disco192

This is my current setup.

Cast Scat 3.75 crank, 6" Scat I beams, 11.5CR KB dish pistons, LE heads.

Im looking at getting a solid roller, and was wondering what would be too much lift.

I found a cam with 650 lift, but that seems really high and what kinda springs would i need?

This will be a DD, but i could care less about valve lash as i can bust it out in 45 mins easily.

Duration at .050 248 256
Lobe Lift .4000 .4060
Lobe Separation 112

I want to spin to about 6500 TOPS. Would this cam be too big and would it work with my configuration?

Thanks,
Stu

rskrause

The cam is too big for a DD that is designed to operate with a 6,500rpm red line. You need something with an intake duration in the 230 degree range. What is your compression ratio? Unless it's very high that cam will not work right due to a late intake closing point.

Rich

WS Sick

You could drop the lobe sep to a 110 and it would change the cam tremendously, what is the exact timing of the cam as is phasing, for instance 3-43-7-60 etc. (open 10 before, close 60 after etc.random numbers).

The lift is more important with a stroker, get as much air in as you can, but you want to keep the real compression ratio in check.

Youre using an I beam rod which should not interfere with the cam as much as alot of fancier rods, this will allow you to use a standard base circle cam, but still dry assemble it befor efinal to make sure you have at least .050 between the rod bolt head and the cam lobe.

SS MPSTR

This, or simply put your CC306 back in. Seems like for a DD, this would be the wise choice.

Max effort stroker and daily driveability rarely go hand in hand.

disco192

Well I was planning on using my 306, but on my recent teardown i found that the cam got chewed up too along with the MASSIVE destruction.

I ended up throwing 2 rods (5&6) and the cam lobes around that area have a good size chip in them.

Would a solid cam give me a better powerband and more power compared to a hydraulic without goin over 6500 rpm?

I wanna make more power w/o spinning it too high, and I really want a solid roller...

Any recomendations?

Injuneer

It makes no sense to use a solid roller on a 6,500rpm engine. The noise eliminates the knock sensor, lubrication can be an issue in a daily driver, the high spring pressures stress the timing set and camshaft, and you will be adjusting the valves two or three times a year depending on how much you drive it. A thought - build a 500HP engine using a "drivable" hydraulic cam, and put a 150-shot on it for extra fun.

disco192

Thats what i was thinking, i just thought a solid could net more power with the same powerband.

I have a SBC true double roller with an LT4KM. Im not sure about oiling, but i dont mind valve lash.

96speed

Don't forget the valve length. Stock valves and .700" lift cams don't match. Its my opinion that you should have someone who's building the engine set the cam up to the rest of the combo (custom grind).

For instance, I wanted a solid roller cam, but I had stock valves (lift limit), and 1.6 rockers. Most off the shelf cams with the duration I was after would require the use of 1.5 rockers to keep the lift in check. Custom cam = problem solved.

Happy LT1-ing .
Ryan