97ramairta

im going to rebuild my LT1 and im wanting to make 400-500 hp N/A on a 383 stroker setup. got any suggestions on a good head/cam package? better to p&p stock heads or buy new aftermarket ones? suggestions on the air/fuel end of it. suggestions about anything would be great. any info please.

ulakovic22

I would suggest using the search function, you will find lots of useful info about building a 383. For high HP applications you will need to get a set of aftermarket heads so you can feed the bigger engine, LT1 castings can only go so far. Once you get your heads figured out then you can move onto a cam that will work well with your heads. You will want to go forged with the bottom end, but quality of parts will depend on your budget Also look in to rear ends cause if you do any kind of racing you will chew up the stock 10 bolt very quickly.

97ramairta

hey thanks for the info. im going to have a pretty good sized budget so that really shouldnt be a problem. if the setup gets out of my budget i will just wait until i have the money bc i only want to do this once and right the first time. thanks

NVetro

Well I think the big hp stroker heads of choice if your not getting your stockers ported I think are those AFR (Advanced Flow Research) 220 race or comp port heads, i forget which. Look into that company, if the heads are out of your budget check out Lloyd Elliot (search on the boards) he does amazing things with the stock lt1 castings. Just take my advice, and im sure other will agree. BUILD IT ONCE. Dont skimp out on ANY parts, if the diffrence between going hypertaunic (sp?) and forged is like $500, then spend the $500, if converting to 4 bolt main is $500, do it, im sure you get my drift. Build the motor so you dont have to touch the bottom or top end or have to worry about it until you want more out of it. Also, look into Victory Racing Engines, they are a board vendor and do some GREAT work on lt1 and ls1 motors, they will build and blueprint it from the oil pan to intake manifold if you want.

97ramairta

NVetro...what is the difference between the AFR race ready and the competition package? i've looked a lot of places and still dont know the differece except for about $750 in price and some better flow numbers. what does the package consist of? i plan on doing it right the first time most defiantly...if i have to i will wait for the extra money to come in first. the thing i dont like about the victory engines is that they cost around $10,000 and i already have a motor and can mod it for less than that and have more hp likely.

magnumv8

make sure you do your homework... just throwing together a bunch of parts wont work. Getting the right combination of parts that work well together is what its all about. You can learn alot about what works and what doesnt by searching this forum. Learn from other people's mistakes (and successes). I took 2 years to do mine, and didnt skimp on anything and it paid off for me. Just dont forget all the supporting mods like tranny, rear, suspension, fuel system, etc. And whatever $$ you have in mind to spend, just double it and you will probably be about right

Eric@Victory Racing

We have various short block packages around $3,500.00, and long block packages starting around 6500.00.

Injuneer

400-500 rear wheel or flywheel HP? If rwHP, what drive train are you going to be using, since that will determine where you need to be on flywheel HP.

97ramairta

well the car i was going to buy sold this weekend before i could get to it. so as far as drive train now, its an open ball game. i would like to see 400-500 at the wheels.

1racerdude

If ya are looking for 500+RWHP ya will need 600+FWHP.
The comp series AFR's are hand ported after the CNC job.
IMO getting a set of SBC heads and having them converted and another intake that will flow with the heads would be a good thing. That will leave ya able to make well above 600 if ya want. A set of SB2.2 comes to mind for BIG HP like 800FWHP.

97ramairta

does anyone have a set of Advanced Inductions 190cc StreetPro LT1 Cylinder Heads?? the claim to hold up to 1200 hp. they sound good and have a very reasonable price on them also.

1racerdude

Maybe with a blower or a butt load of hose.

They would have to flow in excess of 550CFM and they won't do that in fact they would be hard pressed to flow 375CFM.SB2.2's will flow in the 450CFM range but not a 23* head.

SantaCruz163

A 383 with a stout heads and cam package (LE2/3 or AI) plus a full exhaust (long tubes highly recommended) and a supporting fuel system running with a good tune should be near there 500rwhp mark if not at it. If it's not you can always thru some nitrous into the mix.

1racerdude

LE2 set up wont make 500RWHP and ya better have EVERYTHING spot on for a LE3 set up to do it,
with lots of compression and race fuel.

300CFM will make 615FWHP=504RWHP with an auto and 12" and have not heard of an LE3 set up that flowed that much.
That IS a good set up but ya need to lower your RWHP numbers.

97ramairta

i plan on running hooker super comp coated long tubes with straight pipes and loud mouth exhaust. are kooks worth the extra $200 or is that to say you have kooks headers? i dont want to go with N20 or s.c. yet. i want to see how far i can get N.A. and still stay pretty reasonably street.