Chimera96

IIRC that stud goes where your auto trans or oil cooler line attaches to the pan

DrewHMS97SS

I have a ground wire that attaches to the stud on the other side of the block right next to the knock sensor that is in with the same wire bundle as the sensor. If the stud was on the side with the cooler, the wire would not reach. I have no clue if an auto is different.

ridiqls

DrewHMS97SS

Look for a ground wire on the passenger side that is in the bundle of wires that go to the knock sensor, and passenger side O2 sensor.

ridiqls

Ill look for that wire. I think the service manual does a bad job of showing the stud but it does show that there's an engine wire harness on the passenger side somewhere.

I'll have to move the stud around if the wire harness can't reach but I'll keep that in mind now thanks!

Now time to do all the front and rear seals.... At least by the end of this project I'll know how to do most of this stuff for the future it'll go easier if it's on the vehicle

DrewHMS97SS

If you haven't seen my project thread, take a look: https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...roject-885048/

If you plan on running headers, I would take the time to either wrap the headers, or wrap the wire harness where it comes down the inside of the unibody on both driver and passenger sides. I had issues with the ignition fuse, as well as melting the ABS sensor wires. I am still on the fence about wrapping my headers.

ridiqls

Sweet, I'll take a look. Hm I prob won't get headers but maybe in the future it'll be good to remember.






So what is little notch on my crankshaft?


Notch/Key on New Engine Crank



Old Engine Crank



It also had a half moon type of key in the front but I just removed it by tapping on it with a screw driver.

From the markings on the crank, the notch is BARELY past the line, maybe 1/2-1mm. If I grind it down slightly, the crank hub would fit on it as far back as my old engine did. but I'm curious if there's going to be an issue if I take a dremel to that key. My gut says no but better to ask before grinding anything on the crank.

Chimera96

Headers, IMHO, should be ceramic coated (Jet Hot) and wiring, AC/Fuel lines, hoses, etc. should be covered/wrapped in high temp heat wrap/tube/tape type of material in areas of close header

Wrapping headers certainly helps in reducing heat transfer to vulnerable parts but it keeps any moisture that occurs from hot/cooling, weather exposure (water), etc. the headers start to rust under the wrap. In dry climate areas like Vegas the headers under wrap should last longer than higher humidity/rain areas

Chimera96

That 1/2 curved piece you popped out is a "key" for a "keyed" Damper hub. Stock hub is not keyed. Many aftermarket hubs are.

If you are re-using your stock hub than don't use the key

ridiqls

Injuneer

ridiqls

Thanks, that's the terminology I needed. I was able to find another thread with pictures of how it should be.

I'm learning there are 2 keys, the inner being the crank timing gear key and the outer is not needed so I removed it.

I removed the outer key:




From the shbox picture, it looks like my inner key is not notched which is why it sits way further out from the timing gear surface. Since its supposed to notched, I will have to take a dremel and notch it back myself. I only need to notch it back 1-2mm since you can tell by the marking on the crank that the hub will sit right around where the key is sitting anyway. I just want to be safe and grind it back a few more mm so I don't have a crank that isn't fully pressed on and backs out the crank bolt.

I wish I had known this before I installed the timing cover, oil pan and put the engine back on the k-member and torqued it down. Didn't know about the keys, the service manual didn't really mention anything about it but I also didn't expect to have this hiccup since I didn't build the engine.

Well, live and learn.

Thanks for the help, appreciate it.


EDIT:

I am noticing that the crank timing key (inner key) is also not high enough there's a gap up top in the timing gear. You can see it better from a flush view here:



Now I'm not too worried about it because it's still high enough and locked into the gear, it's not like it's going to sheer off or go anywhere. But would like a second set of eyes on this.


For now, I will be running it as is since everything is buttoned up on the engine, I'm not too worried about it. But I will be saving the outer key that I removed and will notch it and re-install it as the inner timing key when I go and put in a cam and do heads later down the road.

Injuneer

Chimera96

OP

you either have the right key for the timing chain gear on backwards or the wrong key for it. It should be flush to the crank keyway so a non keyed hub could go all the way on.

If it is just a regular SBC key (not correct key installed backwards) you could just run a keyed hub using the forward key you removed. Machine shops can cut a key groove in your stock non keyed hub or you can buy a keyed hub for a stock damper.

As Injuneer references "if" you have the right key installed backwards there is little surface area actually securing the lower timing gear....IMHO I would pull the timing gear off and install correctly or put the right one in.

If it is a non notched key grinding off the offending portion...would have to be VERY careful to not grind any crank

I would post pics of the different TC gear keys and what it should look like with right one installed...but this site is not working to post pics for me anymore. It used to but for some reason has not been working for me.

ridiqls

Well I bought the long block from a machine shop with the timing set already installed so I actually don't know what kind of key was used. I understand what you mean about being backwards but the reason why I don't suspect it's backwards is because the height of the taller section would be sitting way taller. You can tell from the picture that the inner key is shorter in height than the outer key I removed.

I'm thinking the wrong key was used, but it's a half moon key that's not notched so it doesn't lack surface area. But I can't say for sure because I haven't pulled the sprocket off, just what I can tell based on looking into that tiny gap.

Thanks, I saw the shbox notched key difference picture. I'm thinking this is not the right key installed backward but just a wrong key installed (shorter half moon key) that was used with no notch at all based on what I can tell.

It looks like the crank hub would go in all the way based on this line marking on the crank. So I don't think clearance would be an issue, I would however grind down 1-2mm to be safe. I have the same line marking on my stock crank.




I don't have a keyed hub so removing the outer key would work. Just worried about the inner key.

I am going to email the machine shop to see what key was used because the timing cover, oil pan, and everything's been sealed and torqued and the engine is now on the kmember. It would suck to have to undo all that and tear into the sprocket.