477 every 6 months with 250 deductable, full coverage. I don't want to know what you think of me. Sorry for the hijack.

Z

 

hmm.. I only pay 300 for 6 months with full coverage 50 deduct. for comprehensive and 250 deduct for collision, course I don't have to worry about moose and other "larger" animals

that makes me depressed!!!! 20 tickets. 260/month. im broke

im doing a similar setup once i getta out iraq! (heads and a gm 847) i heard it sounds like a 9 second drag car on open headers! cant wait! and send me a like to the vid please. these gov computers suck and EVERYTHING IS BLOCKED !!!

 

It's possible if you have the ground and +12v wires hooked up backwards I decided to ditch the electric pump a while ago after some problems. I'm not going to trust my new $4k+ motor to one of those pieces of s***.

 

Not all of our women in South Dakota are moose. We have a couple skinny ones.

ZMAN

 

So on the CSI which wire is hot and which wire is ground?

I have a blue and a black wire coming from the pump.

Thanks guys.

 

http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/CSI...mp/Default.htm

Looking at this wiring diagram I am assuming the blue is the hot and the black is the ground...

 

black is typically the ground wire in most scenarios. i would assume the black is ground. try it and see what happens. you wont be any worse off than you are now. make sure to bleed the system again since you'll be hooking the pump up the right way this time. and you definitely should be able to hear the pump if the key is in the "on" position without the motor running.

 

Since it's an electric motor with only 2 wires. One has to go to ground and the other has to go to your power source. If you switch the wires around, you will change the direction the electrons flow, which in turn the electricity will flow the other way. But I would hook the black to ground.

ZMAN

 

Ok, Black was used as ground, blue as hot.

Using freescan my engine temp stayed around 180-200. My fans kicked on at 180 degrees F and my low coolant light came on. So I imagine the flow is now correct and it is cyling it through the block which in turn is making the low coolant light come on.

However, my gauge in my cluster shows that the engine temp is almost red, which I would assume to be like 240 degrees?? Which one is correct the gauge in the cluster or the ECU temp that it is recording to my laptop via Freescan.

 

I'd change out the sensor on the drivers side head. I am pretty sure this is the coolant temp sensor. Can anyone help verify this? They are around 12 dollars at www.partsamerica.com.

ZMAN

 

yup, drivers side head sensor is for the gauge and the sensor in the water pump is for the pcm to read.

 

Ok, figured out the problem... Needed to burp the coolant system some more and the gauge on the cluster is now fine. The ECU and the cluster gauge now match, within 5 or so degrees.

It got late here though so I didnt have a full time period to test the car out and make sure everything was running as planned.

I will take her for a spin tomorrow if everything looks good and go from there.

Thanks guys!

 

They can be stubborn at times!

 

k, good luck and have fun!