lt1 flooding?
Re: lt1 flooding?
i stopped by the junkyard today picked up a map not sure if its anygood but for 10 bucks figured id give it a try also got a couple fuel rail bolts and a opti wiring harness mine took a little damage but still worked figured i might replace that and give it a try as well
Re: lt1 flooding?
another update: alright so far i've replaced map sensor, pcv hose because it wasn't torn i just didn't like how it sat, tighten down intake bolts replace opti harness and i'm pretty sure that is it. Started the car up and it did the usual, by unplugging the map sensor though it will idle almost all day long if i let it. Sprayed more carb cleaner couldn't find anything way out of the usual. All around confused really am, could my brand new valves be stuck slightly open or is it possible they're even bent? I checked pushrods before and none were bent.
Re: lt1 flooding?
If your intake valves are open, you can hear that through an open throttle body as you crank the engine (with ignition disabled). Exhaust valves hanging open is harder to hear through the tailipe, but you might get a clue that way, too.
I forgot if you were asked this yet, but did you degree your cam? Does it sound like your engine has good compression? Is it cranking evenly? If it is, can you test the compression in a couple cylinders?
I forgot if you were asked this yet, but did you degree your cam? Does it sound like your engine has good compression? Is it cranking evenly? If it is, can you test the compression in a couple cylinders?
Re: lt1 flooding?
i checked the map harness a while back but i suppose i can give it a check again i don't quit remember what the readings were just checked them how do i go about this? Also as far as valves being stuck open i'm not quite sure i know when you give it throttle it sounds like its gurgling at the intake with intake backfire and exhaust backfire and doesn't clear itself up some untill WOT in which case it still won't rev and is still running really rich maybe i'll get a video of it later. I appreciate everyone helping with there suggestions i know this is starting to get long and drawn out, but thank you and Happy 4th of July everyone!
Re: lt1 flooding?
also forgot to say that i did check compression a couple months ago when i was having other issues all were over 100 psi i don;t remember the exact readings, also it cranks evenly i just don't see how new valves can be sticking already maybe ill take the valve covers off and tap the springs with a rubber mallet see if that frees it up. Also what do you mean by degree my cam? Set the timing up right because i put cam at the 3 o clock position which i believe is 6 tdc with the cam pulley dot at 6 o clock and the crank pulley dot at 12
Re: lt1 flooding?
I doubt your valves are sticking. If you lined up the dots, you put it in correctly, but degreeing the cam insures that the cam is timed and ground correctly - they usually are, but you never know. When you get the valve covers off, just take a good close look at everything - maybe turn the engine over a couple times slowly and see if all the valves are closing completely.
Re: lt1 flooding?
You want 5.0V between the gray and black wires. That is the reference voltage. To measure the signal, measure the voltage between the light green wire and the black wire.
Barometric pressure (what the sensor reads key on/engine off) would be about 3.9 - 4.0V at 6,000-ft elevation. At 23"HG you would see about 3.6V. Normal idle with a healthy engine would put you at about 10"Hg MAP, and that's about 1.5V. With a hairy cam, you will have MAP well above 10"Hg.
Barometric pressure (what the sensor reads key on/engine off) would be about 3.9 - 4.0V at 6,000-ft elevation. At 23"HG you would see about 3.6V. Normal idle with a healthy engine would put you at about 10"Hg MAP, and that's about 1.5V. With a hairy cam, you will have MAP well above 10"Hg.
Re: lt1 flooding?
update guys, any ways i ripped apart the fron tof the engine timing cover and all just to take a look. needless to say i believe the timing chain is good i took a picture just to ask what everyone else thinks but thats not the big discovery i found. I took apart my chandler opti spark and compared it to the old one because i read that there ebay opti was off time, well and behold my old stock opti and new opti are off with the cam dowel at 6 the rotor on each are like a half inch or more apart from eachother
getting a new opti will update you guys when its done
the timing look good btw?
getting a new opti will update you guys when its done
the timing look good btw?
Re: lt1 flooding?
hey guys,
finally got it all together with a third new opti.... third times a charm i guess haha. Car started revvin high at like 2k rpm. Adjusted throttle set screw back down and readjusted tps idles a lot lower still a couple 100 high so im going to try and reset the iac. Valves are also real loose now, gonna re tighten them tonight. problem with the opti was the old one was degreed off as scene in my thread here
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...roblem-867226/
thanks everyone for the help gonna re adjust these rockers and reset iac and take it for a drive.
finally got it all together with a third new opti.... third times a charm i guess haha. Car started revvin high at like 2k rpm. Adjusted throttle set screw back down and readjusted tps idles a lot lower still a couple 100 high so im going to try and reset the iac. Valves are also real loose now, gonna re tighten them tonight. problem with the opti was the old one was degreed off as scene in my thread here
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...roblem-867226/
thanks everyone for the help gonna re adjust these rockers and reset iac and take it for a drive.
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JasonD
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Jul 15, 2002 02:17 PM



