update: replaced throttle body gasket, put in some new spark plugs and my stock injectors are on the car right now but i'm probably going to put the 36lb injectors on.
car still won't rev but even with the smaller injectors it held a smoother idle still won't rev up though, when trying to give it throttle i putters backfire out exhaust and intake, i know it sounds like a timing problem but at the same time the intake backfire is inconsitent and only happens when throttle is cracked open and does not follow a pattern, i'm not sure if there is anything else to check its driving me mad

 

also some log data is

480 rpms, this was after running for a while idle got rough again
calc load 6.7%
maf(lb/m) 1.80
map("hg)23.0
coolant temp 207
IAT 118
ign adv -22.0
st ftrm1 -3.9%
lt ftrm1 25.0%
st ftrm2 -1.6%
lt ftrm2 20.3%
fuel sys 1 closed
fuel sys 2 closed
o2s11 0.725v
o2s21 .040v

obviously one 02 sensor is reading really lean and the other is reading rich but not excessivley rich right?

 

A single frame of data doesn't tell you anything about the O2 sensors. In closed loop (as indicated) the O2 sensors should be swinging back and forth rapidly between 0.0xxV and 0.9xx volts. They don't move together, because each bank is controlled independently. The O2 volts are changing 9 times per second.... you've got a snapshot of a moving target.

Auto or manual trans (determines the programmed idle speed)? Can't understand why you don't have this info in your signature. It's really difficult to help people when they don't show all the info like trans type and major mods. Maybe you have that in your original post, but it's a PITA to have to go back a page and look for the info when you've hit "reply".

Both LTFT are severly elevated, but that's what you would expect if you were running stock injectors on a tune for 36# injectors.

The thing that really srands out is the 23"Hg MAP. That means you are only pulling about 7"Hg vacuum (assuming you are at sea level and the barometer is around 30"Hg).

 

the transmission is an m6, its 23"hg at 6000ft above sea level not sure how much vaaccum that would be also though. My scanner reads live data thats just the information i was able to take a pic of before the car started to idle real rough and died on its own... Also gonna start it tonight and see if i see any arcing.

 

You're in Lansdale PA and you're 6,000 ft above sea level????????? I'd guess Lansdale is between 300 - 400 ft above sea level. Standard barometric pressure at 6,000-ft above sea level is closer to 24" Hg.

If the barometer is 23" Hg and the MAP reading is 23" Hg, it would indicate no vacuum at all (VAC = BAR - MAP). Appears you have a problem with the MAP sensor. Again, no info on the cam, which would affect MAP at idle, but there's no way the MAP and barometric pressure can be the same with the engine idling.

 

the location is out of date, i'm currently in the army and stationed in colorado springs, altitude is 6000 some odd ft above sea level here. The cam is comp cams xfi280 230/236 with a 113lsa so it shouldn't be to big to affect the vaccum the map sensor fluctuates somewhat and is normally at 23"hg upon startup, what could cause loss of vaccum and could a bad map sensor cause it to not rev at all, because even with it unplugged it doesn't change anything

 

If you're too uncaring to provide a meaningful location and a meaningful signature, I can't spend my time trying to help. Maybe some others here are more willing, but I get completely frustrated when this happens.

 

info has been changed, thanks for the help i guess anyone else willing to chime in?

 

Did you replace the burnt plug wire? It can look ok and be destroyed inside. Your injector issue needs to be resolved. If your tune is for them you don't want to put the stock ones in there. Did you test the injectors like mentioned? Have you made sure the valves are not to tight? Have you tested the o2's to make sure they are working properly? Are you messing with the tune you got from Madtuner? Lots of questions and it looks like you are not checking them as people are mentioning them or not telling us.

 

to be honest i haven't touched it at all, been busy with family life, in a good way though. I put the stock injectors on and was going to tune the pcm for it but the usb to serial adapter i believe is causing issues. I just wasn't sure if the new injectors were really 36lb or not i got them off ebay... i know not the smartest thing but they were advertised as bosch 36lb injectors. The new injectors do not leak though i pulled the rail off and check that. The wire has not been replaced but this issue was before the wire had problems i will double check it though and make sure its getting spark threw and its strong. I had a buddy crank the car at night looked for arcing which i also did not see any. Was going to check the o2s and make sure they were working properly but right when i got in to check them on the scanner the car died... I'm hoping to be able to get a look at it some more probably wednesday just was curious about the vaccuum i don't know what its suppose to be at for above 6000ft of sea level what the map should read. Might also rip it apart and double check the timing see if maybe even just a tooth is off don't think it would cause this much issue though car should still be able to rev right?

 

also besides trying to change the injector size i have not messed with the tune at all, but i plan on putting the bigger injectors back on, might take another look at the valves, thanks everyone in advance i just can't wai tto get this thing back on the road i've missed driving it so much

 

I assume you can get the part number off the injector and verify it that way.

 

got the part umber off them and they are 36lb injectors, turns out there the ones off of the supercharged 3800 series engines.

 

If the valves are too tight it would cause it not to "rev up"What method are you using?are you going 1/4,1/2 past zero lash?I believe comp suggests 1/4 turn..Did you ever replace the torn TB gasket?If you call up Summit or Jegs you can order a bbk 58MM TB gasket..

 

What is the part number? Are you sure they are the same flow rate and made to work on the the LT1's?