injector part number is 24508208, i'm hoping to go out today and take a look at it later. Probably adjust the valves, put the injectors back onand hope all works out and is well but who knows. Thanks for the help again though

 

i replaced the throttlebody gasket with a stocker for now, for a while it kept a decent idle although it was only at 600ish rpms it wasn't as rough

 

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was able to go out today and switch out injectors back to 36lb, the tune is set for 30lb right now though so it should be running rich, something i noticed was it runs better in open loop then closed loop, had to throttle it to keep it alive, also i noticed my timing goes backwards when i hit the throttle isn't it suppose to increase, mine went from like 30 degrees advanced to 22ish advanced. MAP sensor also seems to be reading high, less intake backfires though and its revving a little more then before probably do to the throttle body gasket being replaced its definetley not as rough

 

If I had your problems, I would buy a new set of the correct injectors and get a quality brand and not mess with the car the way it is. You have it set up to not work right and until you get the right injectors for the tune, you will be chasing your tail. This might not be your only problem, but it fixed all my issues.

 

the injectors work and the car was tuned for them, its definetley something else jsut curious if anyone else would have insight off the little bit of live readings i posted up

 

I think the frustrating part is your thread title is "lt1 flooding". I am guess you have 36lb injectors with a tune for 30lb and that is what is causing your issue you started this for. To do a whole bunch of tests and readings and not fix what is known to be a problem makes it hard to move forward with other things. Fred and the rest of us spend hours helping and it makes it tough when info is left out, wrong or advise not taken. I hope others are willing to help.

 

i understand about it being frustrating, the vehicle was flooding though was running real rich, which i think has been resolved by replacing the throttle body gasket its still running kind of rich but not so bad that i can smell it out the exhaust anymore, the tune was also for 36lb injectors i tuned it down to 30 thinking maybe that would help, which probably wasn't the best idea since then i've been having trouble connecting to the car to tune it again for the 36lb injectors. i thank everyone for they're help and the car is already better off then it was before just trying to figure out the rest of the bugs instead of start a new thread

 

Reducing the injector size in the tune from 36 #/HR to 30 #/HR works just the opposite.... it makes the engine run even richer. The injectors are spraying 20% more fuel than the PCM thinks they are.

Yet the LTFT's in the scan are all positive. What EXACTLY did you do to the tune to "tune it down to 30"?

Hard to get much from the video, but your left O2 sensor seems to be stuck at 0.445V, indicating its not connected or not working.

The high MAP (~23"Hg) is probably the result of keeping the throttle open to keep it running, and the misfires.

I supect your oil will reek of fuel. Have you checked it?

 

oil has slight fuel smell yes, the map stays high even on idle, im not sure if the setting the set screw to much will mess it up and give it a high iac count which my scanner doesnt read. In my jet dst tuner i got the tune off and went to fuel parameters and adjusted fuel injector flow rate. could be wrong but thats the only thing i changed, also ever so often i get a p0336 code not sure if this is related though, i though the one stuck at .445 is the rear one which are not on the vehicle.

 

I appears your left is the one not moving, but real hard to see the video. If thats the case, it would explain a lot of your problem. The left and right are important and one not working right, is going to mess things up. I would check the wiring and make sure it looks good or replace it.

 

i see 2 different 02s constantly changing then the one that stays the same should be the rear one i mean i have no problem with replacing them i just don't wanna do it if its not the real problem

 

another thing is my brakes are making almost no power, pedal is real hard to put down i can tell theres a little bit a vacuum in the brake booster but sure isn't much

 

With 23"-24"Hg MAP reading, you have virtually NO vacuum! In fact, since you are in Colorado Springs, it's basically reading barometric pressure.

 

That's what I figured, thanks for verifing that for me though, any chance my set screw is open to far and its letting in to much air? What else should I check for vacuum leaks again I suppose what's the best way to go about doing that? Also slightly off topic I lost a fuel rail bolt any chance of findinng one at a hardware store or should I got to a junk yard?

 

Also could I possibly have false knock cause my timing to retard as much as it is on open loop at idle it was reading about 30 degrees right were its suppose to from what I saw on my tune data