LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Manifold & JEGS Y Pipe

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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 03:39 PM
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Angry Manifold & JEGS Y Pipe

Here is the story.. I bought the JEGS y pipe for my car (part number 555 31052) and upon taking off the stock y pipe a few of the threads on the driver side manifold studs got just a little tiny bit stripped.

When I went to install the Y Pipe, I noticed that the pipe must have been bent at a wrong angle, as it seems to be off by a few degrees. I say this because the passenger side bolted up fine, but the driver side won't mount flush on the ball AND be able to hook up to the passenger side at the same time.

Now, after all of this, the threads seem to need a little help. Would you recommend undersizing the threads, or completely replacing them?

I assume a muffler shop wouldn't mind bending my pipe.. hopefully

Thanks a lot in advance!
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ashakeandfrys
Here is the story.. I bought the JEGS y pipe for my car (part number 555 31052) and upon taking off the stock y pipe a few of the threads on the driver side manifold studs got just a little tiny bit stripped.

When I went to install the Y Pipe, I noticed that the pipe must have been bent at a wrong angle, as it seems to be off by a few degrees. I say this because the passenger side bolted up fine, but the driver side won't mount flush on the ball AND be able to hook up to the passenger side at the same time.
You do know not to tighten down one side without getting the bolts/nuts on the other side started right?
Now, after all of this, the threads seem to need a little help. Would you recommend undersizing the threads, or completely replacing them?
If you're talking about the studs in the downpipe flange, replace them. They're metric but I can't remember the size off hand.
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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I just got them a few turns past where I cannot move it with my fingers.

As for the studs on the down pipe.. how to you replace them? do you have to rill them out?
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ashakeandfrys
I just got them a few turns past where I cannot move it with my fingers.
You don't want to tighten them down at all, just get them started and then do the other side.
As for the studs on the down pipe.. how to you replace them? do you have to rill them out?
They should have a hex head that will fit in a socket thats 6.5mm I believe. Its either 6.5mm or 5.5mm. Sometimes you need to heat them up or hit them with pb blaster before taking them out. If the heads are damaged get a broken bolt remover. For a broken bolt remover I like to use something like this
. They'll back right out with an impact + those (Just use a shallow socket so you can push them on while they're on the impact) and autozone carries them for under 20$ iirc.
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 04:03 PM
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so teh studs will just come out like a bolt would? must be in there pretty damn tight
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ashakeandfrys
so teh studs will just come out like a bolt would? must be in there pretty damn tight
They're probably rusted in a bit.
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 05:28 PM
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Why not just "chase" the threads with a die with the correct threads?
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 05:58 PM
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what do you mean 'chase the threads'?
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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Run a die up on the threads and it wil clean them up.....take the rust out of them. put some pb blaster on them too
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:14 PM
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45766

would this be sufficient?
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:17 PM
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don't know the size of the stud but as long as the kit has that size you should be cool......I'm sure it has it in there
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:41 PM
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you have all been more than helpful! Tomorrow I'm going to buy that tap and die set and give it a go.

Maybe by being able to tighten all of the nuts it will force the ball from the Y pipe to mount flush with the manifold?



pretty crude drawing.. but when the driver side is conencted to the passenger side (this is a 3 piece y pipe) it seems like the driver side shoudl be pitched forward more (but it can't since there is the frame right there..)

if i tightened it, is there a possibility that it

A. may conform to the ball

or

B. conform enough to seal the pipe to teh manifold without any leaks
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 08:27 PM
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that picture makes it look like there is no gap.. but there is a small one
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