Lifter Tick... uh oh..!! help
reamo, as in hiding the noise not fixing the lifter tick my mechanic says they will still quit.. if I put lucas in and the noise stops and its running like top (does now after 4 minute heat up) it should be fine right?
thanks
thanks
if the sound goes away I still cant pound on it??so basicaly i should just replace the lifters instead of even trying to quiet it because knowing me I will if the sound goes away.. hell it still runs like a raped ape right now
Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com for some info on oil additives,With 600 miles on the motor i would guess you just had it rebuilt,why did you cheap out on new lifters?
Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com for some info on oil additives,With 600 miles on the motor i would guess you just had it rebuilt,why did you cheap out on new lifters?
"Competition Cams # 812-16 Hydraulic Lifters for 1955 thru 1995 Small Block Chevy 283, 327,350,383,400 and 1958 thru 1990 Big Block Chevy"
most of the time, the ticking lifter just indicates that it is getting cold, and not sealing, the lucas oil helps swell the seals to make them seal. I have been running lucas oil for about 200 miles now, and my lifter NEVER ticks anymore, my motor has 145k on it, and it see's 7k RPM's daily. I change my oil about every 2k now with this many miles, and having it see high RPMs regularly, but i wouldn't think its necessary to change that often, I just like to be real preventative.
most of the time, the ticking lifter just indicates that it is getting cold, and not sealing, the lucas oil helps swell the seals to make them seal. I have been running lucas oil for about 200 miles now, and my lifter NEVER ticks anymore, my motor has 145k on it, and it see's 7k RPM's daily. I change my oil about every 2k now with this many miles, and having it see high RPMs regularly, but i wouldn't think its necessary to change that often, I just like to be real preventative.
the rockers and valves are still moving like the lifters are working 100% so i dont understand for the noise my mechanic says they will just get worse and fail... i'd fix it myself not like he would get any money for fixing it but if i can avoid it with lucas oil ill take that route and take the hail dmg out of my car
what you have is a bleeding lifter, meaning its not sealing because its getting cold and the oil is leaving the lifter, once it warms up, it seals again and is fine. youre fine running it the way it is, just don't beat on it until that lifter seals (normally around 170-180*)
you can run it how it is, and let the oil warm up and seal the lifter that way, but you will have to do this everytime, or add lucas oil and be done with it
ya i mean thats what happens is once it hits 170 bye bye tick.. my car runs extremely cool so it stays at 170 usualy (electric pump, water wetter) the only hard driving i did with it ticking is going up to 2-3k rpms (backing up and going on my street/hill) because of the big stall
well hes still doing lash called another lt1 guy out double checked each others work... he says its coming from the top of the damn heads aka springs.. they arnt cracked or broke he said maybe the head got hot and height of the spring or the geomtry or something is off... and is happening now due to it not being set currectly
remember only
700-800 miles on this motor guys
remember only
700-800 miles on this motor guys
Well all the valve trains been gone through we put new springs due to the old ones being for a solid roller... got new comp cam posi locks since the stock nuts backed off as soon as you tightened them and when we put those posi locks on about 3-4 studs on each side are bent... so all the problems have come out now the heads will be 100% and the car will be back on the street this week
/knock on wood
/knock on wood
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