palehorse77

Pulling Stock motor to replace with 383

A. Need input on things that should and could be done while motor out. Overall labor savings.

Thinking the following

1. New Shocks & SPrings up front
2. New Clutch Disks
3. LS1 Brake set
4. Motor/Tranny Mount set (opinions on best set)
5. Fuel Pressure Reg (needed?)
6. Taylor OVC wires

B. Also, need help being sure I understand which items need to be disconnect prior to pull / drop (haven't decided which).


BTW - New Setup: LE2 - Callie Crank - Mahle Pistons - H Beams - 1.6 RR Comp Mag - Ported Intake - 52MM TB - 30#Jectrs - 12bolt - Street Twin - TQarm - Possibly Pacesetrs - sdCurrently MACs - 3.5" Alum DS -

Pulled a 13.88 at 6k feet MSL last season on bone stocker.

Any input is appreciated.
As a final note. Wow has traffice slowed on the LT1 Boards!

Thanks KA

SS Joe

Depending on whether you drop or pull, you may not need to do all that. I have only done it from the top (no lift, and I don't like the idea of getting the car that high) using a TPIS Happy Hooker (3 times). If you go out the bottom, a factory manual is going to have the exact procedure, plus there are tons of posts here about it. Out the top means less to unhook, though you do have to drop the tranny and reinstall under the car, which is kind of a pain.

My motor mounts are original and holding up fine, but I have an Energy Suspension urethan trans mount. Some say it vibrates, buts its fine in my car.

mzgp5x

I went out the top with motor. Did all that and more with a D1 ATI Procharger (no bag of chips!). I would do a K-member and lower A-arm mod. B.

danhr

out the bottom is nice.... all you need is two jack stands, and two five ton jacks.

and you should switch to different spring/shocks. don't put oems in there. if you are on a budget, go with v6 struts.

I dont know if you really want an aluminum driveshaft.... that's just personal opinion though.... until you break it.

if you want to take your a/c out, now would be the time to do it.

palehorse77

I'd really like to do the K member but I've already spent >6k$.

I've got the Happy Hooker but seem to like dropping from bottom for access to motor once out and I need to clean up the undercarriage as well.

Why v6 springs?

Already have 3.5" lingenfelter driveshaft - its taken a pretty serious beating.

Regarding the items to disconnect I must have missed when I was 8 beers in last night but there is a decent section in the Haynes manual and I have the Helms Shop Manual as well.

Thanks for the help - Any other ideas?

danhr

v6 springs are softer... so you will get better weight transfer.

you can pick them up at a junkyard for like $50.... or you can spend some big $$ and get qa1's.

Zachz28

V6 springs in the front or the back?

danhr

in the front it will def. help

having them in the back is controversial.... some say it helps the car squat, so it plants the tires harder..... some say that it just "looks like it's squatting more, but is still exerting the same force on the tires" and that springs have very little to do

I have them in the front and back

ABA383

If you are building something that you'll want to drag race now is a good time for QA1 R series fronts with 275 lb springs and QA1 12 way rears with the stock springs...You do not want the car to squat, you want to stiffen up the rear to help plant the tires hard into the track...The QA1 R series fronts and the 275 springs will help the load transfer to the rear, and the rears set on a stiff setting will drive that transfer right into the track via the tires...They are not cheap, but you can find used shocks all over the place for not a lot of $$$...I did that mod this year and it makes a big difference in consistency and being able to tune your suspension to the track conditions...just my .02...

As far as driveshafts go the LPE is a stout piece...but I have a 3" steel driveshaft from A1, a local company...After breaking a 1LE aluminum shaft I got scared of aluminum...but I've never seen the LPE one fail...

--Alan

palehorse77

Yea I ripped my 1le DS in half as well! Anybody thats ever driven a street twin would understand the abuse the suckers can shell out.

We'll I'm definately going out the bottom.

I'd heard that the 96 97 WS6's had the lowest stance of any of the F cars. I'd like to get a taller stance and thinking springs from a >2000 WS6.

BTW I think the weight transfer comment is somewhat off base (squat no bueno!). The less energy you spend lifting the front end the more you'll use to get you moving. I think items like shorter TA's and LCA brackets should do most of the work. Just my .02 I know their is quite a debate about this and I very well could be wrong. I will say that the cars going 300 MPH don't have springs at all.

c5formula

i think you should go with a bigger TB like a 58mm or a monoblade, the 52 isnt going to be able to flow enough. also the injectors, i would say to go with atleast a set of 36lbs to give you some more room. the pacesetter long tubes is a must and a good exhaust like some 3" TDs would be nice.

palehorse77

The debate on these items rages on. I believe that the 30# should be fine and that the duty cycle may be a bit high at WOT but will provide adequate fuel and I've read that the 52mm isn't a restriction till well beyond the flow I require. I'm looking at 400 - 420 rwhp if I'm lucky. I'm at 6000' above sea level here. Assuming you were right and the 58mm/injectors are necessary I can swap them out with out taking out motor and that is really what I'm concerned with. I just want to be sure I make the best use of my labor.

I do agree with your pacesetter comment. I saw that one of the site sponsors (Speed Engineering) had a pretty good deal on them a while back I need to see if they are still available. I think for the cost benefit ratio I'm just going to stick with my 3" and flowmaster setup in back. I do have plenty of room now with the MAC tq arm so I will likely do duals in the distant future as an ode to the oldschool!

Finished removal of Original LT1 out the bottom yesterday. I have to say I thought it went very well. It took a long time but I was taking my time and had to do it while my daughters slept in the room above me which meant no noise aka no air tools or compressor!!!! Damn it Jim.

Have any of you guys heard of a way to debur / polish our intakes in a shaker with ceramic media and walnut or some of the other finer softer media??? I've had a difficult time finding someone that can help with this. I may just do a separate post on this.

Thanks again, Kirk

Injuneer

You might want to separate the questions, and post them on the correct forums.... "Suspension...." for the springs and shocks and brakes questions, "Drivetrain....." for the clutch disc, etc. Several of the questions don't belong in LT1/LT4 Engine Tech.

CamaroRacing12

if i were u i would look into that new stainless set of headers that are coming out soon instead of the pacesetters... apparently they r suppose to be priced good...

palehorse77

What stainless steel set (brand)? I certainly would like to go that route but they typically are priced like HOT DIPPED Platinum!

Thanks Kirk