LT1 Rotating Assembly Question
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 83
From: South Carolina
LT1 Rotating Assembly Question
Time to rebuild my LT1. This is a street car, 97 Camaro SS. Thinking of going ahead and stroking it. Just wanted someone to look over my plans and give advice suggestions to make sure I am heading the right direction.
I have a budget of $2500 - $3000. I will assemble the engine myself just have to pay for machine work. I already have a set of heads that Golen engine services pocket ported and installed 2.05/ 1.94 valves. And all the goodies for cam. I am going to have Lloyd Elliot custom grind a cam(unless you know better source).
The goal of the car, I don't have one. Just want a fun driver. So my main questions is about which rotating assembly to get.
The rotating assembly I plan to use is: Scat Engine Rotating Assemblies 1-91055
Scat Engine Rotating Assemblies 1-91055 - SummitRacing.com
This has cast crank, forged pistons and rods.
Called Doug Herbert for machine work prices (I work just down the road):
150 bore
140 clean
215 clearance for stroker
225 balance
125 surface square block
6/ install cam bearings
885 total
Will that rotating assembly work or is there a better one?
I have a budget of $2500 - $3000. I will assemble the engine myself just have to pay for machine work. I already have a set of heads that Golen engine services pocket ported and installed 2.05/ 1.94 valves. And all the goodies for cam. I am going to have Lloyd Elliot custom grind a cam(unless you know better source).
The goal of the car, I don't have one. Just want a fun driver. So my main questions is about which rotating assembly to get.
The rotating assembly I plan to use is: Scat Engine Rotating Assemblies 1-91055
Scat Engine Rotating Assemblies 1-91055 - SummitRacing.com
This has cast crank, forged pistons and rods.
Called Doug Herbert for machine work prices (I work just down the road):
150 bore
140 clean
215 clearance for stroker
225 balance
125 surface square block
6/ install cam bearings
885 total
Will that rotating assembly work or is there a better one?
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,152
From: Woodstown, NJ
Re: LT1 Rotating Assembly Question
In order to keep things simple I would let the builder decide which rotating assembly to go with. That way if there is a problem with the parts themselves the ball is in your court. Seen it happen too many times - let them choose (with your approval of course).
But what I would do since you have a decent budget is to reuse the stock crank and rods, use a good forged piston, and invest your money into a quality set of heads and cam. Those Golen heads aren't known to be the best in the world. So here's the breakdown:
Option You: You go with a cast 383 rotating assembly using sub-par heads with unnecessarily large valves (1.94 exhaust valves don't exist for LT1s) and end up with a below-par stroker motor putting out 350-370whp.
Option Me: Use the stock crank and rods and a forged piston, go with an Advanced Induction CNC heads/cam package with a custom cam with good tuning and you'll have an essentially bulletproof combination good for 410+whp. You could sell those Golen heads to help recoup some of the additional capital this option will cost. This will of course be a 355 but it would outperform that 383 all day long.
You'll only want to do this once...think about it.
But what I would do since you have a decent budget is to reuse the stock crank and rods, use a good forged piston, and invest your money into a quality set of heads and cam. Those Golen heads aren't known to be the best in the world. So here's the breakdown:
Option You: You go with a cast 383 rotating assembly using sub-par heads with unnecessarily large valves (1.94 exhaust valves don't exist for LT1s) and end up with a below-par stroker motor putting out 350-370whp.
Option Me: Use the stock crank and rods and a forged piston, go with an Advanced Induction CNC heads/cam package with a custom cam with good tuning and you'll have an essentially bulletproof combination good for 410+whp. You could sell those Golen heads to help recoup some of the additional capital this option will cost. This will of course be a 355 but it would outperform that 383 all day long.
You'll only want to do this once...think about it.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 83
From: South Carolina
Re: LT1 Rotating Assembly Question
In order to keep things simple I would let the builder decide which rotating assembly to go with. That way if there is a problem with the parts themselves the ball is in your court. Seen it happen too many times - let them choose (with your approval of course).
But what I would do since you have a decent budget is to reuse the stock crank and rods, use a good forged piston, and invest your money into a quality set of heads and cam. Those Golen heads aren't known to be the best in the world. So here's the breakdown:
Option You: You go with a cast 383 rotating assembly using sub-par heads with unnecessarily large valves (1.94 exhaust valves don't exist for LT1s) and end up with a below-par stroker motor putting out 350-370whp.
Option Me: Use the stock crank and rods and a forged piston, go with an Advanced Induction CNC heads/cam package with a custom cam with good tuning and you'll have an essentially bulletproof combination good for 410+whp. You could sell those Golen heads to help recoup some of the additional capital this option will cost. This will of course be a 355 but it would outperform that 383 all day long.
You'll only want to do this once...think about it.
But what I would do since you have a decent budget is to reuse the stock crank and rods, use a good forged piston, and invest your money into a quality set of heads and cam. Those Golen heads aren't known to be the best in the world. So here's the breakdown:
Option You: You go with a cast 383 rotating assembly using sub-par heads with unnecessarily large valves (1.94 exhaust valves don't exist for LT1s) and end up with a below-par stroker motor putting out 350-370whp.
Option Me: Use the stock crank and rods and a forged piston, go with an Advanced Induction CNC heads/cam package with a custom cam with good tuning and you'll have an essentially bulletproof combination good for 410+whp. You could sell those Golen heads to help recoup some of the additional capital this option will cost. This will of course be a 355 but it would outperform that 383 all day long.
You'll only want to do this once...think about it.
Not a bad option. which AI heads for street engine?
Last edited by 7designs; Feb 2, 2013 at 01:26 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,152
From: Woodstown, NJ
Re: LT1 Rotating Assembly Question
If you're more budget-oriented the 190cc heads are also proven performers.
It can be said that both choices are better than the Golen heads.
Administrator
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,094
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Re: LT1 Rotating Assembly Question
Edelbrock indicates 270cfm at 0.600" lift. Actually, they've pretty much topped out at 0.500" (267cfm). AI or LE can easily top that, with proven performance, by porting your stock heads. Why spend $2,200 for a pair of Edelbrock heads, when for the same money, you could get heads the flow better, perform better in a package that includes a matching cam.
Are your Golen heads ported GM LT1 castings, or the AFR 195cc heads they sell for their 396 (2.05" int/1.60" exh)?
Are your Golen heads ported GM LT1 castings, or the AFR 195cc heads they sell for their 396 (2.05" int/1.60" exh)?
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,784
From: Jacksonville
Re: LT1 Rotating Assembly Question
Spend your money where it will make a real difference (the heads). Reuse the stock crank with a good set of I beam rods and pistons. The extra displacement from a 383 is nice but it's wasted if you can't feed it correctly.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1LEThumper
Forced Induction
40
Jul 14, 2003 12:45 PM