Le2 Dyno Results
Re: Le2 Dyno Results
I wish I could have afforded a set for this 383. The kit from Burns is $1500.00 and it would have cost $800.00 to have them fitted made and welded. Maybe after I get it running and save up(get an engine to build) I can get a set. I think they will improve it's performance. For now the 4/1 modified will do.
Re: Le2 Dyno Results
Originally Posted by 1racerdude
I bet I know-- Carbon Fiber Crank-- huh???
Hey,is it snowing up there yet? Sleeting and raining here and 53*.
Hey,is it snowing up there yet? Sleeting and raining here and 53*.
Bret
Re: Le2 Dyno Results
Originally Posted by Mindgame
Thou dost deal a great deal in assumption Dwayne. You know what they say about assumption right? 
BTW, what are the fastest b-bodies out there running as far as headers go?
I'm not going to knock a tri-y. The headers I'm using now are a 4-2-1, just with much longer primaries than your typical "Thorley" looking try-y.
-Mindgame

BTW, what are the fastest b-bodies out there running as far as headers go?
I'm not going to knock a tri-y. The headers I'm using now are a 4-2-1, just with much longer primaries than your typical "Thorley" looking try-y.
-Mindgame
But since when does what a dedicated race cars runs dictate what the rest of us should run? What is right on those car may or may not be good for a street car, and again he might pick up time with the quads but I think this still shows how well a "small tube" header can work even when it "shouldn't".
Re: Le2 Dyno Results
Dwayne,
The point is relative to the HP levels of the cars. The more RPM and HP you are trying to push thru a header the larger it has to be. Mindgame has a whole ton of experince with street and race cars. Where race cars are well below 9 sec range for him, I'm guessing maybe 7's NA at least thats where Comp Elm cars run.
The big difference that is going to happen here with a larger diameter tubing size will be a shift in the TQ curve up 250rpm with not much change in TQ at stall speed.
He had some great results with those headers, and hell a tri-y header in a larger diameter tube would be the way to go IMHO.
Bret
The point is relative to the HP levels of the cars. The more RPM and HP you are trying to push thru a header the larger it has to be. Mindgame has a whole ton of experince with street and race cars. Where race cars are well below 9 sec range for him, I'm guessing maybe 7's NA at least thats where Comp Elm cars run.
The big difference that is going to happen here with a larger diameter tubing size will be a shift in the TQ curve up 250rpm with not much change in TQ at stall speed.
He had some great results with those headers, and hell a tri-y header in a larger diameter tube would be the way to go IMHO.
Bret
Re: Le2 Dyno Results
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
This is in reply to Cheston's post too.
But since when does what a dedicated race cars runs dictate what the rest of us should run? What is right on those car may or may not be good for a street car, and again he might pick up time with the quads but I think this still shows how well a "small tube" header can work even when it "shouldn't".
But since when does what a dedicated race cars runs dictate what the rest of us should run? What is right on those car may or may not be good for a street car, and again he might pick up time with the quads but I think this still shows how well a "small tube" header can work even when it "shouldn't".
I just asked the question out of curiosity, sheesh! These b-body guys are a touchy bunch.

Bret is right, at some point your "good" 1-5/8" header is going to cost you power. Pumping losses and all that jazz. I'd be very interested in seeing a test though.... this 1-5/8" tri-y swapped for a good 1-3/4" on a 450 fwhp LT1.
As for the Anderson Pro-Stock ref... try finding a guy these days who doesn't run a 4-2-1 header in PS. I think they're all 4-2-1 now.
BTW, you can find very high quality merge collectors and stainless tubing from SDP Products. The prices are a touch easier on the pocket than Burns.
-Mindgame
Re: Le2 Dyno Results
I would honestly be amazed if the car did not pick up from going to a 1 3/4 header. I agree with what they are saying about the 4-2-1 headert being the better design but I think the 1 3/4 header instead of the 1 5/8 along with possibly larger collector would make the car run better even though they are a 4-1 header.
As I stated earlier, I do not claim to know it all and I am willing to learn. If Ken installs the 1 3/4 headers and runs a tenth faster, the same E.T., or a tenth slower, we will all know. Until I see this test, I will have to guess that the car will be faster.
I can see the 1 5/8 headers being the best choice on an Impala with 3.08 gears, stock coinverter and a GM 845 cam with a 6000 RPM shift point and the 1 3/4 headers being better for Kens set up. Kens set up is a lil different than most Impalas out there and I think the bigger headers are the better choice for HIS set up.
Lloyd Elliott
972-617-5671
Eportworks.com
As I stated earlier, I do not claim to know it all and I am willing to learn. If Ken installs the 1 3/4 headers and runs a tenth faster, the same E.T., or a tenth slower, we will all know. Until I see this test, I will have to guess that the car will be faster.
I can see the 1 5/8 headers being the best choice on an Impala with 3.08 gears, stock coinverter and a GM 845 cam with a 6000 RPM shift point and the 1 3/4 headers being better for Kens set up. Kens set up is a lil different than most Impalas out there and I think the bigger headers are the better choice for HIS set up.
Lloyd Elliott
972-617-5671
Eportworks.com
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