well if the shop says it is external rear balanced...then your stock FW & clutch will work

You will know immediately when you start the car if there is a balance issue.

Did the shop use a donor FW or flexplate to balance it??

 

He didn't mention a donor FW but he was building a few more LT1s so I assume he knows what he's doing. He's got a pretty big shop and builds and sells engines when he's not doing custom work.

But I was thinking.. why would a machine shop need the flywheel to balance the crank if the rear is externally balanced by the flywheel itself? Shouldn't the front of the engine be neutral balanced by the shop and then you can add any stock weighted flywheel to the rear? Because a lot of people take their blocks to get machined and assembled and I don't think I remember having to take the flywheel to the shop also. But I could be wrong

I imagine you would take the flywheel if you want everything front to rear, zero balanced though

I think I'm in the clear but just curious

 

I am not a machinist nor do I balance rotating assemblies....with that said it is my understanding that a external rear balanced motor the machine shop bolts on the flexplate or FW when they balance the rotating assembly. Your shop has rebuilt a few LT1's so they should know what they are doing. The stock FW and clutch should work fine

 

 

edit nvm

 

Was installing the timing cover today and it kept rocking back and forth, not seating properly. So I took a closer look and found this:







So from what I understand based on what I read shoebox, It looks like the long pin sticking out is from a 95-97 cam but the cam sprocket/timing set is for a 94 (which is my car)

Is my assessment correct?


If so, I am thinking there are 2 options:
1) Get the 1994 cam out of my old engine and throw it in there and everything else should work including that timing set.
2) Change over to a 95-97 setup, which I will need to get a 95-97 timing cover, 95-97 timing set, 95-97 timing seals, 95-97 optispark.

Option 1 is cheaper... and if my assessment is correct.

I didn't even notice when I bought it because when you look at the engine straight on, you can't tell how long the pin is. I saw the spline in the picture and assumed it was the same as mine.

 

Actually, I'm reading that the cam dowel pin is replaceable so it looks like the only difference between my old cam and the new cam is this dowel pin. I won't have to change out the entire cam.

I'm going to take an angle grinder and shave it off to match the shorter dowel pin length tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

Yep I saw that. I could still use a 94 spline driven opti with the newer cam with the bigger hole in it right? It's not like the hole is used to driven the opti so as long as it has clearance, shouldn't it not matter? From what I can see, aftermarket cams don't seem to differentiate

 

Yes, the cam hole size can be bigger. Aftermarket cams are all of the larger hole size, so they can be used on any year and they don't have to manufacture two different cores.

 

Makes perfect sense, thank you

 

Got the timing cover on, oil pump, drive all that stuff. Torqued down the oil pan but I'm not 100% sure where the stud goes on the oil pan

I see this picture, I have the service manual but it's not clear where #83 stud is supposed to go:

Why is the picture showing the stud on top of the bolt?

I swear from my memory, the #83 stud goes into the 4th hole from the front on the passenger side but I saw this guy's video and he put it in a different location (3rd position from the back, passenger side):



I don't remember there being anything attached to this stud. Anyone can recall off the top of their head the correct position for this stud?

Hoping to get most of the accessories cake in grease cleaned and on the engine and sitting on the K-member by tomorrow so I can have it in the car by the end of the week hopefully. Waiting on the optispark cap and rotor I ordered

 

Mine is in the hole directly above the stamped 3 and the sensor.