, or a ST or Spec IV if you are manual. Then the driveshaft, sticky tires, roll bar, etc etc etc.
So this winter, I figured I would start out at the engine. I figured I could get the rotating assembly, and a blower cam, springs, etc, and have that put in to hold me over until next year. If I can come up to less than my budget thats fine, it will go towards next year...and i figured I could leave the heads until next year when i put my blower in. Ill probably have more money next year to spend as well. Does this seem feasible?
This winter, I just wanted to set up the ground work.
And yes, I understand that the tranny(auto)/rear arent gonna hold once i get this power, but this winter, I shouldnt be making that much power, i figure Ill be good. I want to start with the engine, and work from there building up the car to handle my power level. if it breaks, ill just upgrade it, no biggy.
And its not my daily driver, so it wont be subjected to countly daily beatings like my other car is.
Last edited by vin1382; Sep 14, 2004 at 04:44 PM.
Re: might as well do it right the first time..383 questions
Originally Posted by TQdrivenws6
You do mean $5-6k for the engine alone, correct?
I think that a forged rotating assembly from Eagle would be fine for your goals, and have a good saftey factor too. This would allow you to do a decent heads/blower cam setup on the 383, which would probably hit atleast in the high 300s rwhp when NA, but throw the boost at it and watch the numbers grow.
I figure the costs this way:
$1500 rotating assembly
$1200-$1400 heads
$800 for cam, rr, springs etc
$1000-$1300 for machine work
$250 for splayed main caps/studs
Which puts you right around the $5k-$5.5k mark without touching a blower.
Remember that this will necessitate atleast a 12 bolt and a built tranny if you are auto, or a ST or Spec IV if you are manual. Then the driveshaft, sticky tires, roll bar, etc etc etc.
I think that a forged rotating assembly from Eagle would be fine for your goals, and have a good saftey factor too. This would allow you to do a decent heads/blower cam setup on the 383, which would probably hit atleast in the high 300s rwhp when NA, but throw the boost at it and watch the numbers grow.
I figure the costs this way:
$1500 rotating assembly
$1200-$1400 heads
$800 for cam, rr, springs etc
$1000-$1300 for machine work
$250 for splayed main caps/studs
Which puts you right around the $5k-$5.5k mark without touching a blower.
Remember that this will necessitate atleast a 12 bolt and a built tranny if you are auto, or a ST or Spec IV if you are manual. Then the driveshaft, sticky tires, roll bar, etc etc etc.
Re: might as well do it right the first time..383 questions
Originally Posted by TQdrivenws6
I did list the machine work in there. Now if you meant that you want to pay someone to pull the motor and put it back in, then that cost will obviously be there.
Edit:
Where can I get the forged Eagle assembly for $1500? I see on Combo motorsports its listed at approx $1800. Does Eagle have a website?
I see there that Eagle has a blower combo. I'll have to inquire about that.
Thanks again.
Last edited by vin1382; Sep 14, 2004 at 05:18 PM.
Re: might as well do it right the first time..383 questions
Originally Posted by vin1382
HMM..alright. So minus the head work, I should be lookin at near $4500-5K for everything(added a little bit of buffer in). That should be very nice. Thanks.
Edit:
Where can I get the forged Eagle assembly for $1500? I see on Combo motorsports its listed at approx $1800. Does Eagle have a website?
I see there that Eagle has a blower combo. I'll have to inquire about that.
Thanks again.
Edit:
Where can I get the forged Eagle assembly for $1500? I see on Combo motorsports its listed at approx $1800. Does Eagle have a website?
I see there that Eagle has a blower combo. I'll have to inquire about that.
Thanks again.
Re: might as well do it right the first time..383 questions
I thought it would be cheaper re-using my old block ing buying piece by piece, But when it all totaled up I spent 3300 on the short block. You can buy a nice fully assembled warrantied shortblock for 3000$-3500 and work your heads for about 1500 (springs valves and such included) then oyu still have cam and rockers.
It seams like any way you do it it is gonna be 5500-6000 + R&R and tuning which you can probibly get done for 1000$.
It seams like any way you do it it is gonna be 5500-6000 + R&R and tuning which you can probibly get done for 1000$.
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