Just getting 97 z28 put back together for second time this time I put a Meziere wp118hd electric pump back on it this time. Has two wires a black ground and a blue hot. It says The BLUE wire should be connected to a 12-volt positive (+) switched source. Could someone tell me a good place to put it. Thanks

 

Does it indicate the amp draw of the electric motor?

 

20 amps or better

 

Let me check with the guy that bought my Formula. I know he has an electric pump on it now. I’m thinking you might want to come off the red plastic “+” box, an inline fuse, through a relay that’s activated off the ignition switch in the “RUN” position..

 

Definitely include a relay.

 

Response from the owner of my Formula - does all his own work, and builds and tunes for other LT1 owners. This may not help you, because I had deleted the AIR pump, and he used that circuit for the electric water pump:

"I have all mine wired thru the old air-pump relay. You have to open the fuse block and cut the wire feeding the relay coil from the PCM and connect to key on 12v+ (there's plenty in there) and on the other side of the relay coil run a wire to the ground stud on the frame rail. Keeps the wiring clutter down. It will then run whenever key is on.

edit: Forgot to add I literally cut the plug off the air pump wiring (the 2 reds/1 ground) and connect the water pump harness there. This has worked for me for 15 years on all the LT1 cars I have had."

Otherwise I would go with my suggestion.

 

It absolutely needs a relay. Some have wired it using air pump but there is cutting/splicing involved to harvest the air pump relay as noted in post 6

I chose to not do it that way and added a relay/fuse on firewall. My Meziere has been on the car for over 20 years and 100k mi. YMMV

The 118HD will require some minimal shroud trimming for clearance on a F Body

There is a guy on FB that makes a relay harness for EWP. Gary @ Innovative Wiring has stepped away from making them although his stuff was always Steller.

 

The main advantage of using the AIR pump relay is minimizing wire clutter. With a stock build, running another wire from the + box doesn't have much impact, but with a heavily modified build, e.g. 24X conversion, nitrous, aftermarket ECM, etc. the electric can get overwhelming.

I was looking at a couple listings for the Meziere wp118hd electric pump, and they show 6 to 7amp, and in one case 8 amp motor draw. 20 amps is the suggested rating for the switch.

 

Yeah Fred, 6-7 amp draw for the 118 is what I have also read from Meziere. My EWP fuse is a 20amp. Back when I did mine I just bought a Painless Wring fuel pump relay/fuse. Tapped a pink wire for the trigger from under hood relay/fuse block and +12v from the AUX post at relay box. Mine is B Body so not sure if the F Body has the 3/8 brass AUX post there also

Agree a modified car can collect an array of additional relays and fuses. I have my EWP and LL relays/fuse mounted on firewall next to the stock box. Moved the EL fan relays to a remote box using Innovative Wirings kit near core support as the factory relay pin location melted. It was a TSB for the B Bodys and the GM fix was to install an outboard harness to relay/fuse (required repin of stock fuse/relay box) but just for the primary fan. Don't know if F Bodys experienced same issue as the B Body cars had for that issue

I have heard this is a source for various "wiring" items and think he makes EWP harness amoung other things

(13) Big Beautiful Wires | Facebook

 

I finally got my 30132 painless water pump relay kit in. I did away with the EGR solenoid when I did the rebuild. I found the brown wire from it that’s hot when the key is turned on. So is shoebox saying I can use the brown wire? I’m not much at wiring. But here are the installation instructions (attached pic).

 

Are you asking if you could use the brown wire that used to connect to the EGR solenoid?

I looked at the 95 diagram on Shoebox. That source of the switched 12 volt power is protected by a 10 amp fuse. Whether you can add another 8 amp load (replacing whatever the EGR solenoid load was) of the water pump needs to be analyzed. And I would have to look at the 96/97 wiring diagram, in case it’s different than 95. And it isn’t clear if the Meziere load of 6-7 amps covers the current surge (inrush) typical of starting an electric motor.

I like the Meziere use of a circuit breaker rather than a fuse. Resetting the circuit breaker would be easier than replacing a fuse.

 

I all so took the Air Pump off of mine to. All I like getting it running again is getting the relay and circuit breaker hooked up to Electric pump. Might have to get someone to do it for me. I'm going to get my son to post some of the rebuild pictures on here this weekend. About all of the parts on this rebuild are Power Coated. Jet Hot in NC recoated my Headers. Thanks Again

 

So, since I took my air pump off and cut the plug off on my 97 z28 I just have 2 wires like shoebox said I have a brown wire that's 12 volts with key on. And I also have the Painless wiring kit 30132 from Summit it has relay and circuit breaker with it also the blue wire coming from the Meziere pump has a 20-amp fuse on it. So can I just use the brown and go to relay. Look back about 2 posts ago my son put a picture of how to wire it up. Thanks