Longtubes SUCK when they don't fit without major modification
Longtubes SUCK when they don't fit without major modification
it looks like it should go in.. but 4 hrs of header tetris and NO GO. Should I cut ALL places I need to make them fit? I may need to cut a half inch off the bellhousing, half inch out of the k member, and I still can't loosen that steering enough.



I am seriously thinking about just loosening the kmember and trans crossmember because with the 4 hrs I jacked around I could have done it and been finished



I am seriously thinking about just loosening the kmember and trans crossmember because with the 4 hrs I jacked around I could have done it and been finished
The first thing I notice is you still have the steering linkage in... its 1 bolt and it slides out, that should give you room there. The passanger side is another story. I pulled the motor mounts and jacked the engine as high as it would go and then started pushing upwards as hard as i could, it wasn't easy and car was on jackstands as high as they could go.
I undid both motor mounts when I put mine in. I was installing new poly mounts at the same time though so I don't know if it's neccasary or not, but it sure did make it easier. I was on a lift too, that helped a lot.
LOL my passenger side was a BREEZE. how in the hell do you get the steering linkage out without dropping the kmember? I already removed both bolts and it won't come apart. I had the same problem when I did the engine swap, I had to let the weight of the kmkber and engine pull the thing out and it was a bitch re-aligning it when I put it all back together
Last edited by GhostZ28; Mar 5, 2010 at 11:50 AM.
The steering linkage just has one bolt up top where it clamps to the shaft and one below where it clamps to the stub from the box and it is tight from being on there all these years, so spray some lube in there and tap it a bit and it will come off.
maybe I'm not doing it right: removing steering linkage
but I have both bolts off and tried sliding down and up, but no-go. I don't really want to force the hell outa it because how will I get it back in?
but I have both bolts off and tried sliding down and up, but no-go. I don't really want to force the hell outa it because how will I get it back in?
maybe I'm not doing it right: removing steering linkage
OK I see you got the bolts off already. I'd use some Liquid Wrench or 3 in 1 oil or other solvent oil to loosen it up. It won't be hard to get back in once it's out.
Last edited by Kevin Blown 95 TA; Mar 5, 2010 at 12:06 PM.
OKAY done. steering linkage came out after I broke it loose. The only way I could get it in was through the top. slipped right in. Now the next problem, how in the world do I tighten the bolts!? the tubes are WAY too big next to the bolt holes in the flanges. NO socket wrench will fit in any way. worse is there is no room for a combination wrench either! pics in the morning
If your using stock bolts, that won't work. Get a set of locking header bolts, I believe the head will be a smaller wrench size. On some of the bolts I remember getting like 1/12 turn at a time... turn/flip wrench/turn/flip wrench
Use Stage age 8 lockings bolts. You can use a 3/8 wrench or even an allen wrench. Best header bolts ever. A ball end allen wrench will get into tight places.
Also you might want to buy some cheapo allen wrenches that you can cut down for better clearance. Many guys also grind down the outside of an open end wrench to better get it on bolt next to the tube.
Just calm down and breathe there killer. Drink some beer and everything will start to come together. Headers are a bitch and they require creativity and some patience to get them in right. Just be glad your not putting in shorties or mids, they are even worse. My RK Sport mids were a nightmare next to my current long tubes.
Header Tetris.
I can relate to that on my right side header.
Also you might want to buy some cheapo allen wrenches that you can cut down for better clearance. Many guys also grind down the outside of an open end wrench to better get it on bolt next to the tube.
Just calm down and breathe there killer. Drink some beer and everything will start to come together. Headers are a bitch and they require creativity and some patience to get them in right. Just be glad your not putting in shorties or mids, they are even worse. My RK Sport mids were a nightmare next to my current long tubes.
Header Tetris.
I can relate to that on my right side header.
F stage 8 bolts. Screwing with the clips makes them just as annoying IMO.
I can get to almost all my header bolts with a 1/4" drive ratchet, some with a small extension, some without. The rest I get to with a wrench.
However, when I had shorties I did have to make a custom wrench (I ground it down to make it very thin - it looked like a tuning fork
)
I can get to almost all my header bolts with a 1/4" drive ratchet, some with a small extension, some without. The rest I get to with a wrench.
However, when I had shorties I did have to make a custom wrench (I ground it down to make it very thin - it looked like a tuning fork
)
I used ARP 1" bolts with a 12-pt. head and a thin-wall socket.
I just bought some from the local speed shop :/
the stockers, yeah those DO NOT work, these are all 11mm's, real skinny and are finger tight. I can start the car without an exhaust leak but they aren't torqued and I have no idea how to do it... order new bolts? anyone have a link to some with the most clearance?
no camera flash =/ and its really bright outside:



the stockers, yeah those DO NOT work, these are all 11mm's, real skinny and are finger tight. I can start the car without an exhaust leak but they aren't torqued and I have no idea how to do it... order new bolts? anyone have a link to some with the most clearance?
no camera flash =/ and its really bright outside:



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