MAC Header Spark Plug Access Pics
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,620
From: Saginaw, Michigan
MAC Header Spark Plug Access Pics
Since people always say how good the plug access is on the MAC's, I thought I would take a few pics. That way you don't have to just take someone's word for it.
Mac Midlength Header Spark Plug Access:
Plugs #1 and #3
Plugs #5 and #7
Plugs #2 and #4
Plug #6
Plug #8
Hope this helps.
Dan
Mac Midlength Header Spark Plug Access:
Plugs #1 and #3
Plugs #5 and #7
Plugs #2 and #4
Plug #6
Plug #8
Hope this helps.
Dan
Last edited by stereomandan; Aug 27, 2006 at 09:29 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,620
From: Saginaw, Michigan
Thanks.
Yeah, I like to know what I'm buying before I get it, and I hope this helps others to make a decision if they like these headers or not, when comparing them to others.
Dan
Yeah, I like to know what I'm buying before I get it, and I hope this helps others to make a decision if they like these headers or not, when comparing them to others.
Dan
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,347
From: Austin/Houston, TX
This is how i changed my plugs with my MACs.
1,3,5,7 - All from above, easy as cake
2,4 - Removed alternator and rubber air tubes, layed across the engine and screwed them in by hand. Tightened them down with a plug adapter, no socket, and a crescent wrench to tighten it.
6,8 - Removed starter and y-pipe (drivers side flange SUCKS) and got from bottom. These were actually pretty easy to get from the bottom with the starter and y-pipe removed.
Make sure you use plenty of anti-sieze, its a great lubricant. I used it on the plugs and head threads.
Total Time: 3 hours and change (including beer and smoke breaks)
1,3,5,7 - All from above, easy as cake
2,4 - Removed alternator and rubber air tubes, layed across the engine and screwed them in by hand. Tightened them down with a plug adapter, no socket, and a crescent wrench to tighten it.
6,8 - Removed starter and y-pipe (drivers side flange SUCKS) and got from bottom. These were actually pretty easy to get from the bottom with the starter and y-pipe removed.
Make sure you use plenty of anti-sieze, its a great lubricant. I used it on the plugs and head threads.
Total Time: 3 hours and change (including beer and smoke breaks)
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,620
From: Saginaw, Michigan
Originally posted by disco192
This is how i changed my plugs with my MACs.
1,3,5,7 - All from above, easy as cake
2,4 - Removed alternator and rubber air tubes, layed across the engine and screwed them in by hand. Tightened them down with a plug adapter, no socket, and a crescent wrench to tighten it.
6,8 - Removed starter and y-pipe (drivers side flange SUCKS) and got from bottom. These were actually pretty easy to get from the bottom with the starter and y-pipe removed.
Make sure you use plenty of anti-sieze, its a great lubricant. I used it on the plugs and head threads.
Total Time: 3 hours and change (including beer and smoke breaks)
This is how i changed my plugs with my MACs.
1,3,5,7 - All from above, easy as cake
2,4 - Removed alternator and rubber air tubes, layed across the engine and screwed them in by hand. Tightened them down with a plug adapter, no socket, and a crescent wrench to tighten it.
6,8 - Removed starter and y-pipe (drivers side flange SUCKS) and got from bottom. These were actually pretty easy to get from the bottom with the starter and y-pipe removed.
Make sure you use plenty of anti-sieze, its a great lubricant. I used it on the plugs and head threads.
Total Time: 3 hours and change (including beer and smoke breaks)
Dan
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 557
From: New Orleans,Louisiana
I can get all my plugs out from up top without removing anything, with a normal plug socket. Now for the plug wires i gotta remove the alternator and i loosen up the powersteering pump a bit.
out of that group!
