LT1 Rear Main Seal
Re: LT1 Rear Main Seal
Ouch, that sucks Drew. Might want to pick up a oil dye kit and first wipe down all the areas you do see oil now. Changing pan gasket with engine in car is no small job so I would first confirm "where" the leak originates. Oil migrates down to the lowest point. Maybe its as simple as a valve cover gasket.
If you do the pan gasket rotate motor to # 6 TDC to give you more clearance. Remember to remove the oil level sensor first. Make sure none of the encased metal spacers of the old pan gasket remained on the rear posts of the RMS adapter when you pull the old pan gasket...or your new gasket will leak
If you do the pan gasket rotate motor to # 6 TDC to give you more clearance. Remember to remove the oil level sensor first. Make sure none of the encased metal spacers of the old pan gasket remained on the rear posts of the RMS adapter when you pull the old pan gasket...or your new gasket will leak
Re: LT1 Rear Main Seal
I think dye will be the next step if the pan gasket doesn't fix it. From what I can tell, it looks like some of the RTV is coming up on the pan side. This time around I am hoping that by taking the pan off completely, I will be able to do some better work, as well as add from what I learned form the intake:
1. Better clean the mating surfaces
2. Look for possible issues with the pan rails flatness
3. Allow the RTV to cure for an hour before torquing down the pan to final spec
I have already taken white shop towels over the back of the intake and around the valve covers, it doesn't appear to be the case. I am fairly certain the the oil level sensor will not come out without taking the headers off. I have a Canton pan; I don't believe the sensor interferes with the pickup, but I will gingerly move the pan when removing.
Fingers crossed!
1. Better clean the mating surfaces
2. Look for possible issues with the pan rails flatness
3. Allow the RTV to cure for an hour before torquing down the pan to final spec
I have already taken white shop towels over the back of the intake and around the valve covers, it doesn't appear to be the case. I am fairly certain the the oil level sensor will not come out without taking the headers off. I have a Canton pan; I don't believe the sensor interferes with the pickup, but I will gingerly move the pan when removing.
Fingers crossed!
Re: LT1 Rear Main Seal
This car is temperamental. Last night while getting ready to do the pan, I decided to pull out the UV light to see what was hanging around. There was still enough dye in the block that new oil was still pretty bright. That verified that the RMS is clear but I did see pool at the back pig the pan. There was a ton of oil splatter over the block, so instead of digging in last night, I sprayed the whole block down with brake clean and wiped everything I could touch.
This morning I started it, let it run for about 10 minutes with a number of 5k revs, and not a drop of leak. I spent the day installing adjustable A arms and Bilstien HD struts.
I am guessing that whatever is leaking requires some actual stress on the engine and chassis. At very least, I am now a beast at taking off the starter and dust shield. I will keep this updated as I know more!
This morning I started it, let it run for about 10 minutes with a number of 5k revs, and not a drop of leak. I spent the day installing adjustable A arms and Bilstien HD struts.
I am guessing that whatever is leaking requires some actual stress on the engine and chassis. At very least, I am now a beast at taking off the starter and dust shield. I will keep this updated as I know more!
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