Stock advance it idle on an M6 is 18-20deg. Spark advanced is pulled off a table of RPM vs. MAP. If the MAP reading is fubar, the spark table lookup is not going to produce the correct advance.

How could the throttle blade stop screw be letting to much air in? You appear to have to hold the throttle open just to keep it running? Turn the key on, engine off, and use your scanner to read the TPS voltage. If its more than 0.90V the stop screw may be out too far, or the 58mm TB may have thrown off the TPS sensor and the sensor may need to have the holes slotted, so it can be adjusted to the correct voltage. Many people also have problems with the idle air flow on 58mm throttle bodies, and they often cause split BLM's at idle.

Problem is, to set the throttle stop screw, the IAC counts and the TPS volts, you have to have the engine idling smoothly, and know what the programmed idle speed is. Stock is 800rpm with the engine fully warmed up, with an M6 trans. But your programmer may have set it to something else.

 

Before running your motor anymore,I would change the oil..

 

i havent been running it nor do i really want to change the oil just yet, also the rpms are set to 875 by the tuner, the spark advance on my table for idle should be around 30degrees advance. i re adjusted my set screw and tps, tps is reading good and it idles on its own with open loop when it gets into closed loop it wants to die just kind of chugs along at 500 rpms sometimes gets as low as 300. so because my map is reading wrong it can retard my timing is that what i'm understand?

 

The timing the PCM tries to set is determined by a table with RPM on one axis and MAP on the other axis. If the MAP sensor reading is incorrect, its not going to pick the correct number off the table. It's not "retarding" timing, it just can't find the right number because its getting bad info from the MAP sensor. The PCM uses MAP as a measure of engine load. If it sees very high MAP at low RPM, its going to pull a lower ignition advance off the table, because it is under the impression you've open the throttle wide and put a huge load on the engine. High cylinder pressure at low RPM calls for less igntion advance.

 

Alright that makes sense to me, so now i just need to figure out why the vacuum is so low and try to get this figured out and see if that helps. anything besides the intake and brake booster that could have a slight vacuum leak?

 

Have you checked the MAP sensor to see if its working? The harness connector often dries out and crumbles, giving you intermittent or incorrect readings. If you have a hand vacuum pump, like a MityVac, pull the sensor out of the manifold, leaving the wires connected. Hook your scanner up and use it to read the MAP sensor (key on, engine off). Apply a vacuum with the hand pump and see if the MAP reading changes. MAP = barometric pressure minus intake manifold vacuum. MAP should approach 0 as vacuum increases.

If the MAP sensor is working correctly, could be faulty valve adjustment.

 

the plug is broken but just the clip aspect of it, i have another one that i'm gonna splice in tomorrow, unfortunatley i don't have anything to make vacuum on the map sensor, maybe i can come up with something tomorrow, i'll also re adjust the valve again thats an easy enough fix, thats a lot of good stuff to check tomorrow though thanks injuneer for all the help hopfully by the end of tomorrow the car will finally be running right and i can let everyone know what went wrong and why i suck so bad haha

 

Did you reprogram for the 36# injectors?

 

I hate to bring this up but the intake manifold isn't leaking around all the ports, is it? Sure sounds like you have a massive intake leak somewhere.

 

i'm going to try and reprogram for the 36lb inj today and i was going to check for intake leaks today also just in case, bought me a can of carb cleaner, also going to splice in the new map harness i've had sitting around

 

update: i put the 36lb injector tune back on the vehicle, started sprayed carb cleaner around to check for intake leak didn't notice much of a difference it idled good until it went into closed loop again, still did not want to rev up though and vacuum is still off, i replaced the connector also i do not have vacuum pump to check map sensor but something tells me the car has not vacuum because of the weak brake pedal also, going to re adjust valves now will get back to everyone later, thanks for the help again

 

another update: re adjusted the valves and same thing, sprayed some carb cleaner around and it would choke up every so often i also know that i have a slight vacuum were one of the fuel rail bolts goes... but when i was listening i thought i could hear it sucking in some air on the passenger side so i've decided to redo the intake gasket just for safe measures and while i have the intake off inspect that as well. Also when the car died out a big white poof of smoke came out the intake and the hole where the fuel rail bolt goes to. smelled like fuel jsut curious as to what could cause that could my timing really be off it makes no sense that it idles fine cold but won't rev or anything and idle is slightly rough in open loop also and by slightly i mean it bounces maybe within 100rpms of the intial idle set

 

If your intake isn't leaking and you're sure have the valves adjusted correctly (not hanging them open), and checked everything like the black hose that goes into the pass side of the throttle body for cracks, there is the possibility that your timing is off because if your cam isn't timed correctly, the valves will be opening at the wrong time in relationship to the pistons. It is really helpful to have a vacuum gauge for more than just taking a reading - it is also useful for looking for fluctuations which you would see if it was just a few open valves causing the problem.

 

The valves have to be correct if not even a little extra loose now i only did quarter turn for pre load. The intake might be leaking i'm not quite sure i heard some air sucking sound when i put my head closer to the intake like a vacuum leak but i'm not sure if that was just the air going through the maf. I;m going to the junkyard tomorrow to grab a fuel rail bolt and might as well grab a map sensor while i'm there. i might pick up a gauge at the parts store tomorrow when i grab the intake gaskets. Its an easy enough fix so i'm not to worried about it. I was thinking timing at first but i remembered the first time i started the car, after i over tightened my valves and re adjusted them the car freaking roared to life and ran real good except it wouldn't idle then it started about one more time like that after that its been down the **** hole. now that i have it idling it won't rev or stay running by itself for long. But i don't think it would be timing just do to how nice and responsive it was the first time i started it

 

The junk yards here pull all the motors and sell them as a unit, so parts are no where to be found. I would take one of the bolts to a good hardware store like Ace and see how close you can match it.