Loud ticking driving me crazy.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 455
From: Syracuse, NY
Well lets just say that my CM guideplates don't do as good a job of aligning the rockers to the valve stems and that the GM guideplates (would have to go look on Shoebox's website to find the PN) are supposed to do a better job. Agreed that there will always be side to side contact but a better alignment may help remove some of the noise. (I'm not saying it will, just planning on finding out 
) Misaligned rockers can translate into out of plane forces between the pushrods and the guideplates.
As far as the noise being attributable to the pushrod/lifter interface.. I'd say that is just one of the potential causes. Some people found similar noises caused by contact between the roller rockers and their valve covers for example.
) Misaligned rockers can translate into out of plane forces between the pushrods and the guideplates.As far as the noise being attributable to the pushrod/lifter interface.. I'd say that is just one of the potential causes. Some people found similar noises caused by contact between the roller rockers and their valve covers for example.
no. its not. there will always be side-to-side contact and there should not be noise from that. its when the pushrod smacks the bottom that a noise is created, and you can only imagine how it effects the geometry and valve events
and there is no stock guideplates for a lt1
and there is no stock guideplates for a lt1
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,092
From: lakeville, pa
alot of people have been having problems with the gmpp guideplates your talking about not being hardened and wearing very fast
your best bet is a set of the isky adjustable's or if need be modify the trick flows
your best bet is a set of the isky adjustable's or if need be modify the trick flows
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 411
From: ga
Motor Mounts? My 94 Z did this to me & drove me totally insane
Took me forever to find it. Lashed my lifters, changed timing chain & gears, etc...The right side mount was bad. Here's what my car would do & how to check for: The motor mount is caged in a rubber bushing ~ where the bolt passes through looks like an "I " beam on its side. When the car was first started, everything was fine, as it warmed up, the rubber heated & "Tap, Tap, Tap" started, sounded just like a stuck lifter, or maybe, maybe, a rod knock. Hotter it got, the more it tapped. How I found it ~ Had the car up on 4 jack stands, crawled under & had the girlfriend start & put in gear (automatic). (I know ~ you are not supposed to do this, but I was at my wits end...) The torque then started the tapping. Stuck a screwdriver between the metal/rubber in the motor mount and discovered the source of the tapping.
Took me forever to find it. Lashed my lifters, changed timing chain & gears, etc...The right side mount was bad. Here's what my car would do & how to check for: The motor mount is caged in a rubber bushing ~ where the bolt passes through looks like an "I " beam on its side. When the car was first started, everything was fine, as it warmed up, the rubber heated & "Tap, Tap, Tap" started, sounded just like a stuck lifter, or maybe, maybe, a rod knock. Hotter it got, the more it tapped. How I found it ~ Had the car up on 4 jack stands, crawled under & had the girlfriend start & put in gear (automatic). (I know ~ you are not supposed to do this, but I was at my wits end...) The torque then started the tapping. Stuck a screwdriver between the metal/rubber in the motor mount and discovered the source of the tapping.I might have to look at this. HUMMMMMMMMM
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,628
From: Pgh, PA
Never thought to check the motor mounts ... Something to look into. I think once I get the car in the garage for the winter, im gonna pull the covers and check for guideplate wear. If thats a no go, im going to go ahead and play with the motor mounts. The car runs strong so ....
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 117
Motor Mounts
Like I said ~ this drove me crazy. Check them when the car is hot & the rubber in the mount is soft. If you look at the design, you will see the metal center section is mounted in the rubber bushing and allows for the engine movement (twist/torque). There are two "ears" on the center section that limit the amount of rotation. When the rubber wears out, the metal section twists & starts tapping on the mount (metal to metal).
Good luck!
Good luck!
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 573
Here's a video I took before I took the motor out for a second time.
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...boveengine.flv
Here's the video from the dyno, you can't hear anything once it's reved up.
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...rstDynoRun.flv
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...boveengine.flv
Here's the video from the dyno, you can't hear anything once it's reved up.
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...rstDynoRun.flv
I'll tell you for sure that's not lifters/rockers, it sounds much deeper than valvetrain. Maybe it's the quality of the video but that' much deeper than valvetrain.
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